Just get a used double or triple road bike. If you want a "cross" or whatever you can put larger tires on it, but you don't need it for 99.99% of the riding you'll be doing if you commute.

Triple will be easier for hills but if you're in any kind of decent shape and/or you don't live in San Fran you should be fine.

3/12/2013 9:23:36 PM

yeah i'm looking at everything. a cross bike would be a lot of fun, but with my budget and what my riding habits will be I probably won't be able to find one.

So i'm looking at decent used road bikes as well.

3/13/2013 10:43:45 AM

^^that sounds great in theory but most road bike frames (and the brakes) won't accept large tires. A cross bike will give him more versatility.

You are right in that if this is a commuter, there isn't really a need for knobby tires.

^Just FYI, main differences between a cross and road bike are frame geometry (cross is going to be a little less aggressive and more upright sitting position generally), frame clearance (cross bike is going to be able to accept larger tires without rubbing the frame), gearing (cross bike will often have a compact crank and a 12-28 cassette for more higher range gearing help), and brakes (cross bikes typically have cantilever brakes which are less aero, but have much more clearance area for large tires and potential mud)

[Edited on March 13, 2013 at 1:41 PM. Reason : d]

3/13/2013 1:35:57 PM

I would think most cross bikes would have disk brakes, or is that a relatively new thing?

3/14/2013 3:44:10 PM

definitely a new thing but they are getting more popular since they became legal in competition a year or two ago.

3/14/2013 3:51:07 PM

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/bik/3649163412.html


that's an add for an older Raleigh road bike. can someone take a peek at that?


Cross bikes are few and far between

3/15/2013 9:18:01 AM

The first thing that strikes me is i think it's too small for you.

3/15/2013 9:20:17 AM

yeah it could be. each makers size chart is slightly different. i would be on the extreme end of fitting on a 56cm it seems. But I'm more curious about price based on components, age, etc. trying to gauge the market.

3/15/2013 9:23:28 AM

nah, 56 is probably about right althought you might step into a 57-58. Either way, it's borderline.

It appears to be a steel frame (can't find that model online) which brings the value down a bit generally although in my mind steel actually rides nicer than aluminum. Assuming it's Tiagra or higher components all around (shifters and and both derailers), that's a decent deal. It looks like the rear derailer was in a crash, so I would try to see if that works correctly because it may just not be out of tune like the ad says.

If you are willing to drive a bit, I watched the Winston-Salem, Boone, Greensboro and Raleigh CL for a while to find my cross bike. They have a larger cross community. Just a thought.

3/15/2013 10:30:42 AM

thanks.

yeah, i've been keeping my eyes on the Triad and Triangle craigslist as well. Also have a friend asking her brother in W-S who cycles to keep an ear out.


speaking of the triad

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/bik/3621948500.html

3/15/2013 10:56:48 AM

I already see by research that that bike is at least 6 years old and they only retailed $700 new. so that guy is asking an awful lot.

3/15/2013 11:13:09 AM

T-T-T-TRIPLE POST


so one of my local bike shops is having a close out on 12 models. wondering if i should just go with something like a Trek 1.1 for $550 and have them professionally fit me.

that's on the higher end of my budget, but if road cycling became a passion as opposed to a means of transportation I would be slightly ahead in regards to gear.

3/15/2013 1:28:14 PM

I started out with this, http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington3_IX.htm (ended up making it into a single-speed for commuting when I upgraded later) which is similar to Trek 1.2 and put it together myself. Pretty easy to do, then you could just pay the $50 or whatever to have a local shop tune/fit the bike, seat & pedals are mediocre though. I have to be honest though I'm partial to Trek and $550 for a 1.1 sounds like a good deal.

[Edited on March 15, 2013 at 3:58 PM. Reason : .]

3/15/2013 3:57:02 PM

^ Looks decent. Most bikes these days come from the same 5 factories in China or Taiwan, so if you're looking for a no frills bike, might as well go with that so you have some money left over for a rack or whatever.

3/15/2013 4:23:30 PM

I can vouch for it, I ended up liking the value on it so much, when I upgraded to full Ultegra, I bought this one: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/sprint_x.htm... again seat and pedals likely need to be upgraded, but rest of the bike is fine.

When I go full carbon, I'll probably buy there again.


[Edited on March 15, 2013 at 4:30 PM. Reason : .]

3/15/2013 4:26:12 PM

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/bik/3565696546.html

This guy got back to me. Bike is still available, and he is willing to negotiate. I like that this is a cross bike built toward a commuter. 56cm but he says he's 5-10 and its a little on the large side for him. With that component list he's done quite a bit of upgrading.

If he'd take $550, same as the new Trek what do you think?


Option 2 If you guys can look in my gallery a friend of mine is moving and would sell me his GT ZR5000 for about $250. Needs new tubes and a tune up. It's an 00 model, so some age on it. I know nothing about GT bikes, but another friend said it would be a good bike for the price, but a little research shows it was their entry level road bike at the time.

[Edited on March 16, 2013 at 9:28 AM. Reason : Add]

3/16/2013 9:25:38 AM

Yes, Ultegra and 105 is a significant upgrade over shimano 2300. I'd take the kona if it were my money.

I've never seen a GT road bike before. It's hard to go too wrong with chromoly especially for $250, but I would probably still go for the kona, especially if I could snag it for $550.

[Edited on March 17, 2013 at 9:12 AM. Reason : d]

3/17/2013 9:10:03 AM

I also vote for the Kona. Those components are better than the Tiagra setup a full build may have come with, and you have the versatility on that frame to run a commuter, cross, or road setup. It's also got a triple on the front, so you could potentially tour and climb up walls.

For commuter bikes I can't say whether I like upright or drop handlebars better- depends on your back flexibility, preference, and mileage.

3/17/2013 12:07:57 PM

Seller will take $550 w/o Pedals.

I have a set of Shimano SPD that have platforms so I can ride with or without my clip shoes. May be a little bulky for this bike, but could work for the time being.

Or i could just get a cheap set of strap pedals. Thoughts?

3/17/2013 7:00:31 PM

That Jake is a good lookin' bike. If I were in the market, I'd seriously consider it, and would think $550 was a decent price for the components, especially if I didn't want to change any of them (like the handle-bar - it's sort of a off-road-drop bar and not a classic road drop, you okay with that?).

Size. It's a Cross frame with a slightly angled top-tube ('compact' frame). These typically run slightly taller for a given C-T size. I'm 5'8", and ride a 56cm road bike. I doubt I'd fit on a 56cm cross bike, I'd expect to aim for a 53 or 54cm (or smaller, if the rest of the geometry was right). What is your standover? Kona has specs on their frame sizes, the 2013 model of the Jake has a 822mm standover for the 56 size frame.

For me and my commuting, it needs fenders. Will it fit fenders and the size tires you want? It probably has mounting holes since he's got racks, but the pics I find only indicate one set of holes, and apparently the mounting holes are new to the model line (2011?). Will you run a rear rack? Will you mind mounting fenders and the rack to the same hole? Raleigh is a wet town to commute in. It's no Seattle, but it rains often enough, or has rained a bit ago and left puddles often enough, that I find fenders are mandatory. I don't mind a bit of rain, but the crap that puddles on the ground ain't clean, and I'd rather not have it all over me.

For pedals - why are you worried about your SPD/cages? They'll work just fine. My personal preference would be clipless over straps any day, but I change when I arrive and don't ride in street shoes. If you are worried about looks/style, well, that bike has too many gears to be Hip, and too many grams to be race. You are squarely in the commuter category, and function rules here.

All in all, it's a nice compilation of parts and frame that would be hard to find all together. If you like them, and it fits you (IMPORTANT - good bikes that don't fit aren't good bikes), it's a good deal.

[Edited on March 18, 2013 at 12:14 PM. Reason : pedals]

3/18/2013 12:09:57 PM

^thanks for the questions...they've got me contemplating but i'll try to answer what i can.


I won't truly be a work commuter. I work in another town 20 minutes away, so this is strictly for local transportation around uptown Charlotte, where I live, and if it's a capable bike I'd like to get into longer rides around the area. Less for racing, more for fitness and fun. Fenders and racks will probably not come into question, at least at this point.

I was looking into the Salsa drop bar. I honestly don't know how i will feel with that bar compared to a more traditional road bar as it's been a long time since i've ridden a true road bike. What I like about the cross setup, as a whole, is that while being more aero friendly, it's a less aggressive riding position than a true road bike.

my standover is roughly 850

as far as looks, i think it's a gorgeous bike. I didn't even consider the gearing in terms or "looking hip". I don't know much about road bike culture but if I have too many gears so what. I want to be able to ride as comfortable as possible. Is there an problem with having too many?

Pedals - the SPD are on my MTB which is currently out of commission. i'll probably order a set of A530's so i can choose to clip in or ride with sneakers and keep the others on the MTB when I get it fixed up.

what i also like about the bike is that while having great components it's also somewhat nondescript in terms of it's look. No flashy paint scheme. I want to be able to chain it up at a bike rack if i drop in for a few drinks and not worry about it catching someone's eye based on a bright road bike paint scheme.

3/18/2013 1:07:22 PM

No problem with having too many except the extra chain ring weighs negligibly more. You won't be the cool go on the road rides, but who cares? I ride a heavy Felt FX1 cross bike on our local road rides.

3/18/2013 3:48:07 PM

Just buy it. The triple won't bother you, and if it does in the future you're less than $100 away from a used compact double.

3/18/2013 4:11:47 PM

Can someone update me on what's hip in bikes these days? Apparently, fixies are out, having too many gears makes you a grandma, and if your bike isn't light enough you're also not cool.

Anyway, yes, you can mount fenders and a rack on the same drillouts, it just requires longer bolts and some more dedication. I also recommend spending a little bit more money and getting waterproof panniers.

3/18/2013 4:34:47 PM

^^^^ If my standover was 850 and I had $550 I wanted to spend on a bike, that Jake would be in my living room right now. I'm 815, barefoot, and I don't have cashmonies for bicycles. I just replaced a chain and brake pads, and my nearly-nonexistant bike-funds are now empty. Check the reach, if you have an idea of top-tube length that works best. I don't think it'll be a problem, and stems are easy to swap for small-ish adjustments. I'm also particularly fond of my steel Kona MTB, so I may be somewhat biased.

Personally, I'd like it to have at least one set of holes for fenders/racks front and back. I'll stick everything in the same hole if I have to, but the solutions involving attaching things to axles/dropouts annoy me. Perhaps not a problem for you, yet, but I hope to convert you to full-fledged commuter. Similarly, I'd want to know what tire/fender combinations will fit, but I'd probably take it if I knew anything would fit. I'd prefer room for 28mm tires or larger. Bikeforums is a great place to find fit combos, although digging through the threads may take good search skillz.

As for the gears and pedals... Whatever makes you happy. Seriously. And if Hipster makes you happy, this is the wrong bike. My commuter is a single-speed with speedplay frogs, because a replacing a $10 PC-1 chain is a far sight better than $16 or $21 or $50+ bucks on something I replace every few months, I had an extra set of frogs from an experiment with full suspension, and I derive some masochistic pleasure from climbing Raleigh's piddly hills without shifting.

I do like the non-descriptness of it. On the other hand, I'm a firm believer in buying a really good lock, and knowing that a pro will be through that really good lock in 30 seconds. A van and an angle-grinder will be departing in less than 30 seconds with any bike they want. This bike isn't flashy, but it is not camouflaged. Locks and locking strategies and risk levels are a whole 'nother conversation.

Bottom line: if it fits, I think it's a good deal. It makes me wish I was in the market for a bike (and had another inch of standover).

3/19/2013 12:20:20 AM

if i go and look at this bike what are some important factors I should look at first. obviously any frame damage. He custom powder coated this one.

I'll definitely hop on it and take it for a spin before I let him take the pedals off. that way i can get a feel for the reach.

3/19/2013 10:06:14 AM

Yeah, the powder coat may make it hard to see some minor frame damage, though it's a lot of work to go through to salvage a frame, so I doubt that was the purpose. But check the frame and other components for obvious damage. I'd only worry about dings in the center section of the handlebar, cracks or major dents on the body of the frame, , and cracked welds (and any crack in carbon parts, but I don't think this has any). Other damage/scrape/whatever is more character than anything else.

I'd want to check the brakes. He replaced the cantilever brakes with V-brakes, which don't normally pair with the brake levers on the bike. V-brakes normally need more cable-pull, and I don't see a travel agent or other adapter. I think, if one were _really_ careful about pad adjustment and truing, it would work (and you'd get more power). Ask him about the conversion, he seems to believe it's an improvement, and then test them and see how they feel.

I'd also check the bearings. He doesn't mention what wheels are on the bike, but some Konas came stock with one Shimano and one Formula hub. Shimanos are cup-and-cone hubs (loose bearings), and the Formula may be sealed bearing. Sealed bearings replace easily, (old ones pop out, new ones pop in - with optional bearing press/mallet). Cup-and-cone hubs, while they have serviceable bearings, don't really have replaceable parts if damaged. Check that they roll smoothly and have no lateral play. The best way to check roll is to remove the wheel from the bike and turn the axle with your fingers (don't spin the wheel). I wouldn't worry about it much with sealed bearings. But I'd want to test any cup and cone hub, and know that any roughness may be indicative of internal damage that would require replacing the entire hub to repair. Also check bearings in bottom bracket by turning the pedals by hand (probably sealed, hard to get a good read on while in the bike, don't worry too much) and the headset by turning the handlebars and by holding the front brake and gently rock forward and backward checking for play in the fork (probably bearings in a race, but headsets are cheaper and easier to replace than hubs). If I found any rough bearings, I'd use them as bargaining points, but most wouldn't be deal-breakers. If a cup-and-cone hub was bad and he refused to bargain, I might reconsider, depending on my ability/willingness to replace the hub.

The rest of it should just work. Chains shouldn't fall off chainrings or cogs when shifted normally, things shouldn't skip, there shouldn't be too many unidentified noises or rattles. If you are somewhat familiar with bikes, there shouldn't be anything that is totally unfamiliar to you. (If you are unfamiliar, bring someone who isn't).

From a comfort-testing standpoint, especially if you will test multiple bikes in order to compare them, check the tire pressure (and bring a pump). Tire pressure has more impact on "feel" of a bike than any other non-suspension component.

I think I've written almost enough words to build a bike now, so I should stop before it gets too overburdened with junk. Good Luck!

[Edited on March 19, 2013 at 1:10 PM. Reason : ]

3/19/2013 1:07:56 PM

Got some additional info from the seller...

Quote :

"2009 model. I’m the second owner. It was bought from queen city bikes. I know the original owner and he used it for a couple of cycles cross races but it was mainly a road bike for him. We are both really mountain bikers. I converted it to 10 speed from 9 speed with better components than what came on it. The wheels are original. The tires are 35mm. They have approximately 30 miles on them. I really only used the bike one time. I took it to Charleston SC last time I went. Truly I would keep the bike as a cycle cross bike but it is just too big for me. I really would be better to part it out as I’m losing my tail on it as it is but I would like to sell it local and complete to keep from having to go through the hassle. My racing season has already started and between training, work, and home like I hardly have time to keep my fleet of bikes that I ride maintained, let alone trying to part this one out and sell it on the internet. Wheels and tires are listed below. Hubs - Front: Formula, Rear: Shimano Tiagra Rims - Alex AT450 Tires - Victoria Randonneur Pro Road Touring Tire. (They are folding bead) Spoke Brand - Sandvic stainless, 15ga front/14ga rear"

also, by learning that it's an 09 Jake I now know the official Standover is 814.

how does that effect my standover of 850? is it now on the smaller side for me?

3/19/2013 4:01:23 PM

Standover is primarily important when you can't. A bit extra is okay (and this is 1.5 inches of space between metal and your balls we're talking about), and perfectly normal on a cross bike or compact frame road bikes. The real question is effective top tube or ETT+stem&handlebar=reach and other cockpit dimensions, and this isn't easy to measure on you (without some kind of fancy bike-fitting calculator, preferably with lasers and a magic 8-ball). This is something to try and see and compare. If you have nothing to compare to, and are off by a small amount, no biggie. Make the stem shorter or longer as needed. You could go to some bike shops around town and test ride bikes, noting ETT, stem length, handlebar configuration and how they feel to you if you would like to have a good basis for comparison.

I think the front hub has sealed bearings. The rear will be cup-and-cone. It sounds like it has fairly low miles, and all the bearings and whatnot should be perfectly fine barring abuse/damage. It might be worth asking if the rear hub has ever been repacked.

3/19/2013 5:44:52 PM

Soo....did you buy the Kona yet?

I went on a ride today in the cool spring weather...nothing major, 30 miles or so. Felt good to get back on and ride on the road.

3/23/2013 2:14:19 PM

no, i think i'm going to go in another direction. It's a great bike, but I wasn't too keen on the flared drop bars after seeing and feeling them in person. just wasn't comfortable dropping the money at this time. still searching actively, daily haha. There are a lot of road bikes for sale, but I like the cross build, being able to take a bump or two without worrying. so my choices are more limited.

3/24/2013 7:26:20 PM

An NCSU textiles study is in need of cyclists to pedal an indoor bike and sweat. Yup, that's all you gotta do.

Volunteers are needed to pedal on an indoor exercise bike for a 5 minute warm up, 30 minutes of moderate aerobic effort (135-155 heart rate) and then 10 minutes cool down. While you work out, there will be a test device consisting of several layers of fabric and sensors taped to your back, where the movement of heat and moisture through the layers will be monitored.

Your vitals will be monitored (blood pressure, blood O2, and 3-sensor EKG) to make sure you don't die, but your performance is not the point of this study.

PM me for more information. I've volunteered for a few spins, and the research team is hoping to find a few more test subjects to round out their study.

3/25/2013 11:42:36 AM

spent over an hour at a LBS i just happened to be near after an appointment yesterday. got some great insight. good thing it was late in the day, might have walked out with a brand new Trek road bike

3/26/2013 8:36:33 AM

so these frames on bikesdirect.com are basically massed produced with obsolete "brand" names decaled on them? Do they come from the same factories that produce Giant, Trek, etc?

3/26/2013 4:13:53 PM

Yes, they are generally produced in the same factories that produce the big names. In fact, several of the models are exactly like several fuji models. I had a Bikes Direct mountain bike and I was very pleased with the quality. You can't beat the price for the components they provide. I am a big time fan of them.

Keep in mind they come mostly assembled so you will have to be semi competent putting wheels on, handlebars, etc. or you can budget an extra $50 bucks and have a local bike shop put it together and give you dirty looks.

[Edited on March 26, 2013 at 5:26 PM. Reason : d]

3/26/2013 5:25:00 PM

Don't discount the value of a brick and mortar LBS when you look at bikesdirect and other internet sources. "Mostly assembled" and "properly adjusted" are not the same thing, and most bike shops will give you several (or lifetime!) free tune-ups and swap out parts to make it fit you. If you do it yourself, make sure you understand how the headset should be tightened, get a torque wrench for any carbon components, re-check all the bolts and re-zero the derailleurs.

That said, I often buy my stuff on-line, and would consider bikesdirect if I were interested in a new, complete bike. I also quit letting bike shops touch my bikes (<expletive> brakes always squealed after Micah was done with them) except for things I haven't acquired tools for yet.

3/27/2013 8:52:02 AM

one of my local LBS has a 56cm and 58cm 2011 Trek 1.2 on closeout. the girl I was talking to the other night mentioned everyone passing on the deal for the new 12 which was 10-speed and a better paint scheme. "even when i offered a couple extra hundred off". I am tempted to go back and see if she'd make me the same deal. I actually really like the 11 paint scheme. it's a 9-speed with mostly Sora components. I think the 12 is all Tiagra.

3/27/2013 10:50:39 AM

can anyone tell me, in the most basic way, what the biggest difference is, when riding, between a 10-speed cassette with 11-25 and one with 12-28 is?


just curious, the more i'm reading into compact cranks and other road bike tech. is it mostly achieving a smoother shift between gears, resistance, etc to lessen fatigue on the rider?

3/27/2013 1:14:42 PM

Simplest? Gear ratio. That's the only difference. The 11-25 goes slightly faster at the same cadence. If the rider were strength (power) limited before, maximum speed will not change. ie, changing cassettes will not make you faster. I have changed cassettes to go slower better (up hills).

Here is a comparison of normal and compact cranks with the two cassettes you mention. I used Sheldon Brown's calculator (http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/) and 700x23 tires.

'normal' double (52x39)
11-25 -- 11.0 mph to 33.3 mph
12-28 -- 9.8 mph to 30.5 mph

Compact double (50x34)
11-25 -- 9.6 mph to 32.0 mph
12-28 -- 8.5 mph to 29.3 mph

Unless you are worried about flat sprints in the 30+mph range, I think the bottom end is more important. Uphills takes more power and slower speed has a smaller window of good RPM. I'd rather spin out at 100 or 110 to reach that 36mph downhill than kill my legs struggling at 60 rpm climbing the hill at 7 mph.

Bottom line: Gears are the transmission, not the engine. Identify the speed range you'll likely operate at, and the rpm your engine likes, and match the two. The Pike's Peak Hill Climb takes a different gear range than the World Rally Championship, even if you use the same engine.

3/27/2013 2:26:29 PM

Quote :

"can anyone tell me, in the most basic way, what the biggest difference is, when riding, between a 10-speed cassette with 11-25 and one with 12-28 is? "

Stryver gave a good description of the difference, but to break it down (and oversimplify it, yes) even more, I'd say that the 11 will mathematically let you go faster than the 12, and the 28 will let you go slower than the 25. You can actually switch to an 11-28 usually if you want the best of both, though you might find the shifting to not be as smooth, if that's a concern.


Anybody ride a mid-compact? I recently picked up a '12 Specialized Tarmac SL3 with a 52/36 mid-compact and 11-28 out back, and it just seems to weird to ride. I'm coming from a 36/42/52 triple, and I never shifted out of the 42 unless I was going a good clip. The 36-11 gear doesn't bind, but it definitely doesn't like the combo, which is obviously normal. I'm continually having to shift the front as I slow down and speed up. I guess I'm just not used to shifting this much, especially since I ride 1x10 on my mtn bike.

[Edited on March 27, 2013 at 3:21 PM. Reason : mid]

3/27/2013 3:01:50 PM

Here's an excellent thread at Bikeforums discussing Bikesdirect. In it you'll find a lot of happy customers, many of whom do a complete rebuild, and some discussion of kinds of things found out-of-adjustment on mail-order bikes.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/878861-Bikesdirect

3/27/2013 4:16:36 PM

Thanks! I will read it tomorrow morning when I have some time.

^^my Specialized dealer is having a huge sale this weekend. I was planning to look at the Allez Elite which is mid compact. Interested to hear more opinions and experiences.

3/27/2013 8:50:57 PM

Another way to look at the difference between the compact, mid compact, and 'regular' is the top speed of the small ring, since this is where you'd shift chainrings. My 39 doesn't like x'ing with the 11 (makes a little noise noise, bugs me, so I shift and avoid it). So my top speed in my small ring is 22.9 (39x12, 700x23, 90rpm). At a 36 front, it would be 21.1, and a 34 would be 19.9. On the other hand, my 52 doesn't like being in my biggest cog (27 at the moment, so, at best, the slowest I go in the big ring is 52x24 or 52x21, which are15.2 and 17.4 mph, respectively.

There's the shift window. I can't shift up before at least 15mph, and I have to be shifted before 23mph. Compact (and mid-compact) lower the larger number, while a bigger cogset lowers the bottom number.

So what speeds do you ride at? I see 18-19mph averages solo, with sustained cruising not above 23 without downhill/wind/drafting trucks. In group rides, I see averages of 20.something, with sustained cruise reaching above 23 and flat sprints above 30. My solo riding fits my 39 chainring very well, with only occasional times I need to shift out of it. Group rides only touch the small ring when sustained climbs are involved, and don't reach the upper limit of my 52x11 without gravitational assistance.

3/28/2013 8:43:50 AM

You guys are correct on the gear ratios, but giving a more complicated answer than I'm guessing he needs at the moment. Truth is, for commuting, he very likely would not recognize the difference between the two cassettes.


Simplified:

12-28 is going to give you an extra gear for climbing and the 11-25 is going to give you one more gear for downhills/sprinting. For most riding, you will rarely be on either the 11 or the 28 cog so it won't matter too much.

3/28/2013 8:55:40 AM

^ Agreed. And the Ultegra drivetrain on the Jake is likely to be better performing/smoother shifting than any combination of chainringsxcassettes in the Tiagra drivetrain of the Allez. But the difference will be small and take a while to notice.

3/28/2013 10:09:19 AM

I think I'm going to go with a true road bike. The more shops I've walked into this seems to be the best fit and I do like the thought of possibly getting into group rides. Hell, I live a half mile from the Booty Loop in Charlotte. Though group riding is very intimidating. How did most of you guys start? Did you join beginner rides at the LBS? I have zero friends in the sport.

3/29/2013 8:48:52 AM

I started mountain biking and living in a small college town with no car. I moved somewhere with no mountains, put slicks on my mountain bike, finally bought a road bike, and rode with the weekly ride(s) at the only shop in a small town. Since then I've found other rides mostly through LBS and contacts made there, but also though local social media, finding clubs/teams.

In any event, you don't need a "true road bike" to start on the beginner rides, and I would encourage you not to get one, yet. If you buy a road bike for the purpose of riding group rides (and events or racing or whatever) you are likely to learn a whole lot about you and bikes and how they interact, and in a year, you'll likely have a different idea of what you want in a bike. Then you'll buy a new road bike, and the old one won't fit big tires or fenders or a rack or anything else, and you'll sell it on craigslist at a loss. OTOH, if you buy the town-cruiser (like a cross bike), you can quite easily ride it on group rides (so it takes a few more watts to pedal, nobody is measuring), and it will still have a place in your stable after you figure out what you want and buy the road bike of your dreams.

I emphasize this especially if you are not currently riding a bike, i.e., if you aren't a converting mountain biker, or similar. You don't need a cheap race bike (or an expensive race bike). You need something to learn how to ride -- aerobically, muscularly, mentally-in-a-group and mentally-physical-endurance, and ergonomically.

And a 'cross bike will fit racing slicks, and can be set up for the same aerodynamic body position as a road bike. At worst, it's a bit heavier and _maybe_ a watt or two less aerodynamic, but at speeds you won't be riding yet.

If you road ride regularly, you'll want a better bike than you are going to buy right now. Wait to see if you are going to ride regularly, then buy that bike. In the mean-time, get something that will be useful if you don't end up as a roadie.

3/29/2013 9:39:54 AM

^ That's why I advised the cross bike. And the flared drop bars could always be changed out for something else.

I can't say I've kept any of my bikes stock, ever. Maybe the Surly, except for seat and pedals.

Easter weekend! Who's going riding tomorrow?

3/29/2013 12:38:07 PM

it seems to me after visiting several LBS is that Cross bikes are out of season and most do not have any in stock to even test ride. The Cross used market is just as bare right now and I'd like to start riding sooner rather than later.

3/29/2013 2:08:43 PM

you will not keep up with any road cyclists if you ride a cross, not many people ride cross unless they race cross or due it solely for exercise, not recreation. yes it can be fitted/tire swapped, but is it worth the price to invest in a cross bike for 1-year? i came from mountain biking and i absolutely love the fit and lightness of a road bike... i find being on a slower bike would have killed my motivation to ride. then again, spending $texas on a trek, after one year you're going to want to upgrade beyond Sora/Tiagra anyhow so either way I guess it's best to start low and buy an upgrade when you know you'll really like it.

i cycle a lot of flats and mountains (8-11% grade) here in CO and I ride a triple 52/39/30T and 11-28T rear 10-speed. I am almost always in 52 in front and 11-28 in rear, occasionally I'll drop to 39 or 30 in front and 28 in rear for the higher longer grades (7-8% over 10 miles), but i side on the strength side of things rather than high cadence, but I'd generally agree the 28 is more important than the 11, although i wouldn't go above a 12 for my lowest gear.

i ride a 42/18 for my single speed and it's great for virtually everything in town (Denver) +/- 3% grade

[Edited on March 29, 2013 at 5:11 PM. Reason : .]

3/29/2013 5:04:32 PM