^ pretty good web page, talk about thorough.yeah for page 3[Edited on May 22, 2007 at 8:05 PM. Reason : ..]
5/22/2007 8:05:34 PM
5/23/2007 9:50:15 AM
msd 6al and a distributer, will be next on the list as well as laughing gas standalone fuel. dont know what kind of mangament i want to go with though
5/23/2007 1:23:57 PM
so what are you running ?5.4l so is it a mod motor or a stroker 302?
5/23/2007 1:42:18 PM
found what I want http://www.lingenfelter.com/pack_cf1992_350.htm heading to a local tuner to strap her to the dyno this afternoon to see where im starting at
5/23/2007 4:50:13 PM
^who?
5/23/2007 4:50:55 PM
Tru Dyno Sports in Hickory, NC
5/23/2007 4:57:57 PM
Take it to Mayhem Motorsports......its right there near the fairgrounds off of Germantown Road in Randy Haywoods old shop (Haywood Custom Speed). Talk to Jeff and Jay there.......they will certainly take care of your parts, install, and dyno tune....... and are right there in the general area of State.
5/23/2007 5:51:55 PM
he's not in the raleigh area. i was going to reccomend them or r.p.m. also.
5/23/2007 6:20:10 PM
5/23/2007 6:44:28 PM
^read, he never said haywood was still there.
5/23/2007 6:52:55 PM
just got back and was pretty impressed with the stocker281 torque249 rwhp ill see if i cant scan the graph laterafr is running rich as a bitch though 12.0, par for the course on a stock engine though. he does alot of tuning but doesnt do much as far as install. said he would ask around to see who he knew that would be willing to install some headers and a cam.after getting a closer look to really do that kind of install you really need to drop the k member and engine together. and without a lift it will be a real bitch. well see what they quote, he kinda thought about 350 to install the headers, that would be a hell of a deal for that kind of work.
5/23/2007 7:06:17 PM
btw
5/23/2007 7:16:58 PM
Those numbers are pretty low. I'd do your basic maintainance (plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc), and I can almost guarantee you (as long as nothing is wrong with the car) that it will pull closer to 265-270rwhp and over 300rwtq.....
5/23/2007 7:17:23 PM
yeah, those numbers are a little low even for sae... especially the torque.[Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:20 PM. Reason : ,]
5/23/2007 7:19:22 PM
on an LT1 i was under the impression that the stock hp was only about 285, possibly underated a bit, maybe 310 torque.thus i was fairly impressed, the tech was saying the same thingas well ac was on, lol, forgot about itand all maintenance does need to be done most likely, but that would be pretty cool if i could that much more on just a tune up.[Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:33 PM. Reason : ...][Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:35 PM. Reason : ....]
5/23/2007 7:32:46 PM
though not quite as much as the ls1's, it's frequently found that the lt1's are underated on their advertised crank hp/torque output.also, when you actually get it tuned i would reccomend it be done by someone who actually works on these cars. not some bobo that happens to own a dyno and knows how to read a monitor. i wouldn't trust anyone that has to speculate about installs and can't even reccomend you a place to have the work done.[Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:42 PM. Reason : .]
5/23/2007 7:38:07 PM
from talking with the tech i think im going to tune it up, do all the little maintenance items (fluid changes and such) then turn it over to him hes thinking with that, headers, cam, and tune, 300 rwhp and 330 torque wont be a problem^well see how things go, all this guys shop does is tunes.[Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:41 PM. Reason : ..][Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:43 PM. Reason : ...][Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:45 PM. Reason : ..]
5/23/2007 7:41:25 PM
5/23/2007 7:45:22 PM
^lol, why do you say that?sure i can check em out, ive actually got to be in raleigh this weekend anyway. which shops would you recommend?
5/23/2007 7:47:13 PM
http://www.vtengines.com/main.htmmakes 700hp mod motors (read news ticker)
5/23/2007 7:47:14 PM
^^you should easily surpass his speculation numbers with those mods. like i said before, i'd also be wary of someone who doesn't do any install work and can't even reccomend you somewhere that does.call up r.p.m. or mayhem motorsports. both do awesome work, and really know lt1's/ls1's. i would go so far as to say it's their "specialty". ^what does that have to do with anything?[Edited on May 23, 2007 at 7:57 PM. Reason : .]
5/23/2007 7:55:12 PM
meh... just tossing it out that it can be done elsewhere. find a a dyno for me or a street setup w/ bypass valve yet?
5/23/2007 7:57:23 PM
^^ thx ill give them a call and see what they say
5/23/2007 8:01:48 PM
5/23/2007 8:02:26 PM
As mentioned above 249rwhp with catback is low, especially for a 6 speed.There is no need to remove the engine to put a cam in. You do have to take out the radiator and the AC condenser can be tilted out of the way.
5/24/2007 7:18:28 AM
^true, just figured if it was out for headers, might as well do the cam at the same time given the easy access.
5/24/2007 7:48:21 AM
5/24/2007 9:10:21 AM
^ agreed about the total rwhp. the numbers we were talking were with a cam, headers, and a tune only. (catback already installed) basically figure those couple of things were good for at least 50 horses. an agressive cam would be more i would imagine, im thinking mild at this point.*also as BigBlueRam mentioned ill call some of the tuners in Raleigh and see what they sayi would imagine with alot of the other bolt ons i would at least get another 40 or so horses.figure additional bolt ons include:-airfoil-CAI-160 degree thermo-tb coolant mod, possibly new tb all together-electric water pump-underdrive pulley-possible ignition upgrades
5/24/2007 9:27:19 AM
I dynoed 358/370 with:cam/valvetrain/rockers (the cam isn't what I'd call big either)MAC shorty headers/Off-road Y pipe, Borla catbackKN CAIAirfoilNGK plugs and Taylor wires, if that means anythingDyno tuneNo underdrive pullies, electric waterpump, ignition mods, or free mods were present at the time. The rest of what was on the car at the time was just minor suspension work, an LT4 clutch, and a shifter, none of which affect dyno numbers.The waterpump, thermo, pullies, and ignition were (and are) still stock.RyaNCSU1, if I were you, I would add a CAI, catback, and headers/Y-pipe to your car and go hit the dyno again. With those mods, these cars will typically make anywhere from 275-295rwhp (mine did 290 without a tune in this state).Definitley skip any pullies, ignition, or MAF mods, as they won't really net you anything worthwhile. These cars like to just breathe more than anything, as the exhaust and induction is very restrictive from the factory.
5/24/2007 10:58:54 AM
i love putting headers on lt1s lol. fucking pain in my ass. even worse when insalling arp studs
5/24/2007 3:06:04 PM
http://www.horsepowerjunkies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49950 car is clean but not worth more than 3500. thats the bad thing about f-bodys
5/24/2007 3:09:21 PM
Ohh bbr you're sooo silly you have no proof and make statements for the truth and then just hissy fit and cry when asked to produce it.fun times...btw that link was for slowblack in retort to me thinking mod motors could make power was silly and the 2v comment.
5/24/2007 4:14:24 PM
ohhh sumfoo1, your name suits you so well. since you're so hell bent on this, why don't you explain or prove to me why it's not possible.
5/24/2007 4:58:21 PM
just for reference...back when 93formula had his 1993 formula with the LT1, it put down about 290 RWHP on the dyno....and that was only the SLP 2 on-the-left exhaust and a CAI
5/24/2007 5:19:15 PM
^if ive seen anything the last week or so from the lt1 and ls1 forums regarding power output. its that they are consistently inconsistent.seems to just really depend on the car.case and point, your example. stock power on a 93 was supposed to be 275 hp and 325 torque. i keep hearing widely varying #s on what people are getting on a dyno. anything from 220rwhp up to yours of 290.
5/24/2007 5:50:09 PM
anybody wanna buy or trade anything (of equal or lesser value) for a 2001 Camaro SS? 79k miles, 6 speed, has headers and exhaust, not sure if it has anything else. Could use a paint job.the reason I ask is that I likely have a buyer for my Evo if I take it in trade. I can hang onto it for a while, but if anyone wants it, i'll sell/trade it. I could make a trip to NC--that's no prob. I'd like to come home for a few days before I move to the west coast, anyway.[Edited on May 25, 2007 at 8:32 PM. Reason : asdf]
5/25/2007 8:27:40 PM
Wait, are you talking about heads and a cam on daily driver? Bah. Don't mess with that shit until you have another car. When you get to that level of modification cars become annoying to drive every day, like when you're always watching your back because of cops and always worrying about your neighbors because of the exhaust, or you drive the piss out of it and things are always breaking.I know plenty of people who can put up with it for a while but eventually it will just piss you off and you will want another car.[Edited on May 26, 2007 at 12:42 AM. Reason : .]
5/26/2007 12:41:05 AM
those things run a 10-bolt, right? how much will it stand reliably?
5/26/2007 12:43:46 AM
7.5" 10 bolt FTL. They last a pretty good while under an auto, even at a pretty extreme power level. I have seen plenty of fairly stock LT/LS cars with t-56's destroy the guts in the 10 bolt. Really depends on how you drive it, and the tire. Of course a sticky tire is going to shorten the life drastically at any power level. FWIW here is my dyno sheet of my bone stock '97 SS. The mobile dyno was setup at a car show at the oceanfront, and it was near 100 degrees when I dynoed. The numbers are corrected. With just the SLP Loudmouth catback I was over 280rwhp.LT1 torque curve ftw.....
5/26/2007 1:29:45 PM
5/26/2007 4:59:26 PM
yeah dude, heads & cam on a domestic V8 are routine. I mean, you can (at some point) MAKE it unstreetable with, say, a really aggressive cam, but by that point, you've prob done all sorts of other shit to it, too.a chevy V8 makes huge gains with heads and cam, generally much more so than an import I-4...and as long as you don't go totally nuts, it'll be fine to DD.
5/26/2007 6:16:39 PM
I guess my definition of unstreetable has become a little broader than the typical gearhead's, which is why I myself am picking up an unmodded daily driver in about two days.And I'm not talking about other cars here, I am talking about F-bodies with those exact mods. i know a couple people with heads/cam and I am fully aware of the gains possible. I've driven their cars. That extremely loud redneck shit gets old FAST. and they are cop magnets. it's just not a classy and respectable car anymore--which is fine if you don't have to drive it every single day, but not if you plan to hold on to it. I mean come on, are you going to visit clients in that thing? Are you going to take your grandmother somewhere in it? Are you going to take a girl out on a first date in it? You're not going to be able to do all those things 100% of the time when you do all that shit to car. Get another car man before you make things obnoxious.
5/26/2007 9:18:33 PM
here you are in another thread calling stock f bodies classy and respectable while you are trashing them in another thread. not to mention all your other typical idiotic commentary.... please fucking shut the FUCK UP!
5/26/2007 9:24:27 PM
get real, an f-body isn't a classy/respectable car in the first place if you're worried about impressing clients, or whatever. that's not what someone buys one for.there's also no rule that says you have to run a cutout or straight pipe on them. plenty of people make gobs of power through a fully muffled system, and might have a cutout for the track.if your only definition of unstreetable is a little extra noise, then you've got a screwy definition. you can do h/c/i/full bolt ons to an lt1/ls1 and still have a car that's just as comfortable as stock to drive on a trip, idle in traffic on a 90 degree day, etc.then again, i've heard/seen your n/a car around before. i'd be embarrased too for making all that noise and going so slow.
5/26/2007 9:29:51 PM
^
5/26/2007 9:58:42 PM
^^^^not going with new heads anyway. maybe a mild cam. the only reason for not taking it further at this point is reliability, downtime to do the install, things such as this.my line of thinking is that when the engine dies or its condition declines (figure maybe 50,000 miles if im lucky) itll just give me an excuse to build a stroker and THEN ill get a shitty daily driver.anyway, just drove it about 600 miles this weekend, surpisingly was fairly comfortable for most of the trip. does alright just sputtering down the highway. emphasis on sputtering, its amazing how high 6th gear is. 80mph at 2000 rpms is stupid imho. helps with gas and all but its a useless gear unless your topping 100. maybe a lower gear in rear end is in its future at some point.
5/27/2007 4:54:33 PM
welcome to torque.
5/27/2007 5:30:30 PM
Try 1700 at 80 and still roasting the KDW tires in 1st gear. That's why I haven't bothered to swap the 3.23s out.My junk gets better gas milage going 80 to the beach than 65 to Charlotte.
5/27/2007 7:05:38 PM
The 6th gear is one of the things I like best about these cars. It makes them dramatically more efficient on the highway. It's also amusing to drop it down a cog or two and be able to place the car anywhere you want to in traffic.These LT1 motors will last way longer than 50k miles. I know of several that have been run hard in excess of 200k miles, and several more that have made over 500rwhp with over 100k miles with heads/cam/n20 setups.
5/29/2007 3:14:30 PM