So, for those who didn't catch stuff from the other post that started a month ago and is gone now. I have a 93 accord that I bought from this girl that pretty much didn't give a shit about it. when I got it the car wouldn't rev past 3500 rpm. I have since changed the plugs, the wires, the oil, the o2 sensor, got all of the fuel out and have new good fuel and reset the computer.

Now sometimes it works fine and sometimes just like that. It does it in park reverse or drive... doesn't matter. I can tell when it is going to do it becuase if it is going to work fine it turns about 1.5 times and is on and running smooth. If it is going to fail it will take a while to finally crank and the check engine light comes on just before starting point and will stay on, the car will idle rough. I have been driving it either way.

I check the codes by the way for the check engine light. It was 4 pause for 3 seconds 8 pause for 3 seconds and repeated. 48 is o2 sensor (why I changed it) and 4 and 8 are some random shit. We thought it was the cat also, but I took it out and drilled an inch hole with a 2 foot bit all the way through and it's not clogged so it's not that...

Any suggestions or questions I haven't thought of. Would like to fix it and on a budget for now...???

2/18/2006 7:42:36 PM

did you put the cat back in with the holes patched?

2/18/2006 7:48:10 PM

Sounds like a coil getting ready to crap out

2/18/2006 8:15:29 PM

Have you even popped the distributor cap off and looked in there?

You oughta bring it by the house tomorrow and let me look at it. I'll be here doing various tasks here and there.

2/18/2006 8:25:04 PM

Has the main relay been replaced in this car?
Also check if ignition coil is getting normal readings.
Also check for normal operation of the ICM (ignition control module)

Coil and ICM run $90-100 each at honda and main relay is about $45 if it needs to be replaced.

Here's what my shop manual tells me...
could be TDC/CKP/CYP sensor or MAP sensor ICM, Coil, Distributor, sparkplugs

ICM testing.
Remove distributor cap, rotor and inner cover
disconnect the BLK/YEL LT GRN, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM
turn the ignition switch ON and check for voltage b/n BLK/YEL wire and ground (should have voltage)
Turn switch to ON and check for voltage b/n LT GRN and ground. If no voltage check coil and LT GRN (BLK/WHT) wire b/n coil and ICM
Check the YEL/GRN wire b/n the ECM and ICM. Then check the BLU wire between the tach and ICM. If everythign tests normal replace ICM.
Check resistance between terminals for BLU and LT GRN wires it should be 1.1-3.3k ohms

COIL TEST

-----grove------
---A--------C--
----------------
---B--------D--
----------------

b/n A and C terminals 0.6-0.8 ohms
b/n A and coil terminal 14-22 k ohms
b/n B abd D terminals 19-25 k ohms
replace if out of range
check fo continuity b/n A and B. If NO continuity replace coil


[Edited on February 18, 2006 at 10:00 PM. Reason : shop]

2/18/2006 9:42:12 PM

That's some helpful stuff, and zx I may have to call you up on that. I actually have to see if I have any time, Sageworks is working me 12 hrs m-f so I have to do anything else on the weekend. I'll update tomorrow early pm.

yeah, I put the cat back on and left it as is. I'm going to replace it eventually, but the whole to be clear is from in to out, somewhat like a sportier cat, it just lets more air through. The reason was that someone told me the cause was too much back pressure... anyways, I feel sort of stupid for not looking in the distributor cat. I'm actually laughing at myself becuase it could be that. ??? I don't know. I'm going to do both of these suggestions as soon as I can tomorrow and update afterwards.

[Edited on February 18, 2006 at 10:21 PM. Reason : added second paragraph]

2/18/2006 10:14:12 PM

its probably not the main relay, which is basically the fuel pump relay.

2/19/2006 9:33:41 AM

^what Joel said. To a t.

2/19/2006 10:33:04 AM

Yesterday I went to advance auto and bought a new distributor and button for the center, and I went ahead and bought some new wires also (even though they checked good with a multimeter...) Turned the ignition and the same thing still happened. I let it run for a minute and cut it off and cut it right back back on and it was perfect. Let it run for a second and cut it off and back on again and perfect once again. Drove off and went to have a bite to eat, after a good 30-40 minutes and went out and it did the thing where it wouldn't crank right away, so I let it run rough for a minute and then cut it off and back on and what do you know... it worked fine.

So now if I go out to crank the car and it will be hard to crank as far as it will turn over a while ie: v-v-v-v-v-v-v-v-v-v-v-v-v-rrrroooom (I know that looks a bit retarted) anyway, then I cut it off, wait a second, and then it turns right on.

So, does this mean it's the fuel pump or fuel pump realay. I was gonna try to get in touch with you guys the other day but I've been sick as shit. Out of work yesterday and today.

I'm pretty much out of spendable money for the car for now to do any more purchases until the end of the month. Thought I'd share this progress for now and get back on it early in March.

Thanks for all your help.

2/22/2006 11:58:17 AM

just go ahead on replace the main relay...if you haven't done so yet it WILL eventually go out. In the meantime test the ICM and coil.

2/22/2006 6:26:56 PM

im thinking you have a bad connection somewhere, probably a ground

2/22/2006 7:00:12 PM

check the resistance from your negative battery terminal to the block, should be less than 5 ohms. then the positive to the starter terminal "

2/23/2006 9:07:04 AM

69 can you elaborate on the ground issue a little more... Let me share this. Since last time I posted the car has been running fine 8 out of 10 cranks, but will sometimes go bad while running (meaning the check engine light will suddenly appear and it won't rev over 3500) anyways, I was trying to give that a break for a minute and concentrate on something else like how the flasher for the turn signals is always clicking and needing to be replaced. I go buy a new one and put it in and the new one clicks all the time too. There is damage to the front of the car at the front right clear corner where the bulbs are and they don't work but there is no visible damage.

Later on I was hardwiring a radar detector. It's a nice one I've had for about a year and a half I got at best buy for about 250 and it worked fine in the 2004 corolla, but I couldn't get it to work in the honda. I checked the radar detector at the battery to see if it worked and it did so I went back in and I checked the positive where I was attempting hookup at and I'm getting 12 volts at the fuse box but I can't get a good ground.

This is when I thought back to 69's post on the ground and the issue with the flasher and the lights and the running strange with the electrical system and they seem to be closely related maybe???

2/26/2006 8:57:23 PM

W T F?
How many problems do you have with this POS?
Please list all problems you have with the car. Then buy the factory service manual off of ebay. The wiring schematics are going to be your best bet at troubleshooting. If you only need a couple of sections I'll even scan them in for you and save them as a PDF.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Honda-Accord-Service-Manual-92_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34223QQitemZ8041148639QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[Edited on February 26, 2006 at 9:34 PM. Reason : it's for a 92 but a 93 should turn up soon or even the 92 will do]

2/26/2006 9:28:29 PM

hahahahahahahaha


replace the bulb(s) in the lamp that dosent work

forget the radar detector for the moment

take a pair of jumper cables, a ammeter with alligator clip ends, and pop the hood. go around to the battery, and hook up the jumper cables, one end to the car battery and the other on your nipples, then clip the ammeter across your nipples to measure the value.

this works better with the cold weather

2/26/2006 9:30:48 PM

^ HAHAHA you'll want to put a little dielectric grease on your nipples first.

2/26/2006 9:36:15 PM

Hey, I'm trying my best here... this is a was a pos... I wish I would have taken pictures of the thing. I had a new car and bought this car last summer before I went to Europe. I sold my new car it was a 2004 Corolla, this car only cost 440 bucks and I'm learning a lot of things working on this getting it to perfect working condition. I have had almost everything out of this car and back in again and now I'm so close to it all working just like it should. When I get the final broken thing fixed on this car I will have a car that will bring a good trade in value or be able to sell it and make a great return on investment. That's all. I'll pass on the nipple clamps and lube... I do appreciate the actual help I get though just to let you know.

2/26/2006 10:26:19 PM

...

2/27/2006 8:15:26 PM

go to hondatech.com

2/27/2006 8:37:07 PM

its honda-tech.com

2/28/2006 12:04:06 AM