You'll need a 5-gallon brew kettle and a floating thermometer at minimum. Also for your first batch don't forget bottle caps and dextrose for bottle-conditioning (these typically aren't included in kits or recipes)Additional minimal equipment (but not required, just extremely useful)- 5-gallon carboy (to be able to transfer to/from bucket so you can do a secondary and filter out sediment, can be PET or glass)- Siphon (makes transferring increasingly sanitary, reduces sanitation, and additional method to reduce sediment)- Grain bag or cheese cloth (keeps excess grain husks and grain out of your wort)[Edited on July 17, 2012 at 7:18 PM. Reason : .]
7/17/2012 7:17:27 PM
I'd suggest a second bucket or carboy to aid in bottling or use as a secondary. Also, American Brewmaster includes corn sugar for bottling in their kits I believe.
7/17/2012 8:15:26 PM
7/17/2012 11:01:53 PM
Thanks for the input. So I started reading Palmer's book and he gets kind of deep into water chemistry/quality for brewing and how certain minerals affect beer, how to adjust mash pH if needed, how to treat water for optimizing brewing for different grains, etc. Do any of you guys pay attention to this, or just brew and enjoy? I'll be on well water, so more than likely quite a bit different chemistry profile than COR water. Certainly, it's a try first, correct later thing, but I'm just thinking ahead.
7/18/2012 8:31:56 AM
worrying about water chemistry on your first batch is a bit of a stretchsave that for later, imoget a few batches under your belt, and start exploringthere's plenty of time while you're waiting on fermentation to keep reading and have other ideas [Edited on July 18, 2012 at 8:50 AM. Reason : the best batch ive ever made came from jugs filled off of a well, way out in east texas]
7/18/2012 8:49:33 AM
Palmer's book is great. I keep it handy every brew session and re-read it at least once a year. But it does go into some depths that aren't necessary for the basic stove-top home brewer. sanitation is key. first and foremost.
7/18/2012 8:55:10 AM
^,^^ thanks.I'm not really concerned about water chemistry at this point, as I said, it's certainly a try and correct later type of thing. The few brews where I've accompanied friends, they certainly didn't do anything but open the tap; I just wasn't sure if anyone (meaning normal homebrewers) actually messes around with water chemistry, especially between city and well water. I certainly won't be messing with this until after several brews and only if something is consistently wrong with them (and it's not my fault )I'm almost all the way through Palmer's book already. For a somewhat dry read and being an informative book (as opposed to a book for entertainment), it's really a quick and mostly easy read (though it does have entertainment value just from his style and the fact readers are entertained by beer knowledge). He does dive into some topics, which are clearly helpful for the more experienced brewer/custom brewing, but lost on the noob
7/18/2012 9:09:37 AM
I live in Durham, and the only thing I do to my water is filter it through one of these:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/water-filter-setup-29145/It's attached to the end of an RV (food-safe) hose, so all water going into my brewery is filtered through it.Also, that site has tons of info for the new brewer. There's also tons of holier-than-thou douchebags on there who cant brew worth a shit but will tell you you're doing just about everything wrong with your beer. Take their advice with a grain of salt. Most of them are idiots. Especially a user named "Revvy". But if you can wade through the bullshit, there's some decent info.
7/18/2012 10:32:29 AM
7/18/2012 11:09:28 AM
^thanks. do you know how often they hold beginner classes? the website only has three for this year, all of which have already occurred.
7/18/2012 11:15:22 AM
7/18/2012 2:40:43 PM
Dude, the classes are VERY basic. Watch a few youtube videos and you'll be fine.Even better, Northern Brewer has a series called Brewing TV http://www.brewingtv.com/Start at episode 1. They go over all aspects of brewing, visit breweries, etc. I've watched all 60+ episodes so far and really enjoyed them all.^Yeah, a simple $15 quick-read thermometer from Target will do you just fine. I've got my sights set on a Thermapen ($texas), but still currently use a cheapie from Target. Just make sure it's calibrated. It should read 32* when stirring a glass of water with crushed ice.[Edited on July 18, 2012 at 2:44 PM. Reason : .]
7/18/2012 2:41:51 PM
[Edited on July 18, 2012 at 2:44 PM. Reason : .]
7/18/2012 2:44:01 PM
my point was you need a thermometer... yes you NEED a thermometer, durrrr. can be floating or quick-read. i use a quick-read too (as well as built-in brew kettle thermometer), but if you're going the cheap route, floating is less expensive. and it COMPLETELY depends on what kit you buy on whether or not you need dextrose.[Edited on July 18, 2012 at 2:55 PM. Reason : .]
7/18/2012 2:53:36 PM
7/18/2012 3:08:38 PM
quite a few of my hardcore brewing buddies prime their kegs with table sugar. No issues at all.
7/18/2012 3:46:27 PM
good lord, priming sugar, i should have used the word priming sugar instead of dextrose. you're picking apart my words.... you had to have known what i meant when i said it since most kits include priming caps to put into bottles that's not dextrose. i just use that word because that's what i use and that's what homebrew stores typically sell in bulk for priming. sorry for the confusion.and maybe i should clarify brew kettle, no you don't need a kettle DESIGNED for brewing, a simple 5-gallon pot will suffice. [Edited on July 18, 2012 at 6:03 PM. Reason : .]
7/18/2012 5:59:49 PM
^ don't get pissy...if you've EVER brewed, you SHOULD know that "dextrose" is not a universal term for "priming sugar"...and given that you're talking to a newbie and we both know walking into a brew store and asking for dextrose would ensure that you paid some stupidly high price for sugar, i felt it was a relevant clarificationfurthermore, i have NEVER once received a kit that included priming caps...never...not saying that it isn't common, but of the 10+ kits i've done, i've never seen it...maybe as an add-on?and yeah, for a new guy, you probably SHOULD clarify that he can pick up an aluminum 5-gallon pot (usually sold as a turkey fryer) for $20 NEW (and around $10 used)aluminum is arguably inferior, but hold on off on the $$$ stainless purchase until you know if you like it and the investment will be worth iti'm only pointing these things out because they weren't pointed out to ME when i started...thinking you HAVE to use these "special" items when you don't is frustrating
7/18/2012 7:11:26 PM
LOL @ quagmire being an indignant ass to prospero....anyways, here's a pic of my recently almost carbed RIS that i thought might be infected. actually turned out fucking awesome. no signs of funk or sourness. with the new keezer that my brew buddy and some good friends put together as a wedding present.
7/18/2012 8:37:53 PM
Nice keezer!I just got a few decals in tonight. My brewery control panel has now been pimped
7/18/2012 9:40:12 PM
pshoes & BL got it down, never post a picture unless it has a beer in it props to both of you. that RIS looks strong & tasty!@quagmire02 never thought i'd get trolled in the Home Brewer's thread... that's a first.[Edited on July 18, 2012 at 11:36 PM. Reason : ,]
7/18/2012 11:33:36 PM
you weren't trolled, you dumb fucker, you were called out for telling someone they HAD to use "dextrose" to primeand now you're embarrassed because you apparently got confused, thinking "dextrose" and "priming sugar" are interchangeable in a universal sense (backpedal much?)...maybe you're more a noob than i thought? in any case, it's poor form to get all upset because someone called you out when you were obviously and inarguably wrong...just at your dumbass mistake and move onor cry about it some more
7/19/2012 7:16:34 AM
7/19/2012 8:06:35 AM
maltose gives better head than dextrose
7/19/2012 8:29:29 AM
quagmire02, I simply used those words out of habit, if you want to argue semantics and try to convince me that I meant something different than what I meant, it's a lost cause. there's nothing technically wrong with what i said, other than the cost of the products i use vs. what other methods you can use. stop being a dick about a couple bucks.i'm sorry you had a bad experience getting into brewing and all that money you lost paying for dextrose when sucrose would have worked and i think you're just bitter because your sucrose primed beer tastes more like wine. drop it.
7/19/2012 11:08:14 AM
oh HELL no you're not dragging me into this. I suggested a $15 digital thermometer. I've gone through 3 floating thermometers (they break pretty damn easily...and good luck fishing glass particles out of your mash if it happens in/near your mashtun. So in the end, I wish I had only spent the $15 to begin with.
7/19/2012 11:32:11 AM
7/19/2012 11:42:16 AM
And... there's the troll. Yes you don't need dextrose. Technically you don't need a second carboy either, I think with pretty much every thing we've posted here each person's version of what's "needed" is different. i'm not the one upset here. Some people have bad luck with floating thermometers, some people taste the residual sweetness that yeast leaves behind when using sucrose, there are downsides to nearly every cost-saving piece of equipment. so take the cost-saving measures where you think best, that's completely subjective.^^And I wish I had invested in a 9-10 gallon brew kettle to begin with... [Edited on July 19, 2012 at 11:54 AM. Reason : .]
7/19/2012 11:42:59 AM
pointing out your simple mistakes = trollingi think your "habit" is manifesting itself again
7/19/2012 11:44:59 AM
trolling is taking one word a person said and bitching about it. RDWHAHB [Edited on July 19, 2012 at 11:49 AM. Reason : .]
7/19/2012 11:46:26 AM
Once you go propane, just make a keggle. I've never once regretted it.
7/19/2012 11:53:39 AM
^^ dude...despite the story you've made up in your head, this was not "bitching" about what you said:
7/19/2012 11:54:11 AM
dude, those $7-$8 thermometers are shit, get it wet once and it's toast.troll not done trolling?.... i'm not taking anything personally, are you in the wrong thread?you use sucrose, that's perfectly acceptable, i don't see what you're still posting about?[Edited on July 19, 2012 at 11:59 AM. Reason : .]
7/19/2012 11:55:22 AM
7/19/2012 11:56:44 AM
and glass thermometers are too fragile to be in my brewery. Drop it once, and it's broken.
7/19/2012 11:56:54 AM
Ok folks. Lets get back to the important topic here.BEER.Anyone have a good Cream Ale recipe?
7/19/2012 11:59:15 AM
^^I'm just saying spend the extra $10-$15 and get a true waterproof quick-read thermometer. This entire discussion just revolves around how much money you're willing to spend.^Sorry, haven't done a cream ale yet, but I'd be interested in hearing your final recipe.
7/19/2012 12:01:46 PM
All-grain Saison (recipe previous page)It's delicious[Edited on July 30, 2012 at 9:20 PM. Reason : .]
7/30/2012 9:19:16 PM
I brewed a saison last year and could never get rid of the yeast... I had to throw out all my plastic and bleach bomb my glass. Saisons are great untill every beer you brew starts tasting like them. lolCourse it was probably time to get rid of 4 year old buckets.Anyways, have 5 gallons of strawberry mead (1/2 gallon honey, 3 lbs strawberries, champagne yeast), and 5 gallons of peach mead (1/2 gallon honey, 3 lbs peachs, champagne yeast). They both smell delicious. Gonna leave in primary and gelatine them when they are done... then bottle with a little priming for a sparkling mead.Just bottled a standard pale ale with cascade and Saaz.Thinking of brewing a cream ale next... ^^^ let me know what recipe you choose.[Edited on August 3, 2012 at 3:16 PM. Reason : ...]
8/3/2012 3:13:48 PM
Brewed this today, first time breaking 75% efficiency (78-80%) using single batch sparging method.HOME BREW RECIPE:Title: DoppelbockBrew Method: All GrainStyle Name: DoppelbockBoil Time: 120 minBatch Size: 5 gallonsBoil Size: 7.5 gallonsEfficiency: 75%STATS:Original Gravity: 1.085Final Gravity: 1.023ABV (standard): 8.10%IBU (tinseth): 20.7SRM (morey): 20.5FERMENTABLES:11.0 lb - Munich 10L, German (68.75%)3.0 lb - Pilsner 2-row, German (18.75%)2.0 lb - Caramunich, German (12.5%)HOPS:0.5 oz - Pearle (AA 9.7) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil0.5 oz - Hallertau (AA 4.6) for 30 min, Type: Pellet, Use: BoilMASH STEPS:1) Temperature, Temp: 155 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 19 qtYEAST:Wyeast - Bohemian Lager 2124 (2 pouches)
8/11/2012 4:53:23 PM
Got a basics question - what do you guys do with dirty beer bottles that you're saving for the next brew (including labeled bottles from commercial beer)?I just put 8 gallons of water in a plastic tub (I don't need this much right now, but I was filling the tub in increments to mark 4/6/8 gallons so I can easily refill to a certain depth, depending on the # bottles, and figured I wouldn't waste it) with the appropriate amount of beerbrite. Figured I'd let them soak for a bit, remove labels, brush out, dry, cover holes with aluminum foil, and then stash away.But it's annoying to wash/de-label bottles as they come available; would it be bad to just rinse them out and then throw them in this tub (with water and beerbrite) and leave them until I get enough so that it's worth the time to brush/dry/cover/stash?I know that at this point I just need to clean them (not sanitize), but I figured if I have beerbrite, I might as well just use that instead of keeping up with a separate cleaning solution.[Edited on August 11, 2012 at 7:02 PM. Reason : .]
8/11/2012 7:00:54 PM
I'm still a n00b, that said:I just rinse out bottles as they come available really well. A day or two before bottling time I check the bottoms for any mould that might have grown just to be sure. I recycle any that have anything in the bottom I can't remove. The day of bottling I fill the sink with hot water w/ beer brite and rinse them out well and let them dry. I've been told it's okay to run them through the dish washer without soap (I've been told you're never supposed to use soap on any of your equipment) but I've not done this yet.
8/11/2012 10:34:46 PM
gotcha. I don't deal with mold. any kind, any time. I like to really clean, dry, and cover, and hope for no mold; else it's immediately going in the trash.
8/11/2012 10:51:22 PM
8/12/2012 7:33:07 PM
Booyah! Blue ribbon for the White IPA!BJCP-sanctioned event, specialty category 23[Edited on August 12, 2012 at 8:35 PM. Reason : .]
8/12/2012 8:34:50 PM
^WTG, grats!
8/12/2012 9:43:57 PM
^^ sweetBeen out of the game for awhile. First brew of the year is a rye saison with yeast harvested from a Saison Dupont bottle. Tastes awesome so far but only down to 1.035 3 weeks in, even at 85 degrees. Pulled a gallon today and put onto 3# peaches and the dregs from a Rayon Vert bottle (some kinda brett). Just hoping for the best here.[Edited on August 12, 2012 at 10:36 PM. Reason : what could go wrong ]
8/12/2012 10:33:22 PM
Cheezcurd that sounds great! So did you split the batch and do part Brett, then plan on blending it with the base or did you just Brett the whole batch? Worse case scenario you can always blend peach concentrate at the end of it to give it some sweetness/fruit back to it.[Edited on August 12, 2012 at 11:08 PM. Reason : .]
8/12/2012 11:06:39 PM
3 gallon batch split - the other 2 are still just sitting on the Dupont yeast, which so far seems awesome, despite the stuck fermentation horror stories you hear. Really liking it versus the WY 3711 I've used in the past - more complex than the plain citrus and pepper I always got with the French.Didn't even consider blending, but good call...gonna see how it finishes in a month or two and then pull it back with some base beer if necessary. It's my first time using any alternative yeast so I'm looking forward to it.I'm new to the small batch game as well - hoping that brewing 2-3 gallons at a time will keep the beer moving and keep me brewing. Big reason I stopped for the last year or whatever was that I got bored with so much of the same beer sitting around - that and the limitations in an apartment are pretty frustrating, still haven't found an answer for that, partial mash at the moment but would much rather be all grain.So your White IPA - is it an IPA with a witbier influence or something else? New to me, but it seems like that's what most of the commercial examples of that name are...is it wit yeast, spice, or both?[Edited on August 12, 2012 at 11:41 PM. Reason : s]
8/12/2012 11:38:08 PM
It's basically a Belgian Wit base hopped with American hops (& dry-hopped like American IPA) and used some lemongrass & sage in secondary. I posted the recipe a couple pages back:http://www.thewolfweb.com/message_topic.aspx?topic=558927&page=28#15367104It was loosely based on Boulevard's Collaboration #2 they did with Deschuteshttp://www.boulevard.com/BoulevardBeers/collaboration-2/http://www.deschutesbrewery.com/recipe/conflux-no-2-clone[Edited on August 12, 2012 at 11:58 PM. Reason : .]
8/12/2012 11:55:23 PM