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 Message Boards » » Weird Problem...Any Ideas? Page [1]  
RyaNCSU1
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2006 Mazdaspeed 6

Happened twice today, never happened before.

Under gradual acceleration it acts like its either popped out of gear or the clutch gave out, but.....the rpms stay exactly the same as if nothing happened. Usually if either of the above happens the engine will rev because the load just disappeared. Both times it happened I pressed the clutch, pulled it out of gear the put it back in, and it was fine.

Cruise is not on.
Clutch doesnt slip normally and feels good, gears normally engage easily and make no noise.
When it happens you hear no clunk, or the normal noise associated with popping out of gear.

Any thoughts? The only thing that has changed recently is the rear caliper was replaced and the brakes were bled.

Thanks for the help.

10/20/2011 6:32:56 PM

toyotafj40s
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Caliper hanging up

10/20/2011 6:58:26 PM

baonest
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Caller ID

10/20/2011 7:24:16 PM

Dr Pepper
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buyers remorse?

So you are saying the 'direct relation' of the engine vs drivetrain isnt being 'direct' while driving? I cant tell if you are saying the clutch is slipping or wut

10/21/2011 7:36:36 AM

smoothcrim
Universal Magnetic!
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the rpms stay the same but does the road speed stay the same?

10/21/2011 10:14:45 AM

RyaNCSU1
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^rpms stay the same but the road speed drops. It acts exactly as if the transmission popped out of gear. The trick is just that the rpms stay the same.

10/21/2011 6:38:02 PM

DJ Lauren
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transmission issues make me cry.

10/23/2011 3:39:22 PM

RyaNCSU1
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ive got a warranty on the tranny but not the clutch, so I would prefer the former.

10/23/2011 6:34:29 PM

smoothcrim
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well go have them examine it under the warranty

10/24/2011 8:48:20 AM

RyaNCSU1
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UPDATE:

Not the transmission or the clutch. Started acting up again last night. Basically the engine is just stalling out. Can be under acceleration or just cruising along. Engine will lose all throttle response and starts to slow down, will drop about 3 to 4 hundred rpms then catches itself and acts like nothing happened. Happened about 7 times on a 50 drive last night.

Unfortunately there is a laundry list of things that can cause that. Thus far...
- Fuel pump
- Electrical short someplace
- Ignition problem
- TPS sensor although im told on this car that would throw a CEL

10/25/2011 7:47:44 PM

Wickerman
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I'm guessing spark plugs.. I had similar issues, wasn't so severe though..

10/25/2011 8:30:29 PM

GeniuSxBoY
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It's most likely a faulty crank sensor.

It should only be doing it if the car is warm. It should not be doing it while the car is cold.


The crank sensor works by picking up a magnetic signal off the crank that send a pulse signal to the ignition coils which contributes to your ignite timing.

10/25/2011 9:03:40 PM

RyaNCSU1
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^It has only done it while it was warm

The only thing that would make me not thing crank or cam sensor is the engine doesnt sputter it just all together quits. Its literally like you just turned the ignition off. That being the case I would think it also reduces the likelyhood of a fuel pump?

10/25/2011 10:43:50 PM

GeniuSxBoY
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My apologies, the last two words in my last post should read "engine timing" not "ignite timing"

10/25/2011 10:47:18 PM

RyaNCSU1
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Just thought of a critical point

The way it loses power. It doesn't stumble, it actually doesn't cut off despite my previous comment.
It actually acts more like you just suddenly took ur foot off the gas and just gradually slows a few hundred
Rpms until it catches. It won't respond to the throttle at that point.

Drive by wire system? Vacuum operated maybe? Are there any sensors known
For failure directly tied to these systems? I still tend to think tps although like I mentioned
I was told that usually throws a cel.

10/25/2011 11:00:10 PM

zxappeal
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If one of the position sensors goes bad or has a thermal failure, chances are that the ECU can drop into limp mode, where it'll stay until reset by the next cranking cycle. You'd experience power loss, but most likely not stalling.

If one of the sensors were to err...anything essential to proper operation of the engine, we would have MIL illumination, provided the criteria for a hard code set occurs (multiple failures within a certain timespan). If this occurs for more than a second or so at a time, then I would think that some sort of code would register. Hell, maybe it's set some soft codes that might have some insight.

I've recently seen an issue on an Olds Alero in which a similar problem cropped up. turned out that the ignition switch may be the culprit. Loss of power to the ECU momentarily.

10/26/2011 12:20:27 AM

craptastic
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I had nearly the exact same problem in my accord. Turned out to be the ignition switch. After a few weeks it got worse and eventually got to the point that it wouldn't start.

10/26/2011 3:24:04 AM

Seotaji
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Do you have a lot of keys on your ring?

10/26/2011 2:12:17 PM

GeniuSxBoY
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The ignition switch is not the same problem. I guarantee it.

10/26/2011 4:25:21 PM

craptastic
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The pizza man gaurantees it.

10/26/2011 5:03:53 PM

GeniuSxBoY
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They got it the first time I typed it, thank you craptastic.

10/26/2011 6:06:13 PM

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