I got toreeee up at the Rendezvous this weekend. Knee bars and shorts do not mix.

5/23/2011 9:36:04 AM

I'm trying to get pumped up for going to Calaveras Dome this weekend, so time to watch some climbing videos! Two I haven't seen:

Alex Honnold on Astroman and Rostrum:
http://youtu.be/pt8yZCXNJFE

Peter Croft and Dean Potter have already free soloed those already, but still incredible. Honnold's technique is just absurdly good. Peter Croft is my hero, he's in his early 50s and still doing 5.13 first ascents--in the damn High Sierra!
http://youtu.be/rGA1vI2HxTs

5/24/2011 12:09:32 AM

^ awesome videos, take some pictures of your climb!

Do you have a route in mind yet? I just glanced at a few, looks tough!


And speaking of glancing at routes what do some of you guys use for internet beta? I've used summitpost for some scrambles and it was pretty good. Rockclimbing.com always seems to take forever to load. Mountain project I've only used once but it seems like its the best so far. Supertopo seems kinda limited. Anyone have a strong preference for my future reference?

[Edited on May 24, 2011 at 9:17 AM. Reason : ^^Im def gonna try to make that next year maybe?]

5/24/2011 9:16:56 AM

^
I use Rockclimbing.com, Mountain Project, and any guidebook I can get my hands on.

5/24/2011 9:38:02 AM

alex honnold is a goofy looking mofo, buuut, damn, he is such a badass. he is my climbing crush.

5/24/2011 11:51:00 PM

anyone want to top-rope with me tomorrow night? TerdFerguson needs to finish his thesis and is not allowed to have any fun until he is finished.

5/30/2011 7:09:24 PM

I went to Yosemite this weekend and climbed Royal Arches on Saturday:
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Royal-Arches-Area-Royal-Arches

Some highlights of the climb:
- On the 4th pitch we went up two pitches which were off-route. One was a 5.7 chimney and the other a 5.9 corner. Both excellent climbing but a big waste of time.
- The 10th pitch had a pendulum across a blank face of rock which was amazingly fun. What wasn't fun was crossing the waterfall flowing down the route after it. I got soaked.
- On the 12th pitch it started raining and we got our rope stuck. My partner, in a t-shirt, was freezing as we tried to figure out what was going on. This took a good 50 minutes to resolve.
- From here on it rained. Being in the 50s it was quite cold. And 5.5 slab climbing is damn hard and scary wet.
- The last pitch is a traversing 5.4 slab. I led it and took a long, sliding pendulum fall on the wet rock. I got very wet and cheese grated my hands and arms. But after 18 pitches we were done.
- We topped out at 7:30 pm and decided to descend North Dome (ND) gully--a 4th class cliffy nightmare.
- The sun set maybe 3/4 the way down ND gully, it started raining harder, and a heavy fog moved in. We couldn't see where the hell we were going with headlamps on. And it was cold and we were both shivering uncontrollably.
- At some point we cliffed out. My partner was hypothermic and not all that lucid. We decided to rappel not knowing whether the rope would reach solid ground or if we would get stuck. My partner could definetely not ascend the rope at this point. Thankfully we reached another ledge system that again cliffed out after another 150 ft of downclimbing.
- Here we talked about how desperate our situation was. If we could not get down we were both dead since we were both soaked through and the temperature was in the 30s.
- We rappelled again but through a bunch of manzanita trees. I am still amazed my rope didn't get caught pulling it after this rappel. The next rappel was right next to a waterfall. It was a full 60 m rappel and I got soaked from the waterfall.
- After this last rappel we finally found the climbers trail down the gully. Here my headlamp died but it wasn't too steap and we could navigate it with one headlamp. And it started raining much harder.
- At midnight we finally found a trail which led to a campground. After another couple of miles walking in the pouring rain we got to curry village where a ranger gave us a ride to my car. He was amused by our ideal & chided us for not being better prepared (he was a climber also).

Anyway, without the rain this would have been a long but rather uneventful day on the rocks. But as it was we were one piece of bad luck or one bad decision from basically dying of exposure on the rock. Which was kinda sobering at the time. Had my rope got stuck on the second rappel or had my headlamp died earlier or had we gone left instead of right at various points would have all been bad. But what an adventure.

5/31/2011 12:22:27 AM

Glad you're alright. Sounds like you guys made several mistakes. At least the sobering moments are good learning experiences.

5/31/2011 1:03:29 AM

yeah thats a pretty scary story. Would rain gear have been enough if you had to wait till morning or do you think you would have needed more?

[Edited on May 31, 2011 at 6:30 PM. Reason : I effin hate cold rain]

5/31/2011 6:28:09 PM

Full blown rain gear probably wouldn't have kept us dry but it might have let us survive a bivy. But you don't drag that up 1600 ft of climbing. The biggest mistake was my partner just wearing a t-shirt. We knew there was a chance of rain but figured we'd take the risk and climb the route anyway. It felt like full blown alpine climbing instead of being in the Valley.

5/31/2011 9:26:38 PM

so what do you usually take with you on a climb like that -- some water, some energy, approach shoes??? maybe a lightweight jacket???

5/31/2011 9:49:12 PM

any good stories?

we are going to pilot mountain in a few weeks - only my 3rd time climbing outside since i started! woot

[Edited on July 6, 2011 at 10:32 PM. Reason : ]

7/6/2011 10:32:29 PM

I have climbed 5.7 but burn out on every 5.8 or 5.9 I try. My fingers just go to hell.

7/6/2011 10:39:56 PM

I need to get back into climbing. I was climbing at Pilot Mountain every other weekend or so until about 2 years ago.

7/7/2011 12:15:58 AM

^^I'm working on 5.8s now. I hope to be climbing 9s on the reg in a couple months.

^You should start again!

[Edited on July 7, 2011 at 7:02 AM. Reason : ]

7/7/2011 7:01:35 AM

we spent saturday out at pilot mountain. it was pretty hot, but not too bad. at least it was pretty empty so we weren't sitting around waiting to climb. what's everyone else been doing?

one downfall, we only had one rope in our group. we need another rope for the next trip so we're not all waiting to climb the same route.

[Edited on July 26, 2011 at 10:54 AM. Reason : ]

7/26/2011 10:53:48 AM

On Saturday I led Haystack (5.8, 3 pitches), The Line (5.9, 3 pitches), and East Crack (5.8, 3 pitches) and finished the day soloing Knapsack (5.4, 2 pitches) at Lovers Leap. It was one of the most perfect days of climbing I've had.

Right now I'm in Durham for business, would be nice to go climbing but the weather doesn't look too good.

7/26/2011 9:18:27 PM

^
Man, you're lucky to live near all that world-class climbing! Sounds like fun.

I got laid off of my engineering job, so I've started setting and teaching classes at the gym. I've also been asked if I'd be interested in assistant coaching a new competitive climbing team, and become head coach after a year. I love it so far. Always wanted to work in the climbing industry, and this might be my way in.

7/26/2011 10:14:10 PM

^^I should be able to get you a guest pass at TRC if you were interested. Like Meg said though, climbing outside was a sweatfest.

^Sounds like an awesome gig, here is a coach question for you:

So earlier in this thread I remember you saying a little about how you train but I was wondering if you had systemized it at all, like having heavy and light days and months with a strength focus and months with more of an endurance focus. I realize I just need to be climbing more, but I want a better plan when I go into the gym (and outside the gym) so that I can climb harder, and get there faster.

Basically I was on my way to 5.10 consistancy, when I had to cut way back on my climbing for about 2 months to finish up school. That and some weight gain have made me regress a bit. I need to get back to where I was hopefully by the time it starts to cool off and climbing outdoors picks up again.

7/27/2011 9:14:49 AM

I would be interested in going to TRC sometime, the weekend would work best. I'm here for an experiment but it seems there's a ton of downtime.

7/27/2011 4:23:00 PM

we are planning to go thursday and also either saturday night or sunday during the day. holla if you wanna come!

7/27/2011 6:11:01 PM

Quote :

"So earlier in this thread I remember you saying a little about how you train but I was wondering if you had systemized it at all, like having heavy and light days and months with a strength focus and months with more of an endurance focus. I realize I just need to be climbing more, but I want a better plan when I go into the gym (and outside the gym) so that I can climb harder, and get there faster. Basically I was on my way to 5.10 consistancy, when I had to cut way back on my climbing for about 2 months to finish up school. That and some weight gain have made me regress a bit. I need to get back to where I was hopefully by the time it starts to cool off and climbing outdoors picks up again. "

I don't really have a system atm. Just climbing whenever my schedule allows.

At 5.10, you have a lot to gain from technique, which just means climbing a shitload of routes. Work on your weaknesses. If you're bad at crimps, climb crimpy routes/problems. Bad at slopers, climb slopey stuff. For endurance, climb routes a grade or two below your limit, back to back, until you burn out. You could also traverse around the gym. Losing the extra weight would help as well.

Here's what Eric Horst says: http://www.nicros.com/training/training-tips/

7/28/2011 11:28:28 AM

Saturday I'm up for some pulling on plastic. Someone suggest a time and I'll go catch them.

7/28/2011 8:10:52 PM

we'll probably go around 6 that night?

7/28/2011 9:51:52 PM

so I felt better about it all after the gym last night. I think I'm down a pound or so already and blew up some stuff that I think I would have struggled on just two weeks ago. I think its coming back I just need to put in the time.

7/29/2011 2:07:52 PM

I can probably get to the gym at 6. So look for a scrawny white guy of medium height renting some gear.

7/29/2011 6:53:12 PM

be ready for me to make you look stupid as i crush a 5.13c

7/30/2011 12:06:21 AM

wake up, thread!

who wants to climb today?

9/24/2011 1:32:08 PM

Welp, back to where I was before school tried to kill me -- and I still have room to probably lose some more weight, so I'm way more positive.

Whats everyone's plan if it ever stops raining?

Right now I've been thinking a lot about:

Dreamland/Wonderland/Linville Gorge



or

Grayson Highlands



Sometime in earl October. I've been to both but never climbed at either. Thoughts?

9/28/2011 6:14:30 PM

linville gorge it is! so excited!

oh, by the way, i have never camped anywhere without toilets or showers.

[Edited on September 28, 2011 at 7:13 PM. Reason : ]

9/28/2011 7:13:11 PM

Red River Gorge this weekend! High of 62. It's going to be amazing.

^^
FYI, you can buy a map of Linville Gorge bouldering at Footsloggers in Boone or Blowing Rock. Not sure if it's sold anywhere else. It includes 500 boulder problems.

[Edited on September 28, 2011 at 10:35 PM. Reason : .]

9/28/2011 10:34:19 PM

Damn, 500!
right now Im just thinking about internet research and then walk in with no expectations and see what we can find. pretty relaxed trip most likely.

9/28/2011 10:44:57 PM

Does mad rock make a good harness and shoes? I am looking to pick up shoes and a harness from a guy on craigslist that says he used them twice for $70. Worth it?

9/29/2011 12:35:46 AM

Don't buy a used harness, especially from Craigslist. You're trusting your harness with your life, so you should know its history. For all you know, that guy could have spilled some kind of cleaning chemical on it and ruined it. Shoes are fine to buy used.

I don't know about Mad Rock, but Evolv is having a closeout sale right now and you can buy Defys for $40:
http://www.evolvesports.com/defy.htm

And is a Black Diamond Momentum harness for $45:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/shop/climb/harnesses/momentum-al-harness

So for ~$20 more, you can buy new gear that is completely trustworthy! Don't skimp on climbing gear

[Edited on September 29, 2011 at 12:54 AM. Reason : .]

9/29/2011 12:44:43 AM

good point... there is an evolv parking lot sale this saturday in LA (about an hr and a half away)... maybe that's worth it

9/29/2011 1:32:04 AM

I wouldn't buy shoes used; guy's been wearing them around for a while, they're formed to his feet, not yours. They would work, yes, but if you're wanting to get into climbing, you should get your own shoes. On that note, I'm not so paranoid about used gear that I would never consider buying it, but you have to be smart about it - know what to look for as far as serviceability, and find out why the person is selling it. Example: buddy of mine got a whole set of climbing gear because the guy selling it got out of climbing. Not bad. On the other hand, if the guy is a bit wishy-washy about his reason for parting with it, might be best to stay away.

Of course, you could always be a cheapskate and just buy some sling rope or webbing and tie your own harness.

10/3/2011 1:13:55 AM

haha, thanks. I went to evolv and picked up some evos (http://www.evolvesports.com/evo-2011.htm) for $40. Then picked up a black diamond momentum harness and some other starter stuff. Went bouldering at the gym today... much harder than I thought it would be. My finger strength needs work.

[Edited on October 3, 2011 at 2:46 AM. Reason : ]

10/3/2011 2:26:48 AM

Really cant find a super aggressive bouldering shoe without 3d heel. My achilles is too large for 3d heel

10/3/2011 12:13:06 PM

Question for you guys, just out of curiosity. I'm assuming everyone posting in here is a recreational climber; how many of ya'll have rescue/emergency/purely practical climbing experience? e.g., Prusik climbs, buddy rappels, traverses, things of that nature?

10/4/2011 1:03:06 AM

I've been trained in some rescue. Why?

10/4/2011 1:23:12 AM

Like I said, just out of curiosity. I've got my own gear for recreational climbing, but most of the climbing I've done is utilitarian in nature. Especially now that I live in Kansas. Not exactly known for its climbing locales.

10/4/2011 7:36:59 PM

sunday early evening @ trc

10/4/2011 11:11:54 PM

does nobody climb anymore?

going tomorrow night, by the way. i think there is some kind of bogo special for day passes.

[Edited on November 4, 2011 at 9:22 PM. Reason : ]

11/4/2011 9:22:07 PM

I'll be at the TRC comp on the 19th! Coaching Inner Peaks' climbing team for the USAC comp and then entering the citizen's comp afterwards

11/4/2011 10:45:35 PM

i'll probably watch the finals. and then i'll be angry that i just watched an 8 year old beast a v8 and i'm struggling to move up to a v2.

11/4/2011 10:51:15 PM

^^Climbed a few of the new boulder problems for the competition tonight, lots of fun. Meg and I are planning to be there to atleast watch some, hopefully we will see you there. Good Luck!!

11/17/2011 9:03:32 PM

It's a goal of mine to be able to compete in the beginner category next year. I don't care about placing, I'd just like to be able to hold my own. One day.

11/18/2011 10:34:48 AM

Are there any good indoor climbing places to go in Charlotte? Or Raleigh?

11/18/2011 11:36:07 AM

^Charlotte - Inner Peaks

Raleigh - Triangle Rock Club or Vertical Edge or Carmichael if you are still on campus

11/18/2011 4:18:49 PM

some cool throw back photos in this link

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-Classic-Pumping-Sandstone-by-John-Long-Climbing-1978/t161n.html

Some of these old school boulders look straight diesel!!

I'd seen this photo before but reposting cause I think its so bad ass

12/5/2011 12:32:06 PM