the only way that i would believe that there is a actual problem is if the other manufacturers that use the same platform have the same problems (mazda, volvo, and ford)

11/30/2008 6:29:58 PM

I hate to say it...

2008/9 Honda Civic LX can be had for $17k OTD if you are just looking for a nice point a to point b coupe/sedan.

For a truck, I'm going to try to get a single cab/short bed tundra... If you or anyone else has any opinions on these trucks, please feel free to share. I'm planning to take a look at one shortly...

[Edited on November 30, 2008 at 10:53 PM. Reason : ./]

11/30/2008 10:42:08 PM

damn you people in here have some shitty advice.

buy a cheap reliable car. thats all.

none of this BS is really needed that you people have posted for 2 pages.

11/30/2008 11:00:49 PM

"1996 civic cx"

12/1/2008 7:44:52 AM

saw some civic eg hauling a trailer the other day....beast

12/1/2008 1:10:59 PM

that aint nothing..

12/1/2008 2:14:02 PM

When a car says it can only tow X pounds, what does that really mean? Like if there was a 2000lb tow capacity, and you tried towing 3000lbs, what would be the effect on the vehicle? Is it mostly because of braking/control concerns?

12/1/2008 4:23:38 PM

Depends entirely on the vehicle. Sometimes it is due to wheelbase or braking power. Sometimes it is related to engine power or transmission/drivetrain concerns. Sometimes it is a result of structural integrity of the hitch mounting points.

The Jeep Wrangler comes to mind. It is rated at 2k pounds iirc, but a Grand Cherokee with the same engine is rated at around 5k pounds. In that case I think it is because of the short wheelbase and light weight. It has no trouble getting up to speed with a 4k load, but it doesn't like to stop and braking in a turn is uber sketchy.

Don't consider towing any real distance over capacity though. It can be dangerous or damaging to the vehicle and if you should happen to get into a wreck you can plan on being destroyed in court. It is not worth it.

[Edited on December 1, 2008 at 4:30 PM. Reason : l]

12/1/2008 4:27:03 PM

^^WELL NO SHIT

design intent, vehicle dynamics and the limitations within.


time to stop chasing those unicorns and get a cheap truck + cheap 4-banger

[Edited on December 1, 2008 at 4:28 PM. Reason : slo]

12/1/2008 4:27:47 PM

^^yep, spot on.

it's usually not a concern to overload a 3/4 or 1 ton vehicle, but with something smaller you should stick pretty close to the suggested limit. also consider the issue of being legal. if you're over the gcvwr and get stopped, it can be an issue. some states are lenient, some are real sticklers.

the only downside to a crd liberty is it might be kinda hard to find one. they're not that uncommon, but just be prepared that you might have to travel to get it. they command a fairly big increase in price over their gas counterparts, but i wouldn't worry about that too much. it's a vehicle that should hold resale for years to come, if not actually increase in value if manufacturers don't start getting more diesels into midsize suv's/trucks. in your case, i see no reason to get a "real" truck and a fun dd. it's not like your lotus can't still fill that gap, unless you're planning to make it a dedicated track machine.

12/1/2008 4:56:38 PM

^Yeah, the more I think about it, the more the jeep makes sense to me.

The L is going to remain street legal. After the warranty runs out end of next year it'll be time to go forced induction, but that's about the only mod I ever intend to do to the car. It's a great sunny-day, summer car.

I figured a diesel anything would probably hold it's value pretty well into the future. What would I have to do (if anything) to prep it for biodiesel? We have it at the pump less than 2 miles from my house and although it's currently WAY overpriced, it seems to ebb and flow a lot. Along those lines, diesel out here is insanely more expensive than gas, which makes a diesel vehicle seem like a bit of a gamble.

87 unleaded is ~1.85, diesel is 2.70, biodiesel (99.5) is 3.60

12/1/2008 6:08:46 PM

you don't have to do anything to run biodiesel in one. some people claim the higher percentages of it are prone to attracting moisture, but i've yet to see any solid evidence of that or it causing any problems if it does.

how cold does it get where you live? low temps (like 40 degrees or less) would be my only concern with running b99 unless you install a heater in the tank, on the fuel line, or something. coming from an actual station/pump, they might switch to a different blend in the summer months though. even if they do continue to pump b99 when it's cold, you can always just run like a 50/50 mix of bio and regular diesel to avoid the hassle of installing a warming system.

12/1/2008 6:27:05 PM

dp

[Edited on December 1, 2008 at 6:28 PM. Reason : .]

12/1/2008 6:27:47 PM

Yeah it rarely goes below 40 here, and I was thinking more along the lines of running b20, or b50 purely for cost sake. Doesn't biodiesel actually get less MPG than regular? So I'd be paying more for even less fuel economy? I just really want a car that smells like french fries

12/1/2008 6:32:28 PM

biodiesel will degrade natural and butyl rubber fuel lines and gaskets. if you do start running biodiesel in an older vehicle, i'd definitely replace the fuel lines with some viton lines. one easy way to keep an eye on the fuel lines is to watch for sweating.

the difference in fuel efficiency is negligible - typically not enough to be quantified with varied driving conditions. i've read claims that no 2. diesel fuel contains somewhere around 140000btus/gal and b100 averages 130000btus/gal (meaning a difference in ~7%), but again from my experience I haven't noticed any real difference when it comes down to it.

and if it rarely drops below 40, you probably don't have to worry about gelling. for commercial b100, the worst cloud points are typically right around the freezing mark, although it will vary depending on the feedstock used. commercial b100 will typically gel somewhere around 30F, although again it's tough to find exact figures because of feedstock differences. if you're using biodiesel from tallow, expect it to be much much worse, although if its commercial you won't have to worry about it. if you're getting it from a co-op, i'd definitely find out what their feedstocks are and find out about the cloud point of what they're producing.

12/1/2008 7:42:17 PM

^^oh yeah, b20 and b50 is just fine. if you just want something that smells like french fries, then you better start processing/burning your own straight wvo that you gather exclusively from fast food places.

^this is a vehicle manufactured after ulsd was implemented, so the rubber parts thing should be a non issue for the most part.

12/2/2008 1:46:34 AM

^ right on, i didn't bother reading the entire thread so i didn't catch what model of vehicle.

12/2/2008 6:47:50 PM