You could have a tee in the air pipe after the compressor, with a check valve and a filter to let air in when the compressor is off. Instead of a check valve you could use a solenoid-actuated butterfly valve to close off the atmospheric intake when the compressor kicks on.
1/4/2010 2:22:45 PM
If you're doing the relay thing, there are cheaper SPST relays at $8/ea. I'm thinking it would be none too good to place 3 dead batteries in parallel against your alternator at once. You could built controls to have low-voltage drop-out to keep the batteries from sulfating, and stagger the recharging to 1 battery at a time. You could always mount an on-board 3 bank battery charger to plug in when you get to your destination instead of charging from the alternator. Everything I just covered could also be manually controlled if you should so choose.
1/4/2010 3:56:37 PM
What do you guys think about placing a small radiator inside the air box? I was thinking i could run water though it and kinda make an intercooler, just a thought, not goign to play with it now, but it coudl be a way to cool the intake air and give me a little more power.
1/4/2010 3:58:52 PM
^No, and not worth anything for gains. Might as well put heat sinks on the intake manifold.[Edited on January 4, 2010 at 4:05 PM. Reason : .]
1/4/2010 4:04:27 PM
I have considered going to spst relays, as that may simplify things.Right now i intend to have a voltmeter connected to the batteries.I plan on having another relay to totally disable the system.So options areSystem off-DisabledSystem On-ON WOT onlyI'm slightly worried about switching gears and what that will do, if i suddenly cut power to the motor, and how quickly it will brake, and what that will do to the entire system.If this were goign to be moutned into the car the batteries will have to be relocated to the rear, and high power (thinking 0 or 00 gauge wire would have to be run though the body, ad 36 volts were talking serious power). I'm sure this would easily start a fire and or cause all sorts of hell.As a side note I should have my m90 by the end of the day, hopefully everything measures out.
1/4/2010 4:05:47 PM
Where are the high power spst relays?
1/4/2010 4:07:07 PM
I goofed, they're almost $17 ea. Still cheaper to have two of them than one SPDT.http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Stancor/120-901/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtSzCF3XBhmW1unbvAnCJgICRuyompoXR0%3dUse the search feature to find what you need.--Addition--The motor will spin down slowly. Use THHN or similarly insulated wire for high temps. 1/0 should be enough amps, but depends on your setup. Fuse below what the calculated DC fault (Zf=0?) would be at the end of your cable run (calculate cable length and battery series resistance) so that you don't have a burning fault.--Disclaimer--I assume no responsibility of you being maimed, burned, or killed by this project. My advice should be taken in to consideration only where applicable and appropriate calculations are made.]
1/4/2010 5:02:52 PM
How about the switching speed of relays, when not using double pole, ill have to re do the diagram with single pole, but i have an odd feeling I'm going to have to cascade them in order to make sure there isn't a short.Yea, I slighly remember that When you disconnected a brushed mtoor from a load they slowly spin down (or you can connect them to a load and use the pent up energy as a generator).I think the internal bypass valve will keep the pressure but im afraid during the change ill blow the box with a pressure surge (or possibly not), alot will probalby depend ont he speed of the butterfly valve, if i can move it slwoly using like a servo, then i should be safe.[Edited on January 4, 2010 at 11:00 PM. Reason : dd]
1/4/2010 10:58:21 PM
You need a blow off valve!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111111111111111111111111!!11111!!!!11
1/5/2010 12:39:30 AM
I think the supercharger has a recirculation valve, im jsut not sure hwo that will work in this application. And im probably going to have to move from braced mdf to an actual welded box if this is going into a car.
1/5/2010 9:21:32 AM
Box and stuff mounted, doing battery and motor test at 24v (2 batteries is all i currently have)Well see what happens.
1/7/2010 3:22:22 PM
What are you going to use for a relay?
1/7/2010 4:54:42 PM
Let me reiterate.If you don't have a relay, you need to get a double-pole DC rated circuit breaker to close the circuit. The quick and dirty approach is using a starter solenoid from some wrecked junker.
1/7/2010 6:26:47 PM
Separate yourself from the batteries with some plexiglas too.
1/7/2010 10:15:38 PM
IT BLOWS IT BLOWS!that is all (now to actually do more than make a crappy leaf blower)
1/14/2010 4:52:32 PM
Okay, so i can make boos , but from what i can see, it cant do anythign under wot. Also the blet is slipping, anybody have suggestions for getting a cogged or toothed belt? or do i just need better tensioners?
1/21/2010 9:24:30 AM
1/21/2010 10:56:30 AM
englishdoes you speeaks its??
1/21/2010 11:10:19 AM
I find it difficult due to my problems
1/21/2010 11:35:37 AM
1/21/2010 11:47:06 AM
conservation of energy?
1/21/2010 7:26:07 PM
what is this about belts. thought it was lectric
1/21/2010 7:45:49 PM
i got a belt from the electric motor to turn the supercharger.
1/22/2010 2:47:45 PM
Things actually hooked up going to try to do a dyno run at some point this week.
1/26/2010 10:15:49 AM
this thread is worthless without pics
1/26/2010 5:00:52 PM
1/26/2010 5:18:14 PM
2/8/2010 3:36:22 PM
message_topic.aspx?topic=587973Just sayin...
2/8/2010 5:08:01 PM
Thats gatta be an AC motor, anway, there isnt any way to pratcially make this work from what i can tell, at least not without throwing major money on it for custom fab work, and for that price I might as well just throw a cam at it.That being said, i might try to get the prototype run on at least a dyno once to see if it does anything. its not really mobil[Edited on February 8, 2010 at 10:56 PM. Reason : dd]
2/8/2010 10:55:42 PM