Quote :

"jay, you dont happen to know anyone with a n62 (z32) maf do you? "

I only have one extra N62, but it's bad.

If you go to junkyard just find any Z32. IIRC some J30s came with N62s as well. All the other J30s (and possibly a few Maximas, etc?) came with N60s which are very similar to N62s and also commonly used as a MAF upgrade on KAs and SRs.

[Edited on September 11, 2014 at 6:31 PM. Reason : .]

9/11/2014 6:30:48 PM

Thanks

Picked one up from a guy off Craigslist.

Nismotronic ecu comes on Wednesday. Can't get here fast enough

9/14/2014 3:49:22 PM

So today was the day that I have been waiting for.
My (used)nismotronic ecu came in..opened it up to verify the card was in it. Plugged it into the computer and loaded a base map for my setup. Car started but sounded like it was camming then died.
imported my proper injector specs and changed the maf load value to account for the voltages being off on my maf sensor.
To my amazement the car started and it's idling perfect. Afr looks good and I'm about to take it for its maiden voyage after the recent upgrades

9/17/2014 5:45:58 PM

Wish I could say I have it running great and it's amazing
But at the moment I am still trying to dial in a tune.
I'm amazed at what nismotronic SA is capable of. It's some amazing software.

9/23/2014 8:45:31 AM

why is there a slave cylinder contraption there instead of e-brake?

[Edited on September 23, 2014 at 8:20 PM. Reason : ]

9/23/2014 8:19:36 PM

Hydraulic E-Brake.... Good for drifting because the cable wont stretch or hang up. The handle is directly vertical and hidden behind the steering wheel

9/23/2014 8:44:59 PM

is the e-brake disabled and hydraulic lines tee'd in with strategic check valves?

/line-lock ideas

9/23/2014 8:57:15 PM

Good idea keeping some oil handy right there in the door pocket.

I miss my 240

9/24/2014 5:56:52 PM

ok so i had a friend come over last night and we drove around while i dialed in the fuel map and recorded logs.

It was running pig rich (10.1 and lower AFRs) but already felt stronger than the old turbo.

today I leaned out the fuel tables a little more..it pulls so hard and sounds amazing, but I still have quite a ways to go. I am going to get some dyno time at national speed and have them finalize the fuel table and get the timing in the ballpark.
For as rich and untuned as it is right now I am pretty happy with the power

took a video (for the sound...nothing to see really)
shifting at around 5500-6000
http://vid325.photobucket.com/albums/k369/elhefeglass/0AEB250A-1168-43E4-A642-16B865BFF15E.mp4

[Edited on September 26, 2014 at 3:39 PM. Reason : ^(power steering fluid, only leak at the moment ..probably not for long)]

9/26/2014 3:38:01 PM

anybody here in the garage do any efi tuning?

9/28/2014 1:08:45 PM

nice to have her back



[Edited on September 28, 2014 at 6:28 PM. Reason : all one color now too ]

9/28/2014 6:28:17 PM

glassssssss - this made me think of your dyno day sheet-

9/29/2014 8:18:16 AM

woah

is one of those yours?

9/29/2014 2:13:18 PM

that poor dyno is crying uncle on the +2000 lb*ft pulls

9/29/2014 2:19:42 PM

^^nah, it just reminded me of your cardboard pic from the other page - only a touch torquier

9/29/2014 2:56:36 PM

This makes me want to have a 240. Looks great man!

9/29/2014 3:30:16 PM

^get one!

small update

when putting the turbo and manifold together I carelessly chose to use the shitty chinese gaskets that came with the manifold instead of the oem steal turbo flange gasket. Managed to blow the gasket in 2 days. Also reused a gasket on the turbine outlet since i got the wrong one in the mail..that area has a slight leak as well. The turbine outlet leak makes a shrieking sound when the waste gate opens. Video from when it first happened:
http://vid325.photobucket.com/albums/k369/elhefeglass/A107359E-2C31-468D-9BBA-683B1280EE50.mp4

i pulled the inlet piping off of the turbo to make sure there was no play or anything..thought my brand new turbo somehow died already


so today I am taking the turbo/manifold/elbow back off and putting on all fresh metal gaskets and tacking the nuts that secure the turbo to the manifold so i dont have any more issues with it coming loose.
this is what i get for being impatient..

[Edited on September 30, 2014 at 9:48 AM. Reason : more work]

9/30/2014 9:46:52 AM

ultra copper rtv

serious post

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=463080

9/30/2014 9:54:51 PM

thanks

I was looking at some of that ultra copper at the store and i didn't get it because it said up to 700*
after reading that thread it seems that most people use it for the turbo flange..I will give it a shot!
thank you

10/1/2014 7:58:17 AM

Quote :

"anybody here in the garage do any efi tuning? "

The owner of Phantasm is actually really good at it. He's been certified through AEM years ago and has been doing it for a while now.

10/1/2014 8:25:38 AM

i am still considering going up to phantasm..I know they have done a lot of 240s with SRs.
I have just read so many things about them not giving a shit about people who they dont know...so many bad stories and very few positive things online about them.
The prices at phantasm are very high, i could get dyno time at national speed for less and probably more peace of mind.

10/1/2014 3:44:37 PM

ignition map (Enthalpy's guidelines for SR):

Quote :

"OK, So you list timing values for over 3500... starting at 32 degrees. What should timing look like below boost? I'll have to check my map, but I think I run it pretty low down in the vacuum. Funny, this is a drivability issue, and even though my timing is working out well in the the power band, I spend a lot more time driving in the range below 3000 with no boost... But it's difficult to tune that area. When I make changes at 1.5Kg of boost, I feel it. When I make changes at 2000 rpm in vacuum, its like... uhhh.... ok, did that do anything? Alright...I am hesitant to post all this in a public forum as it is alot of knowledge learned form hard work and expensive mistakes. these are some of my personal tricks, but since there is apparently a need for the info to sort out confusion i will post it. timing should pretty much level out over 3500 rpm, like this for 0 boost: 500 RPM - 20 deg 1000 - 20 1500 - 22 2000 - 25 2500 - 27 3000 - 30 3500 - 32 4000 - 32 4500 - 32 . . . 7500 - 32 thats a good baseline to start with...rememeber though thats 0 boost...not full vacuum. the reason for having the timing increase as you get toward 3500 is that the actual time that the combustion has to take place gets relatively long at lower RPMs. so the igntion advane should be less. the burn time of the a/f mix is a relatively fixed time for a given intake pressure. so if the time of the compression stroke is getting longer due to low RPM then you want the ignition advance to be less so that you can reach peak cylinder pressures at the appropriate time (15-20 Deg AFTER TDC). when i build my timing maps i keep 20 as my minimum timing all the way down to full vacuum but the 3500rpm value goes up to 40 or 42 deg. so it looks like this: 500 RPM - 20 deg 1000 - 20 1500 - 24 2000 - 28 2500 - 32 3000 - 36 3500 - 40 4000 - 40 4500 - 40 . . 6500 - 40 7000 - 36 7500 - 34 the only weird change is that I like to roll off the timing in the high rpm high vacuum areas...just as a safety measure. when you have timing increasing as vaccum increases you get the equivalent of a vacuum advance distributor. very good for part throttle driving. vacuum advance is necessary for becasue the air / fuel mix is at a much LOWER initial energy state when it is pulled in at a high vaccum. all the molicules are pulled farther away from each other and thus your burn time takes longer. so you need to start the burn sooner to reach peak pressure at the correct time. as the car comes into boost you will have boost retard...so say for an example of 1.0 kg/cm2 (14.7 psi) with .75 deg/lb retard you will need to take away exactly 11 degrees of timing. so your timing map at 14.7 psi should look like this 500 RPM - 9 deg 1000 - 9 1500 - 11 2000 - 14 2500 - 16 3000 - 19 3500 - 21 4000 - 21 4500 - 21 . . . 7500 - 21 the timing retards under boost for the exact opposite reason that it advances under vacuum. witht he af mix coming in at a much HIGHER energy state due to pressure you get a much faster burn rate. so you need to fire the mix later (less advance) to get peak pressure at the correct time. you can see that i would pull the timing out from everywhere. even in places that you might not ever see boost. it's more of a safeguard than anything. also it make s for very linear maps, and ones that are easy to view if you have 3-d map viewing in your EMS software (haltech e-11). one of the things that people miss most about making basemaps and tuning cars is the linearity of the system. if you have big bumps or changes in your maps you are doing something wrong. the engine is a remarkably linear device. evene when you include turbocharging...values should always be smooth for both fuel and ignition."

Fuel:
ride around data-logging or with a buddy looking at your wideband readout and adjust fuel up and down where needed. Use minimum accel/decel enrichments while doing it; you can add it back in later because it may stumble/jerk on throttle tip-in. The buddy method is preferred; my wife hated it

10/1/2014 5:04:12 PM

thanks for that info!
i am still somewhat intimidated with the ignition timing but seeing those numbers will give me an idea whether or not im in the ballpark
Still trying to get my afrs where they need to be before i attempt any timing changes. Hopefully get the turbo back in the car tomorrow and i can continue tuning.

10/1/2014 8:25:28 PM

so that took forever..

had to modify the down pipe again to fit the stock exhaust manifold back in.
finally got everything back in with new gaskets and realized i forgot to put the temp probe into the downpipe
so now i have to take it back off again

[Edited on October 13, 2014 at 9:05 AM. Reason : one day i will drive this ..]

10/13/2014 9:04:54 AM

dyno tomorrow

10/15/2014 6:43:33 PM

Should have some numbers by the end of the day

10/16/2014 12:03:05 PM

mmmm i like that matte

10/16/2014 12:11:12 PM

Sadly I must agree with ^

10/16/2014 12:28:51 PM

10/16/2014 12:55:08 PM

Gotta be honest
Hung knows his shit

Noticed that the knock voltages weren't right for the power being made
Fixed a timing issue and its on now.

10/16/2014 1:53:54 PM

finally break 250 to the wheels, ehhhh???!!??!

10/16/2014 2:26:24 PM

Umm
Yeah


..

10/16/2014 2:38:03 PM

Please say that isn't a raspy, fart can.

Numbers?

10/16/2014 2:45:02 PM

don't be shy!

10/16/2014 3:06:44 PM

Not raspy
Although it sounds better than a Honda, SRs still sound farty with the stock manifold.


I got 289/270
Injectors are about maxed out.

Just drove home and it's insane
manifolds and a head gasket would help a lot I'm guessing

I'm still quite happy, car feels great

[Edited on October 16, 2014 at 3:45 PM. Reason : 2550lb car ..this is a lot of power for my noobish self]

10/16/2014 3:21:20 PM

10/16/2014 4:16:56 PM

Looks good, wish I had some boost.

10/16/2014 6:21:56 PM

Maxxing out injectors already? What size are they, stock 370cc? Get a 740cc set, crank that boost, and aim for 380.

10/16/2014 7:32:35 PM

they are 550s

[Edited on October 16, 2014 at 7:42 PM. Reason : i do think theres a bit more in there]

10/16/2014 7:40:04 PM

Yeah, you should definitely be able to clear the 300 mark with 550s

Edit: How much boost were you making for those dyno numbers? It's the ebay journal bearing equivalent of a gt2871r, right?

[Edited on October 16, 2014 at 8:52 PM. Reason : ]

10/16/2014 8:50:58 PM

yeah its the ebay knockoff
16psi
stock manifolds and cams and head gasket

he kept the timing conservative and afrs are still a bit rich

think i could turn the boost up to 18 or so and hit 300 ?

10/16/2014 9:54:51 PM

I dunno about those knock offs. Last I checked, a 2871r at 18psi with a Greddy plenum and a good tune should be knocking on the door of 350.

Although you still have the stock intake mani. That will hold back your peak numbers a bit.


FYI, Cody Ace's simple, stock-esque setups are a good reference. Stock bore/comp bottom end, stock head, slightly bigger cams, Greddy intake, honed/coated stock exh mani with external gate, big injectors, 2871r, and a ROM tune. Makes roughly 275/220 at 10psi and roughly 390/315 at 20psi.
http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=1809

10/17/2014 8:56:28 AM

nice!

i am going to pick up an extra stock manifold from a friend to send off to cody for the waste gate mod...then extrude honing


dont have much to compare it to, but my 240 feels insanely fast for the street...havent slid it too much yet since the tune.

friends came over to take a ride yesterday, we eventually took a trip to chipotle with a 2 friends..one sitting in the hatch...car pulled like crazy still. even slid a little but that was horrible with him in the back

what did you run on your old sr (before you go the built one)? turbo, psi, hp (if you know)

[Edited on October 17, 2014 at 9:34 AM. Reason : .]

10/17/2014 9:32:48 AM

sounds like we need a tww 240 meet-!

10/17/2014 10:05:23 AM

My last setup was a 100% stock SR, stock IM, tubular mani, GT2560RS (dual ball bearing S15 turbo), 525cc, N62, and JWT tune. The internal gate had an adjustable rod so I left it set around 15psi most of the time. Never dyno'd it. No clue what it made.

It was fun little setup. No where near the top end I have now with the 2871 at 18+ psi, but it spooled a bit quicker and felt peppier at lower RPMs. Arguably better for non-competitive 2nd gear drift courses.


OH! Speaking of drift events! There's a Piedmont event on Saturday Nov 15th.
https://www.facebook.com/events/1563331490567976/

10/17/2014 10:35:09 AM

We will be there!

10/17/2014 11:48:18 AM

keep the stock headgasket

it's the prudent thing to do

10/17/2014 5:01:11 PM

so the morning of cars and coffee.. a friend and I took a quick ride and the clutch engagement point suddenly changed to right near the floor. Clutch wasn't slipping or making any sounds, i assumed it was a bad cylinder
replaced both the master and slave and bypassed the damper box. Now the clutch feels firm again..but I am still having problems with the pedal sticking in the last inch or so of travel. When changing gears mid drift it seems to slowly disengage which is obviously making it hard to keep spinning. I dont feel like its slipping..there is absolutely no clutch smell at all. The engagement point is just weird..seems to keep changing and the friction point is tiny. Very abrupt all of a sudden.
tried adding a couple springs to bring the pedal up quicker..sorta helped but not really.
if anyone has any suggestions or tips please let me know .

i am also wondering if my clutch pedal assembly is somewhat worn..seems like the return spring is sticking a little at the top

10/24/2014 8:34:59 AM

release bearing ok? sucks man, the various old car gremlins can really wear you down even when the car is performing the way you want it to.

10/24/2014 10:14:24 PM

It's not making any strange noises, would a bad release bearing make any noise ?
I did notice that the clutch fork seems to be sticking a little bit.
The main issue right now is the slave cylinder is over-extending and popping the boot off and leaking a little fluid. The clutch is working but the engagement point is high.
Wonder if I could try a longer slave pin since the fork is further back. Also wondering if the pivot ball broke making the fork stick. I really don't want to drop the transmission.

[Edited on October 26, 2014 at 8:48 AM. Reason : .]

10/26/2014 8:47:35 AM