I'd just drop the trans and make sure that shift fork is still properly installed. The fork and spring assembly isn't very intuitive, imo
10/26/2014 10:28:24 AM
^ That would also be my guess. The fork, the pivot, the throwout bearing, something in there.
10/26/2014 8:01:40 PM
10/27/2014 9:14:26 AM
First drift event went smoothly, made it out there and beat on it for a while and back home with no issues. Actually was able to slide it with the clutch going out on me. Short iphone/gopro clip:http://s325.photobucket.com/user/elhefeglass/media/piedmontboth.mp4.htmlClutch job is next on the list I'm waiting for the epoxy for my floors first
11/23/2014 1:22:49 PM
Why not reply to myself.. Installed the 6 puck clutch. Works great, will definitely take some getting used to. Calls for 500 miles for breakin but I don't get to drive this car enough. Hopefully I can get enough miles in before jam 3rdAnyone have experience breaking in a clutch?[Edited on December 21, 2014 at 10:16 AM. Reason : that crunched frame rail ][Edited on December 21, 2014 at 10:21 AM. Reason : random pics][Edited on December 21, 2014 at 10:22 AM. Reason : .]
12/21/2014 10:13:19 AM
pretend you're riding a 125cc 2-stroke MX bike out on a tight, woody trail.
12/21/2014 10:21:28 AM
that looks much safer than my transmission-teeter-tottering-on-a-floor-jack-cup methodsome guys say they just bench press the thing into place, ha[Edited on December 21, 2014 at 11:41 AM. Reason : ]
12/21/2014 11:41:48 AM
a friend and i had the transmission in place day before yesterday using our arms and a jack but were unable to get the tranny to fully slide in. I thought it was because we couldn't line it up properly holding it with our arms. Turns out the plastic clutch alignment tool included with my clutch had a lot of free play and the clutch wasn't perfectly aligned. After buying the tranny jack we still had some issues..after i realigned the clutch, it went in smoothly. Still happy i got the transmission jack, it will definitely come in handy again or if anyone needs to borrow it
12/21/2014 11:58:57 AM
it's all fun and games until your jack's not got enough reach (truck) and the jack with trans attachment is 'too high' to easily get the trans up on it to get in position
12/22/2014 12:01:18 PM
I’d always made do without tools (didn’t have money in college but still wanted to play with cars), used to install transaxles without a jack. I still think it was one of the things that helped with being in shape as I didn’t do any resistance exercises/gym stuff. Anyway, much more straightforward with a transmission jack, and the strap is a good idea. Especially if things don’t align. BTW, garage floor looks great.
12/22/2014 9:55:33 PM
^thanks so today I finally got around to replacing the passenger rear LCA ..which was bent/cracked from before i bought the car. couldn't get the knuckle off of the arm,..so i replaced both together, got parts off the other s13 i bought the other week. now i can finally get an actual alignment
12/26/2014 3:18:46 PM
12/26/2014 3:19:57 PM
drift even saturday who's comin?!
12/31/2014 2:49:23 PM
Whatcha doin with that old control arm?
12/31/2014 2:57:25 PM
I might would like to spectate saturday. details of when/where?
12/31/2014 5:21:33 PM
^^i think for now I am going to put it in the other shell so i can still roll it around and move it. I was thinking of ordering some aftermarket arms but most people say to stick with the stock stamped pieces so theres something to bend if i hit anything^definitely come! its fun as hell even if you are just watching. Also all day ride alongs are 15 bucks i think (10 for spectating and 5 for riding) bring a helmet!Its at piedmont dragway6750 Holts Store Rd.Julian, NChttps://www.facebook.com/events/1503204263280403/[Edited on January 1, 2015 at 8:45 AM. Reason : ..]
1/1/2015 8:43:39 AM
Ok if you decide to trash it or something I wouldn't mind grinding out the damage and welding it back for practice.I'd give it back to you if you want but I don't know if the heat would make the part brittle.
1/1/2015 11:49:44 AM
^ for sureif not i maybe have some other stamped parts that i am not using that you could play with
1/1/2015 6:35:40 PM
Unnngggghhh..stay tuned
2/20/2015 12:49:08 PM
hella
2/20/2015 12:59:14 PM
..maybe another spacer in the rear. [Edited on February 20, 2015 at 3:26 PM. Reason : N]
2/20/2015 3:24:56 PM
Looking awesome-possumpreparing for a rear diffuser? sa-weet!
2/20/2015 5:53:51 PM
Man that thing’s so hot! <3
2/20/2015 6:31:13 PM
I want to get a 240sx and have glasssssss mentor me in how to make it cool.I'm dead fucking serious.
2/20/2015 7:55:35 PM
Don’t forget the other guy, and get in line lol. Those two cars are doin’ it right.
2/20/2015 8:17:44 PM
for some reason I thought it would be a good idea to back the car out for some pics.....it slid down my driveway and after trying for a while I slid it next to the curb and there it will sit till my ice skating rink goes away. At least I got some pics ..
2/21/2015 2:22:48 PM
Let me know if/when you decide to sell it....
2/21/2015 3:27:34 PM
put on new springs (changed from 10k/8k to 8k/6k)difference in grip is night and day.. Car doesnt even want to spin in 2nd now ( i have mixed feelings about this )also replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump sockinstalling tomei for tomorrow
3/11/2015 12:58:17 AM
I did an alignment on my car. Set some negative camber in the front to help reduce the pushingI still have an issue when randomly the car seems to hit fuel cut. Typically after I spin the tires and it revs up quickly under low load...next time I hit the gas it will cut in the middle of accelerating.(this is a poor description of what's happening) I have replaced my tps, fuel pump, fuel filter, pump sock, and I'm about to replace the regulator today. Checked my harness and grounds with a multimeter to make sure there were no problems. Need help figuring this out. It doesn't happen all the time. Normally when I get to a drift event it will happen during the first run of the day and after that it won't happen again. Really baffled...if anyone can off any help or can come check it out I have some beers for ya
3/13/2015 10:33:07 AM
spark plugs to 0.025"fixed my cutting-out issues
3/13/2015 4:38:50 PM
pmed this to tchenkuposting the same here in case anyone has any inputfirst thing i tried was replacing all of the plugs..gapped them to .028 (would reducing gap further to .025 make a difference?) this problem started after removing the transmission and doing the clutch. And it only occurs sporadically what does spark blow out feel like? when this happens its normally right after spinning in first or second (car revs up quickly under lightish load, no problems..i let off and switch into the next gear, car will then buck or hesitate when i reapply the throttle pressure...then sometimes kicks in again, but i normally let off the pedal right when it happens bc it scares the shit out of me)when it cuts it goes completely lean on the wideband..as if it has a fuel delivery issuei thought i found the problem when i noticed a loose ground connection but that didn't fix it..also thought i fixed it when i found a broken wire at the neutral position switch on the tranny..didnt fix it either. i need helpits driving me crazy(the problem isn't easy to show someone...which makes it a real pain. jawhitak took two runs in my car and didn't encounter any hesitation issues)
3/13/2015 5:24:39 PM
Take a datalog of the problem occurring. How do you know you aren't hitting an actual software fuel cut? What is the commanded injection pulsewidth when you feel it cutting out? In NismoTronic there are hard rev limiters and a boost cut/MAF load cut. What is the most current list of mods done to the engine? What's your MAF configuration, how are you controlling boost, what is the NismoTronic controlling?
3/14/2015 12:56:22 AM
I am having a difficult time getting the problem to happen while recording a log..i have captured the issue once and it corresponded with the TPS showing some strange voltages, which is why i replaced the TPS with a new one. i have the rev limiter set at 7200, this issue happens much earlier..usually in boost transition area..3000-4000) i have the maf cut set higher than the maximum maf load it has seen during wot run. boost is controlled by a MBCmaf is a z32 mafinjectors are 550cc 2871r turboThis setup has run fine for a while...the only thing that was changed before the issue started happening was the clutch. Im wondering if i possibly disconnected a wire or broke a connection somewhere when removing and reinstalling the transmission.when the weather clears up i will make sure i get the problem recorded in a log [Edited on March 14, 2015 at 12:27 PM. Reason : thanks ]
3/14/2015 12:26:35 PM
how do you know you're not getting a boost spike sometimes and hitting MAF load cut? MBC's like to do that. I could be barking up the wrong tree here but those things are very hard to get consistent with weather changes. You could set your MAF load cut to such a high number that it is basically disabled, but then you could be risking the engine.The Nismotronic can control a boost solenoid, and it has air temp and gear compensation. You can buy a solenoid for like $40. It's really simple control logic in there and won't be hard to tune.[Edited on March 15, 2015 at 10:02 AM. Reason : post the one datalog you have to google drive]
3/15/2015 9:55:46 AM
fixedbad maf groundof course, till it comes backreplaced several good parts in this fiasco [Edited on March 19, 2015 at 4:47 PM. Reason : finally got a log of the issue, maf voltage was erratic..sometimes 0v]
3/19/2015 4:46:23 PM
Intermittent problems are the worst, especially on a car like yours that is only used a handful of times a month... MAF ground eh, keep us posted. I’m crossing my fingers lol
3/19/2015 10:58:29 PM
yeah that's why i ditched the subie... had it not started having electrical issues i'd have kept that shit till i die.
3/20/2015 7:22:40 AM
Took a while to get the problem in a log. Car started acting up on the way home the other day, I pulled over and started recording a log. maf voltage was dropping to 0v
3/20/2015 2:30:17 PM
Of course you realize that a bad ground isn’t the only way the MAF voltage could read zero... BUT, assuming you found a bad enough bad ground, I’m hoping you’re right lol
3/20/2015 5:11:51 PM
probably a squirrel in there chewing on the wiresgets stressed when you really get on it, chews harder than normal, voltage drops to zero
3/20/2015 6:26:34 PM
turned out to be a loose connector
3/20/2015 7:03:15 PM
sorry if this was mentioned somewhere else in the thread, but somebody else modified the harness for the swap right?Unwrap the harness and redo all the MAF wire splices/extensions/solder joints done in its life. Did somebody ever wire up an SAFC on there or something? When it comes to wiring, the modifications done by hand are the most likely part to fail.
3/20/2015 7:04:23 PM
there was a safc installed..i think i cleaned up all the wires when i removed it, desoldering and soldering some that needed fixing. Those splices were one of the things i checked yesterday and didn't see anything suspicious..the harness isn't modified other than where the safc was installed (as far as I know)i was considering buying a new (wiring specialties) harness and that little harness splice plug thing so I wouldn't have to mess with the actual harness
3/20/2015 11:01:29 PM
Dug back through the thread and I see you have a Wiring Specialties harness, rather than the stock harness that was modified by some previous owner. This is a money vs time & frustration situation. You really have to ask yourself, Here are your options as I see it:You can get another MAF (Z32 I'm guessing) and see if that makes it go away, although I'd say it's below 50/50 chance it will. Your options include something from RockAuto (~$150, I checked), another used one, or a brand new OEM one (~$500). I would try the used one because of the low cost involved.You can pull the harness from the engine, unwrap it and check everything, then put it back in and make sure you clean all the grounds and hope the problem goes away.You can pull the harness from the engine and buy another brand new Wiring Specialties harness, the pro one with all the features, and then clean all your grounds and install it. http://www.wiringspecialties.com/wisppros13sr.htmlYou can adopt a speed density solution which depending on what route you go could be a lot of time at minimum and possibly a lot of money, and could still not fix some underlying wiring gremlin.So where do your priorites lie and what risk do you want to take? Do you want to risk wasting time and possibly a lot of frustration or wasting money? The risk with replacing the harness with a new one is that it doesn't fix the problem, but you still get the peace of mind.If it were me, I'd buy a new harness pro Wiring Specialties harness and a new MAF from Rock Auto because I think that has the highest chance of success with minimal frustration. That's because I don't consider chasing down wiring gremlins to be a fun challenge. It's a war of attrition with the car that wears out your appreciation for it and makes you want to sell it. Here's one situation I can share with my 1988 Rx-7 Turbo project:Those cars go through a lot of owners and they tend to swap around crank pulleys and such on the engine. On that engine, the crank pulley comes in two pieces, and the two pieces have to be matched from the same engine or the timing marks will be wrong. 80s Rx-7 owners are cheapasses so they try to make their own timing marks and find TDC on their own (not easy to do precisely on a rotary as it doesn't go up and down). This is fine for an n/a engine but it's a big risk on a turbo, where a couple degrees of spark will blow your engine up.So I called up an Rx-7 friendly dealer and ordered a new crank pulley which would have guaranteed correct timing marks. I think it was like $200, which seems absurd for something you can get used for $10. But I wasn't buying a pulley. I was buying peace of mind. I was buying my sanity. And it was worth every penny.[Edited on March 21, 2015 at 7:19 AM. Reason : one thing I've learned - jumper harnesses are fine, but minimize cutting of main harness]
3/21/2015 7:16:45 AM
so quick update..it was a DYING maf sensor...hard as hell to diagnose..it would act fine until it got an extreme voltage difference then it would go nuts (sometimes)..had a couple extra z32 mafs sitting around so I tried one and the car wouldn't even idle (voltages were way off)..next one idled great, no need for any changes in the tune. Car hasn't stumbled at all since changing..i have driven many miles and to a drift event, flawless thanks for the help and advice guys!!things I have gotten for SR20det 240 recently, finally got a racing seat installed..sat a little high so i had to weld it to the rails and its about right nowa friend and I made a bash bar/bumper support for the rear of my car:finally done modding this one and its moving out of the garage to the side of the house..on to the rb car!!
4/2/2015 9:02:55 AM
glassssssss, jawhitak, or anyone else with an opinion:Where should I get a steering rack for my s13? I guess a pump, too. All I'm seeing for racks are A1 Cardones and MasterPro.
5/14/2015 5:42:38 PM
I haven't had experience with new/reman'd racks. I've only used a couple original racks.
5/15/2015 6:50:48 AM
I bought a steering rack rebuild kit for mine but i havent rebuilt it yet
5/16/2015 7:51:05 PM
Any idea where to get the hard line which goes between the ps high pressure hose and the rack? I had to cut mine out because it was so rusted on, but I can't find just that piece anywhere.
6/11/2015 5:04:57 PM
do ithttp://www.ebay.com/itm/StreetRays-High-Pressure-Power-Steering-Line-For-240SX-S13-S14-SR20DET-KA24DE-/271832166377?fits=Model%3A240SX&hash=item3f4a75afe9&vxp=mtrand use lots of high-quality thread tape on the o-ringed fitting
6/11/2015 7:38:27 PM