inflate to 40? (normal 35)and what kind of fuel treatment?
5/21/2014 9:27:11 AM
6 months isn't that big of a deal. i would add stabil marine formula fuel stabilizer when you fill up the tank. do this before you park it. best to park a car with a full tank so there's less room in the tank for condensation to form. other than that i wouldn't worry about doing anything else to it as 6 months really isn't that long.
5/21/2014 10:27:17 AM
Let's pretend I bought a Ford truck that originally came with an Air Pump and other assorted exhaust gas emission equipment. Let's keep pretending that those pieces of equipment had been removed before I purchased the truck, and I didn't realize it until I took the truck to get inspected and it failed for not having said Air Pump and emission control equipment. Is it easier to try and put back in the Air Pump (and associated equipment) or find a shady inspection station that will pass me? I'm perfectly happy bribing someone.
5/21/2014 10:28:38 AM
5/21/2014 11:28:15 AM
Hah you hypotheticaled the not so illegal stuff and flat out admitted to bribery. I like this guy.I think hypothetically it would be cheaper to find a shop that does inspections and is known for performance modifications to fords with similar engines such as mustangs. And if they don't do them themselves... They might know of a shop that would. I can promise you one of the first mods to every mustang is catless headers and h pipe which would put someone in a similar predicament.
5/21/2014 11:30:50 AM
to be fair, i didn't admit to bribery, just admitted I'm open to the idea. I hypotheticaled the stuff I feel really stupid about. Thanks for the advice though, it's a good idea. Do you happen to know of any shops like you described in the Raleigh area? If not I'll just go googlin..[Edited on May 21, 2014 at 11:45 AM. Reason : shops]
5/21/2014 11:44:10 AM
I don't have personal experience with any but piedmont custom motors ports exists and may be able to help
5/21/2014 1:33:58 PM
Here's a better question about my situation.I called 2 different places in town that claim to specialize in mustangs/ford and told them about my situation. They are telling me that it shouldn't matter that there is no air pump on the vehicle since the truck is a 1990 and it doesn't have to pass an emissions test. They think the inspection people messed up and I should try with someone else. So who's right?
5/21/2014 1:35:50 PM
They probably know more than emissions testing folk.
5/21/2014 2:43:28 PM
The guys at piedmont custom motorsports were really cool and very helpful. They basically said that it just depends on who inspects it on whether or not it will pass. "Technically" the Emission Tampering inspection is part of the Safety inspection, despite directly dealing with emissions. Inspection stations that are part of chains are more likely to gig me for it, where independently owned shops will be more lenient, especially where older cars are concerned. Plus if it's going to cost me over some pre-determined amount to fix I can get a waiver from the State.
5/21/2014 4:14:19 PM
boom, passed
5/22/2014 4:32:20 PM
Is there a good way to connect a bunch of single fuel injectors together rather than a fuel rail?I want to build an intake where the injectors are all angled different directions due to the way the intake portion of the head is shaped the first runner turns hard left the second turns hard right and I'd rather have the injectors at opposite sides of the runners angled at the back of the valve which would essentially require 8 mini fuel rails unless there is a better way.
6/20/2014 7:36:20 AM
better put, methinks you need (8) adapters to connect from your fuel rail(s) to the injectors.flex line with an aluminum adapter atop each injector?
6/20/2014 8:03:45 AM
That would work I guess.Engine is a ford y block so the runners are stacked too.This is what I know I don't want it to look like.
6/20/2014 10:00:46 AM
WAS GOING TO SAY SOMETHING....then I read the text below the pic.
6/20/2014 10:12:20 AM
Debating whether to put stop leak product into my radiator. Does anyone have success using it?
6/24/2014 12:45:11 PM
^I've used it before to seal up a heater core that kept fogging up the windshield on a 90 325i, and it worked for what I could tell.Would not do it unless it's a value-less beater vehicle.
6/24/2014 12:59:57 PM
Used it on a 98 jeep once. Worked for about 8 months. Then radiator cracked.
6/24/2014 1:50:06 PM
6/27/2014 9:59:36 AM
I don't believe any of it. The air in your tires is already 78% nitrogen! It's ridiculous to think that upping that to 100% would have much, if any, effect.
6/27/2014 10:18:11 AM
If helium was more temp stable I'd be all about helium filled tires.But still think 10% would be bs.Especially not if you've run your air through an air dryer.[Edited on June 27, 2014 at 10:21 AM. Reason : .]
6/27/2014 10:20:10 AM
^^my thoughts exactly
6/27/2014 10:30:52 AM
I would like to purchase some clear film to protect my headlights.What film do have you guys used/recommend for protecting the plastic headlights from discoloration/fogging and protection from road debris/rocks/elements?There's lots of debate over a handful of thread and I'm on the fence about a couple products.[Edited on July 4, 2014 at 4:31 AM. Reason : /]
7/4/2014 4:31:02 AM
Polycarbonate lenses will fade in UV. Accept it. Polish them once a year, maintain with 303, that is as good as you will ever want them to look.Films, won't do shit to protect the light from debris. Your lights will look worse than before with a layer of fucked up film on them.If your lights are really bad, replace them.
7/4/2014 5:06:16 AM
The OEM reflectors are really bad and an upgraded set of OEM projectors are on the way. I want to protect the new set from the terrible fate of UV death since the projectors are rare and no longer available.[Edited on July 4, 2014 at 6:41 AM. Reason : .]
7/4/2014 6:30:22 AM
7/4/2014 11:36:13 AM
Best place in Raleigh to get routine maintenance done on my 2002 WRX? Will need the full run-down, all fluids, positive cable on the battery, spark plugs, and needs probably high mileage full synthetic oil. Anyone on here doing it? Or can recommend a good shop?
7/27/2014 10:35:37 PM
Turbo Time would be my suggestion, unless things have changed over the years.
7/27/2014 11:12:58 PM
Does anyone on here still do work on the side for others? I'm about to buy an old beater truck so I'd like to 1) save money on repairs/maintenance and 2) learn to do some of this myself. But I'd first like to start out by watching and helping. The current truck I'm eyeing probably needs a valve cover gasket and eventually a check of the steering components as she's a bit squirrelly. Also, any suggestions on a low price paint job? 20 year old truck... paint is rough and I just want to protect the metal....
7/28/2014 9:35:33 AM
well hell, tell us what you're looking at - [Edited on July 28, 2014 at 10:31 AM. Reason : -]
7/28/2014 10:30:55 AM
93 Ford F150 automatic5.0L2WD193k miles
7/28/2014 1:18:16 PM
^^^Yes I too recommend Turbo Time.^^probably around $500 for a decent Maaco paint job.
7/28/2014 1:18:36 PM
^^WD, wish you were closer.- Ball joints, bushings and shocks go a long way on that twin I-beam front end. - Also, if it has the dual fuel tanks be wary of the selector valve system - those are problematic.if you get it, and are passing nearby I'll give you a set of shocks - 2 NIB front's and 2 ~used rears (still tight).
7/28/2014 1:42:38 PM
^thanks; what town are you in? I'm also eyeing an '88 F150 4x4. 145k miles. Bad fuel selector but the front tank works. This guy claims that that's the only thing wrong with the truck (other than clear coat peeling). The guy with the truck above didn't say anything about steering, slight oil leak, or AC not blowing cold. I like the truck, but with 2 must-have repairs, 1 would-like repair, and a paint job in the next year or so, he's asking too much IMO. I lowered my offer to him. Oh snap, he cam eback with only $100 over my lowered offer. says he just replaced the plugs and wires this weekend and that's when he noticed the oil leak (valve cover gasket)... So...$110093 Ford F150 with automatic transmissionhas V8 5.0 liter engineam/fm cassette radioworking a/c and heatalloy rims with aluminum tool boxtruck has 193k miles+ needs valve cover gasket, loose steering fixed, and AC rechargeor$1900This truck is in Exc.Cond.145,000 milesNew carpetNew bucket seatsVery loud stereo systemNew steering componentsNew starterNO DENTSNO RUSTRuns like new4.9 in line Sixdon't smokedon't burn oilThe clear coat is peeling and could use a paint job but that's all this truck needs to make it a nice ride!!If your looking a dependable truck then you should check it out.+bad fuel selector (supposedly)[Edited on July 29, 2014 at 9:27 AM. Reason : .]
7/29/2014 9:08:11 AM
...I'd get the 6cyl.
7/29/2014 2:25:12 PM
I had a 95 F-150 with that inline 6 and a manual transmission. I loved that truck, fun to drive and awesome low-end torque. Even in 2H, it would creep up a significant incline without touching the accelerator. Only problems I had with it were self-inflicted after muddin' like a stupid kid (gummed up alternator, fried wheel bearings, etc.)
7/29/2014 4:34:04 PM
Vehicle AC systems changed over to R-134a in 93/94, right? So... what all has to be done to recharge an R-12 system with R-134a? My google search yields contradicting results.
7/31/2014 1:36:47 PM
compressor, fittings/lines, dryer.
7/31/2014 1:46:27 PM
so TEXA$, TEXA$, Texa$, texa$, or texas?
7/31/2014 2:17:34 PM
just refill it with a blended product made for retrofitting, your seals will eventually leak but if its low now they are probably already leaking anyways. you can get a few years out of it with just some blended refrigerant before the R-134a damages the seals enough to matter.
7/31/2014 2:29:41 PM
well, if a system is already low or leaking, it may be that time. This is for vehicles I'm considering purchasing.
7/31/2014 2:35:49 PM
and to close out this chapter, ended up getting a '95 F150XLT auto with the 5.0 V8.Though it's not in the tip-top condition I thought it was in What I knew...Radio doesn't work (easy fix)Recirculate air doesn't work (only brings in outside air, not a huge deal, but I think it's just a bad part on the vacuum system that should be pretty cheap, though I don't think I'll even replace it)Cracked windshield (will fix before inspection)And now the surprises...I think both doors are leaking water into the cab... and it's not something obvious like a bad door frame seal.Fender-mounted starter solenoid went bad yesterday... I could hear the solenoid engage, so I figured it was a bad starter... so I took it out and went to AAP... only to find it was working, so I bought a new solenoid just to see... and she cranks now. And the real part... I think it's got a transmission problem... though from my research it sounds like it just may be the torque converter. From my research, people say either to replace it to fix, or drain and add modifier/different transmission fluid. I couldn't really figure out the entire solution. My only concern is if driving as is will cause additional damage to the TC and/or to the transmission itself... ? So anyone have any input/ability to take a look? If not, then to the shop I go I guess.Oh yeh, symptoms: shuttering mostly around 45 under light-moderate acceleration, though will do it in the mid 30s up to 50s. Every now and then there will be a semi-hard shift in those same speeds or higher. [Edited on August 4, 2014 at 1:07 PM. Reason : didn't do shit like that during the test drive ]
8/4/2014 1:03:10 PM
welp
8/4/2014 1:51:20 PM