man i need my neighbor upstairs to do that STAT. he keeps the worst hours and his living room is right above my bedroom. shit is so loud. thankfully i sort of tune it out now, but still...
4/25/2012 1:07:34 PM
I plan on spending quite a bit of time in this thread from now on. Just purchased a semi-detached home in Alexandria, VA. First time home buyers; made the switch because we are getting way more home and a yard vs. what we got for rent in an apartment. 1200 SF 2 BR / 2BA, bedrooms upstairs with one bath, living / dining and kitchen on main floor, and finished basement with 2nd bath and laundry with walkout to back yard. Moving in this weekend. First question; does anyone have experience with outdoor latex enamel paints? We're having a shed built in our back yard but need a good durable, low-fade exterior paint without paying $40/gallon.Second question; does anyone have experience with bamboo in their yard? We have bamboo that surrounds the outside of our fence and the stuff pops up literally overnight. Open to suggestions on how to keep it from sprouting.
4/26/2012 3:21:55 PM
$40 a gallon is a decent price for good paint to be honest.[Edited on April 26, 2012 at 4:05 PM. Reason : ]
4/26/2012 4:05:24 PM
$6500 in replacement window costs next week.
4/26/2012 4:46:01 PM
^^ this.Bamboo is an invasive weed so good luck with that. I've heard the National Zoo will come collect bamboo to feed the pandas and you can write it off as a donation.
4/26/2012 8:02:32 PM
Appraisal this afternoon. So curious to see how it comes back. My neighborhood is in a pretty volatile state in terms of upward growth, so it has a pretty wide range of comps with which to compare to. Rough estimates indicate that it will come back anywhere from $20k over what I paid for it a year ago, upward to $70k more. There are comps that support at least $50k over that sold last fall, but the area has really continued to improve over the last 4-6 months in a drastic fashion.
4/27/2012 10:22:38 AM
^^^will be worth it. We spent around 5500 and it was worth every penny. who did you end up going through? [Edited on April 27, 2012 at 9:40 PM. Reason : ]
4/27/2012 9:40:13 PM
...so I need to get another bed for my guest bedroom. I have this cool looking wicker bed (queen size) in my room, but I think I'm going to move it to the guest room and get a king bed for my room. I just bought this armoir:...and I think I'm going to buy the matching bed. (my dresser and mirror aren't matching pieces, but they are very similar in color and style).As a single, heterosexual dude, can I get away with the canopy version?Here it is with no background:...or do I need the regular version?They make a 4-post version, too, but I don't really dig it as much. It looks just like the canopy version, without the canopy on top.If it makes any difference, my bedroom's ceiling is 9' around the perimeter, with a tray ceiling to 10' in the middle.
4/29/2012 2:52:18 PM
i'd go with the non-canopy bed.
4/29/2012 2:57:55 PM
To be honest, I'm not a huge fan of either. However, it could just be the matchy-matchy, boring staged rooms in the picture that are biasing my overall opinion.But as far as your question goes, I don't think either is any less "heterosexual" than the other and given the choices I would go with the non-canopy.
4/29/2012 3:52:00 PM
Non-canopy. Canopy beds are the realm of horse girls.
4/29/2012 5:06:44 PM
So I'm thinking I may switch my house from slab to crawl space foundation (construction starting soon). I hate the look of slab foundations, I'm always worried about water with slabs, I prefer a deck to a patio, I'd like to do raised bed landscaping around the perimeter (doable on slab, just extra work and still more of a water intrusion risk than crawl space), and the builder limits the hardwood flooring options for slab (<3/8" thick; won't glue or float install; this in turn greatly limits the floor choices).$2,500 to change to the crawl space (includes front porch/rear screened deck)....
5/1/2012 1:53:11 PM
they won't float install on a slab??Anyway, I'd definitely go for the crawl space. I am not a fan of slab. PITA to run cables or get to plumbing later. Plus I like having the Air Handling Unit and distribution ductwork down there as opposed to overhead.
5/1/2012 2:18:29 PM
Nah; says he doesn't like floating floors/has had "problems" in the past. And I pay the same regardless of how he installs.As far as HVAC, I think it will remain in the ceiling (I don't care one way or the other, unless someone wants to convince me otherwise; I don't like the look of floor vents is all I know). I agree with being able to update/add electric/water/etc. later... because I'll want to add electric and water to an outdoor patio that I'll hopefully be building sometime.
5/1/2012 2:49:51 PM
$2500 is worth it imo.
5/1/2012 3:02:29 PM
^^Weird. As far as the HVAC goes, I just tend to prefer floor supply. HVAC contractors generally do a crappy job of routing ductwork in houses: they run flex duct everywhere (a lot longer runs than recommended) and it's not installed properly probably over 50% of the time. Because of this the throw on the registers is often pretty weak, especially when the return filters start to load up and if your ceilings are 9' or higher. This can lead to poor mixing of the air, especially in the winter when the hot air is supplied up high.It's not really a huge deal, especially if they install the ductwork properly, but more of a preference by me when we were looking at existing houses to buy.[Edited on May 1, 2012 at 3:08 PM. Reason : ]
5/1/2012 3:07:48 PM
2-story construction or ranch style? Ranch would kinda be a six of one, half dozen of the other when it comes to air handler and ductwork in a crawlspace vs. the attic. On the other hand, 2-story with ceiling registers on the 1st floor is a pain in the ass for maintenance/future changes; not to mention the duct work is typically much less efficient thanks to flex duct that is crammed and twisted into tighter spots as compared to in a crawlspace or attic. That's just my non-professional opinion. Best of luck!!
5/1/2012 3:08:58 PM
^^^I think so as well^^I've seen some in-progress houses and the ductwork looked legit, primarily straight runs/no waste.^1.5 story (bonus room above garage) so no inter-floor ductwork (would be a nightmare)
5/1/2012 3:16:25 PM
So anyone know of good places for hardwood floors. I've looked primarily at lumber liquidators; going to look at surplus warehouse. Builder also said to checkout special effects flooring in clayton; which I may do, but their hours are shit, so I don't know if I'll get there.
5/2/2012 1:59:37 PM
5/2/2012 2:06:15 PM
So anyone know of good places for hardwood floors. I've looked primarily at lumber liquidators; going to look at surplus warehouse. Builder also said to checkout special effects flooring in clayton; which I may do, but their hours are shit, so I don't know if I'll get there.Any advice on how to do two colors on walls without a chair rail (one color below chair rail height and one above)? Wallpaper border...? Third color for the border?
5/2/2012 6:36:55 PM
For $2500, definitely go for the crawlspace provided that price includes a reasonable amount of clearance.
5/2/2012 6:50:23 PM
^+1
5/2/2012 8:40:44 PM
Any further input on that bed? So far it's unanimous--3-0 against.
5/3/2012 11:21:43 PM
5/4/2012 7:51:59 AM
I'm against. And with what ^ said. If you have a 4 post bed and want a masculine look, then you'll need to man it up elsewhere pretty well
5/4/2012 8:26:36 AM
Just depends on what kind of 4-post bed you get. I think 4-posters or even canopy can be for a guy, but ideally you want the bed itself to not have all the ornate detail like the one theDuke866 posted. Otherwise, like ^ stated, you'll kind of be forced to make up for it elsewhere.Here are some examples of 4-posters that work well for neutral or masculine bedrooms imo:[Edited on May 4, 2012 at 8:46 AM. Reason : ]
5/4/2012 8:40:57 AM
Here's my 4 Poster bed (doesn't connect like those ^)...also kinda hard to see because I hadn't installed my plantation shutters yet and there was a lot of light coming:But it's very dark wood and the posts don't go up very high. I didn't like it that much at first, but now I love it.
5/4/2012 9:57:16 AM
Yeah, I have a heavy wicker bed right now...pretty decidedly coastal decor throughout my house.I'm not all about a canopy bed or anything...just need to get another bed, and saw that as a potential that would go with the rest of the decor. I don't have anything else from that suite except for an armoire, which I don't think is even pictured. It's not a matching suite--just similarly styled stuff.
5/4/2012 3:43:43 PM
You can do masculine and coastal without being too matchy-matchy with the rest of your house. I'd pick a neutral bed (or even a white bed), like the four posters CalledToArms posted above, and then incorporate other pieces or colors into your coastal feel. If you pick classic pieces of furniture, then once you grow tired of the coastal theme, you can move on. Until then, get some masculine pieces in your room that still reflect the lighter feel of your house. You can keep the same tone in your house, without having the same style in every room. You just need a continuous flow, or something that makes sense with the rest of your house, but it doesn't have to match it.Couple of ideas for different bed styles: http://dreamdesignlive.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/c0d0cac4e600.jpg (although I would pick a different blue).http://www.mojansami.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/crateandbarrelspring2012catalogbluegreencoastalbedroom.jpghttp://yourdecoratinghotline.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/the-casting-dock.jpghttp://thelennoxx.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/3.jpg (I like the play off the coral here)http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_zk_Iv542EHU/TQwVUIxaGEI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/uPoDf19YEf4/s1600/barclay_16.jpg (Fantastic color and masculinity for this coastal room)http://media2.onsugar.com/files/2011/12/52/5/2049/20499083/67526a0a45049255_coastal_bedroom_design_B.xxxlarge_0.jpg (Skip the headboard, and put something else on the wall behind the bed)http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pgsJf8--itY/TvsgmTSW9TI/AAAAAAAA31o/F5CPnnWTd1E/s1600/13.jpg (fabric headboard, still beachy)http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7qsCqbXFz8o/Tvsgoc6_KtI/AAAAAAAA314/Ab_rVHu-tkg/s1600/15.jpg (not coastal, but I love this bed).[Edited on May 4, 2012 at 4:33 PM. Reason : added links]
5/4/2012 4:22:23 PM
Question: There is a tree in the adjacent property that has grown so much that it is now physically touching my roof. Is it my responsibility or the owner of said tree's responsibility to trim it? (it's a "common area" in our community and not another homeowner)
5/6/2012 4:05:43 PM
I'd make the hoa do it.
5/6/2012 4:23:38 PM
attempted. have sent several letters over past 2 years.
5/6/2012 9:54:01 PM
I'd start with a certified letter. This way they know you mean business and can't just brush you off. Go through your HOA covenants and find any clause(s) which clearly place responsibility on the HOA. In your certified letter give them a timetable by which you require them to act or give a formal denial of your request, else you'll be forced to pursue legal recourse. (Cite potential problems with homeowners insurance due to encroaching trees, etc.)If there isn't any statement in your HOA covenants that addresses responsibility of this type of situation, then it's probably just easier and cheaper in the long run for you to get it taken care of yourself. If they gave you trouble for taking down a tree that wasn't yours, you have your certified letter to fall back on. That's just the basic strategy I'd start with, take it a grain of salt. Good luck!
5/7/2012 8:38:27 AM
Actually, you may be the person legally responsible for trimming those limbs. You are ALLOWED to trim the limbs up to your property line, but if it doesn't grow on your property, you can't destroy it. Your other option is to see if it's hanging over a power line, then the power company will come out and prune it.But you can't compel the HOA to trim the tree unless you take them to court, and I get the impression you don't want to do that. In order to prevail, you'll have to prove to the court that the tree itself is a danger to you or your house. Not that you could have trimmed the limbs and been on your way.If you believe it is a hazard, you should take pictures of the tree, and keep a copy of the certified letter you've sent to the HOA explaining that it is dangerous. (Big limbs or the entire tree could fall, etc.) After that, if it falls or damages your property, a court would likely hold them liable for the damage. But again, you're involving the courts.
5/7/2012 8:53:57 AM
in your letter, you can threaten to pursue legal action. that'll let them know that
5/7/2012 9:16:41 AM
^Yep, you may have to go all James Scott Farrin on their asses
5/7/2012 9:47:50 AM
5/7/2012 10:17:09 AM
so...i am enjoying my new windows. even though they cost $6500 dollars.
5/7/2012 10:48:41 AM
Sounds like your HOA is run by a bunch of douche nozzles. I'd go the certified letter route as well. Then make a friend who's a lawyer and can write a strongly worded letter on their letterhead for a case of beer
5/7/2012 11:12:08 AM
finally closed on my refinancing few days ago. The whole process took almost 2 months. At least I got a good rate.
5/8/2012 8:18:16 AM
If tree limbs are touching your roof they are damaging your roof. At least get up there and trim them a little so it doesn't start raining inside your house, then you can focus on getting the HOA to handle it. When they grow back and need to be trimmed again start the process well before the limbs are touching your roof.
5/8/2012 4:57:35 PM
Anyone that has put in hardwoods:I'm trying to determine what kind of hardwood to get. I have a 50lb dog, and let's expect cats and larger dogs in the future. Even though laminate doesn't scratch as easily, I haven't found one I like the look of, and once it is scratched, there's no repairing.I'm looking through reviews and most species have reviews stating scratches easily. Are these people just dumbasses who are noticing every little scratch and never thought wood floors would scratch, or is it legit? I'm primarily looking at brazillian koa, santos mahogany, or maple select.Also, is it worth it to go with solid hardwoods? I realize you can refinish multiple times, but who really does that? Would it be better to go with engineered and save the money, have them refinished, if needed, that one time before selling? Or are people starting to refinish now?[Edited on May 8, 2012 at 5:27 PM. Reason : .]
5/8/2012 5:26:21 PM
My parents have solid oak floors in their house. They have about 20 bajillion cats and one 50 pound dog. They refinished the floors when they first moved in and removed the carpet and haven't since (been about 15 years now). I'm not even sure they've bothered to clean the floors beyond vacuuming and spot mopping. Knowing them and their laziness I doubt they have. The floors look perfectly fine to me. Probably the only thing they'll need to do when it comes time to sell is recoat the floors.I think that people who bitch about scratches in their flooring perhaps got high gloss finishes and don't understand why any speck of dirt on that sort of flooring will make it look like it's been scratched and/or dirty. My grandmother had these beautiful pine floors put in her mountain cabin, but it has this high gloss, so any time you breathed on them they looked messed up. She said if she had it to do over again she would have gotten more of a matte finish on the floors.[Edited on May 8, 2012 at 6:41 PM. Reason : s]
5/8/2012 6:41:18 PM
5/8/2012 8:14:13 PM
Man, I am about to walk on this refi. This broker is fucking awful.
5/9/2012 11:30:39 AM
^what rate did you get? Rate is decreasing now, so it might be worth your while to walk away and start over.
5/9/2012 11:44:10 AM
3.3% on a 15 Year. Everything is fine about the financials, except that this particular broker I deal with is the worst.
5/9/2012 11:58:37 AM
you could easily beat that rate right now. I don't think I would accept anything more than 3% currently.
5/9/2012 2:48:39 PM
Yeah, I was going to say that I see lots of 3% 15 years advertised around me right now.
5/9/2012 3:07:19 PM