it's not normal for your heating / ac (outside) unit to frost over is it

it's about 11 months old

not the grill, fan, or internals, but rather the outside of the box sometimes gets a layer of frost/ice

none of the other ones ive seen around do this

[Edited on January 13, 2009 at 11:13 AM. Reason : e]

1/13/2009 11:09:43 AM

Mine did that when it was fucked up. I think there was freon leak or something.

1/13/2009 11:33:29 AM

This happened last week:



and now there is some kind of critter in the attic, we can hear it gnawing at night.
We put a trap up there last night, so hopefully we will catch something

1/13/2009 11:58:57 AM

^^^yeah, sounds to me like it needs freon. The hoses freezing up could mean that it is leaking freon, or that it just needs to be recharged.

1/13/2009 12:01:46 PM

Or it could be your coil is fucked up and it's gonna cost you.

1/13/2009 12:56:06 PM

well it's a heat pump, and after asking around it appears as if that's kinda normal?

but the defrost cycle may not be working appropriately

either way i guess it's time to give the repair dude a buzz

1/14/2009 9:51:35 AM

that's what mine was doing all last winter


and you know what the result of that was

1/14/2009 12:28:12 PM

So our house is now under contract - took 4 months in this market but I got one.

We only had 2 showings the entire time.

Inspection was Monday and they found "minor" items I am told. Crossing my fingers.

1/14/2009 2:19:04 PM

they alwyas find SOMETHING

1/14/2009 4:47:47 PM

Ohh I know - wouldn't you be pissed if you paid someone $400 to say "Looks good to me!"

1/14/2009 5:30:33 PM

more than likely it will be doors sticking, not catching, etc.

congrats on the contract. mines been listed for six months.

1/14/2009 5:31:00 PM

well i bought a foreclosure so it was more like...ur water heater is almost dead and theres a hole in the wall in the garage.

still in pretty good condition for the price i paid.

1/14/2009 8:22:51 PM

I paid $400 for him to tell me a few valid items and give me a huge list of things like:
- Garage door sensitivity too high (it would crush a small child without stopping)
- Water heater too hot...Will burn flesh.
- Handrails loose.
- Toilet loose.
- Drain doesn't completely stop up tub.
- etc...

And I was like "pshhh...I can fix that stuff in a day." To date I think the only one I've done is the garage door and that was because I was up there programming a new remote anyway.

1/15/2009 1:33:21 AM

^ Yeah - I am assuming that's the case.

I have lived there 5 years so I know all the little quirks - it's just how much they will bother a buyer is the issue. I have lived with many myself.

1/15/2009 2:06:43 PM

They probably won't bother the buyer at all, but that doesn't mean they won't make a big deal about it and ask for $2000 off. I know I did.

(Not really though. It was an older lady and I told her I wasn't worried about the little stuff.)

[Edited on January 15, 2009 at 4:27 PM. Reason : l]

1/15/2009 4:26:54 PM

Just got the request from the buyers agent.
Here is a cut and paste:

Quote :

" Home Inspection - From Page 7 Summary Buyer request seller make the following… 1. Un stick and ensure proper operation of all windows in the home. 4. Repair or replace both outside faucets that are leaking. 5. Repair or replace faucet in ½ bath 1st floor. 7. Replace dimmer for proper operation as a 3 way switch/dimmer. 11. Replace missing insulation. Page 10. Cable noted as laying on top of ground…have utility company who it belongs bury it. Pest Inspection – Evidence of untreated infestation in siding behind stoop. Buyer request whole house be treated for termites. Pest company will not offer bond/protection unless the WHOLE house is treated. Repair damaged siding and any damage behind siding as a result of this infestation. "

1/15/2009 6:01:44 PM

put our place on the market today. gonna cost me 20K at closing but i have found some awesome foreclosures that i can buy 100K under market value. so the 80K net in the end makes it worth it. but let me be the first to say PAYING some one to buy your house sucks!

1/15/2009 8:26:18 PM

How is it going to cost you?

1/16/2009 9:04:36 AM

I'm guessing he's offering a cash incentive to the buyers.

I did this as well in my negotiations, but ended up not having to do it when it was all said and done.

1/16/2009 9:46:26 AM

I'm looking at buying a townhouse. Let me know if you have experience/stories about any of the following:

-removing popcorn from ceiling
-bathroom remodels
-doing SOMETHING with a shower stall
-replacing sliding with french doors
-fixing/replacing a 6" section of molding

2/3/2009 7:45:13 PM

removing popcorn ceiling is rather easy, just laborious. spray with water, let sit and then scrape off.

removed a shower stall, tiled it in and moved the shower head into the ceiling. rainfall = awesome.

haven't removed a sliding door yet.

2/3/2009 9:52:53 PM

Quote :

"-removing popcorn from ceiling"

I have never done it, but supposedly it is fairly easy, however messy. Google should provide pretty good instructions dealing with a garden sprayer and a sheet rock trowel.

Quote :

"-bathroom remodels"

This is a loaded question. How much are you thinking about taking on? Flooring? Tile? New fixtures? Rebath is fairly reputable and they offer a wide variety of scopes of remodeling.

Quote :

"-doing SOMETHING with a shower stall"

See above.

Quote :

"-replacing sliding with french doors"

On a scale of 1 to 10 on the difficulty of a remodel, 1 being painting, 10 being an addition, this is around a 4 or 5. Your comfort level dictates if this is something you want to take on. If it is not installed correctly, water will be an issue. AND you have to be sure you buy the right door (size, rating, etc.).

Quote :

"-fixing/replacing a 6" section of molding"

Interior or exterior? If it is interior and the townhouse isn't 100 years old, you should be able to find a duplicate molding. That is the hardest part. Other than that, a handsaw and a couple of finish nails should be all you need.

[Edited on February 3, 2009 at 9:59 PM. Reason : .]

2/3/2009 9:58:58 PM

Awesome. Thanks Won, thanks Marshall.

The tile and all in the bathroom is adequate, but there are some seriously dated sinks/vanities and the shower stall in the master bath is not to my liking. I don't know whether to go bath fitter or try to knock out a wall to put in a tub. I'm OK with using the full bath down the hall too. I like DIY sewing/upholstery and carpentry, but water stuff is a can of worms I'd rather let someone more experienced deal with.

My dad is really handy so if I can lure him over with food I think he can take care of the french doors. Molding shouldn't a be problem either.

Anyone have comments on front loading washers?

2/4/2009 6:12:03 PM

I see no point in front loaders. That's just me though. I purchased a top loading washer that is almost as efficient and better at removing dirt. No agitator in the middle either, so less stress on your clothes.

There are less options for that though, since everyone wants a front loader. Plus they can sell you those washing machine stands.

There's the rub. It's gentler on your clothes, but doesn't get them as clean. They are also more expensive. I've never used one that didn't take forever to wash something. The newest models are better about that, but the first and second gen front loaders SUCK.

I'd recommend one with a water heater built in. I sanitize whites and bedding and keeping the water heater turned up all the time is waste of money.

I do use a washing machine cleaner every couple of months. If you don't have whole house water filtration, this is a good idea, as it removes organic and mineral residue that builds up inside the tub/basin.

Leave the door open after you finish a cycle to prevent mold. Wipe the gasket around the door with a light detergent and water.

2/4/2009 9:41:01 PM

oh boy-- had an almost serious issue on my hands!

the tile between the toilet and vanity in the spare bathroom was cracked so i called the builder to fix that shit since i have a 1 year warranty

they take the toilet off and set it in the tub and the plumber comes a few days later and tells me he cant install the toilet bc the flange is way too below the tile and it needs to be flush or a little higher than the tile

whoever installed that toiled put a good 3-4 inches of wax in place and pretty much the first time i would have plunged that toilet, it would have busted the wax and started a leak that could have collapsed my second floor

dude had to order the part and all this stuff-- finally 2 weeks later its finally finished. he told me he had to use 2 extensions. i had him check the other toilet upstairs to be sure and that one was fine

just jeez, either me or the person who lived here after me would have had a cluster fuck on their hands if it wasnt for that cracked tile

[Edited on February 4, 2009 at 11:37 PM. Reason : sdkfdjf]

2/4/2009 11:32:56 PM

that happens more often that you think.

usually from when people DIY and are dumb about it. those extensions are CHEAP - like <$5 a piece.

why don't people think to raise the level of flange?

[Edited on February 5, 2009 at 9:02 AM. Reason : d]

2/5/2009 9:01:50 AM

The sad part is it sounds like the builder built it NEW like that. That would be something I would think an inspector would catch between the flooring being installed and the toilet being installed.

That is pretty shitty of the builder (or the plumbing subcontractor, in this case) to do that.

Realistically it probably happens a lot though. Instead of running to the part house and getting the "correct" material, they just finished the job and moved to the next one.

2/5/2009 9:08:12 AM

I had to check out my water heater last weekend because the thing was only giving really lukewarm water, leading me to think it was a bad element. Apparently the top element thermostat was jacked to the max so that the bottom never ran to heat up the bottom part of the water. But more importantly the seal had gone bad around the bottom element and its wet down the side of the tank and rusting away. Had to go get a new one, and since its one of those damn tabletop units and I currently have nowhere else to put a hot water heater, it cost me $400 to get a new heater and my grandfather and I are going to put it in this weekend. Ugh.

2/5/2009 9:36:49 AM

Quote :

"That is pretty shitty of the builder (or the plumbing subcontractor, in this case) to do that. "

it was the plumbling subcontractor and i let the builder know

i also let the builder know they were paying for the plumber to pull up the other toilet on the second floor to make sure it was installed right

2/5/2009 2:50:32 PM

Quote :

"There's the rub. It's gentler on your clothes, but doesn't get them as clean. They are also more expensive. I've never used one that didn't take forever to wash something. The newest models are better about that, but the first and second gen front loaders SUCK."

That was my experience with them. I spent a week and some with my aunt when she was having a baby and her front loading washer took an hour to process a small load! If my clothes need a gentle touch I hand wash.

2/5/2009 6:33:21 PM

My parent's washing machine is my standard for excellence and efficiency.

Top loader, extra large capacity, lots of washing options, purchased in the late 80's, still works and looks brand new.

Cleans and dries clothes in no time. I haven't been able to find a set that is as solid or as fast.

I will steal it from them when I get a chance and give them my top load super efficiency washer set.

They will never know...

2/6/2009 8:30:03 AM

Quote :

"also i am glad i don't have a fireplace anymore. i hate them with a passion. "

Oh man, I like fireplaces. The wood-burning variety, not the gas-log variety.

Of course, I'm thinking from a rental perspective. Why are they a pain from a homeowner's perspective?

2/6/2009 11:11:41 AM

Some houses I looked at had them placed in horrible areas, like in the middle of the room where I'd want my TV instead of in the corner.

2/6/2009 11:19:38 AM

^ i noticed that too. dumb as hell. i dislike fireplaces for that reason also. terrible placement. also not many people have a chimney liner installed either, kinda important if you are gonna use it a lot.

2/6/2009 12:37:46 PM

mine's located in the corner and with the room setup its a pain.
would prefer it in the middle of the wall so tv could go in corner

2/6/2009 12:42:01 PM

Uh... Put the TV over the fireplace... You should have replaced that bigass CRT long ago.

(General statement for those with fireplace where TV should be...)

[Edited on February 7, 2009 at 9:27 AM. Reason : *]

2/7/2009 9:26:36 AM

TVs over fireplaces are a confusing focal point and you usually have to place your TV too high for it to be viewable.

2/7/2009 10:11:55 AM

Thank God for home warranties...

My heat pump decided to start making really bad noises Wednesday night. Got so bad that I had to cut off the heat and put 2 comforters on the bed to stay warm. Called the home warranty company and a guy came out at 7:30 am. 2 hours later and it is up and running again.

Total cost....$70

What it would have cost without the home warranty....probably over $300

2/7/2009 10:12:18 AM

I'd put my tv over the fireplace if I had the money to replace the tv at the moment.

And still like Sonia said, the viewing angle would be too high.

[Edited on February 11, 2009 at 9:42 AM. Reason : ^^ nice start to the day knowing you saved a bunch of $texas]

2/11/2009 9:41:32 AM

I purchased my very first house and closed on Feb 29th of 2008.

Therefore, this costs me $7,500 in the tax credit/loan.

Sure it's a loan, but it was interest free, and that would have been nice to throw at my mortgage.

Still not sure why the entire 2008 doesn't count towards purchasing a home in 2008, but then again maybe that's why I'm not the president since I don't understand that.

2/18/2009 12:11:30 PM

I doubt he understands it either.

Quote :

"also i am glad i don't have a fireplace anymore. i hate them with a passion."

poor placement and poor build quality. a lot of the places i'm looking at now don't have chimney liners nor do they have a good flue that won't suck out all the heat in your house.

also for wood burning fireplaces, having a catalyst or a fan that blows the warm air into the room is a fantastic addition.

i honestly would rather have a wood burning stove, if I were forced to choose. great way to heat the house in an emergency and puts more heat into the room.

[Edited on February 18, 2009 at 12:42 PM. Reason : also it's better than a regular fireplace when it comes to air leakage.]

2/18/2009 12:38:59 PM

^^ I missed it by 9 days.

irritated too, I am

2/18/2009 4:21:01 PM

Just had our termite guy come out for his monthly inspection, and he informed me of a new bill that was recently passed in NC that requires all crawl spaces to have 100% moisture barrier coverage now instead of the old 80%. Has anyone else heard this?

They apparently have a service to come in and remove the old barrier, place a new barrier down (tacked down to the ground so it will not shift while someone is on it) and tack up any loose insulation for $300.

1) Is this new bill legit? I can't seem to find anything online about it (or really where to look other than google)
2) Would this be on new construction only? Or would all existing homes that are put up on the market be subject to this, and be required to fix this during a home inspection?
3) $300 sounds like a lot for this, but I sure as hell don't want to crawl around under the entire house doing that job...I'll probably call for some other estimates first

2/22/2009 9:24:42 AM

^sounds like some bullshit. you may want to call a home inspector or the department of the interior (I believe) to find out if its a scam

2/22/2009 10:52:06 AM

^^ sounds like BS to me.

Ask them to cite the ordinance
Also, when these things change, they typically only apply to new construction.

If it applied to all existing homes, think of the thousands of existing homes with low income residents who couldn't afford the upgrade. It just wouldn't make sense.

they're trying to hustle you.

2/22/2009 11:59:21 AM

Quote :

"R408.2. Ground vapor retarder. Requires full coverage ground vapor retarders for all wall vented crawl spaces. Wall vented crawl spaces shall be protected from water entry by the evaporation of water from the ground surface. A minimum 6-mil (0.15 mm) polyethylene vapor retarder or equivalent shall be installed to nominally cover all exposed earth in the crawl space, with joints lapped not lessthan 12 inches. Where there is no evidence that the groundwater table can rise to within 6 inches (152 mm) of the floor of the crawl space, it is acceptable to puncture the ground vapor retarder at low spots to prevent water puddles from forming on top of the vapor retarder due to condensation. The floor of the crawl space shall be graded so that it drains to one or more low spots. Install a drain to daylight or sump pump at each low spot. Crawl space drains shall be kept separate from roof gutter drain systems and foundation perimeter drains."

From: http://www.ncdoi.com/OSFM/Engineering/BCC/Documents/Minutes/040914c.pdf
That's the full text regarding requirements for crawl spaces in NC.

What ^ said is correct, though, as they don't require existing homes to upfit to meet the new code, unless you're, say, upgrading a certain system. For example, when my old water heater got hauled out of this shithole of a condo, the new water heater was required to have a pressure regulator (something like that, I don't remember exactly what they called it, it's Raleigh or NC code). The old one didn't have one, but the new one was required to because they were installing all-new equipment (and all-new equipment has to meet the new code, of course).

I don't see why you'd ever need to replace your moisture barrier in your crawlspace for any maintenance, unless it just pissed you off cause your house felt damp inside (or the termite guy is going to screw it up when working down there and new stuff will have to be installed).

2/22/2009 12:57:38 PM

^^^^monthly terminte inspection? i have only ever heard or annual inspections. if you are paying more for the monthly inspection, they may be trying to hustle you on that as well as this moisture thing.

2/23/2009 6:13:29 AM

Thanks for the quick responses all.

I'm going to call the guy that did our home inspection when we bought it and see if he's heard anything about it as well, to see if it will be an eventual fix if I attempt to sell the house.

Thanks again.

2/23/2009 8:04:35 AM

^^ Yeah. I just do a yearly inspection.

2/23/2009 10:39:54 AM

not sure what the underside of your house looks like but for $300 to put down a new thick mil plastic and re-tack the old insulation for $300. I'd say have at it.

2/23/2009 4:31:08 PM