so how much does a decent airbrush cost.

8/18/2006 1:00:25 PM

now i am working on an A-10. i havent built a modern plane in a looooooong time, i mainly like doing WWII. i also really only build in the 1-48 scale

8/18/2006 4:53:59 PM

I got my first airbrush (a single action) for $14 from Hungate's, and it came with a can of air. Well worth the investment...I used that AB for over a year. It's good for 1-3 tone paintjobs, and simple camo.

Joshua

8/18/2006 4:58:21 PM

republican u ever thought of building scale model airplanes that can fly? r/c i guess

8/18/2006 8:55:01 PM

^ I use to fly RC with my dad back in the day, and I still keep my AMA liscense up to date. I haven't flown in about six months though. After I graduate with a job and some money, I'll start flying RC again.

8/19/2006 12:05:44 AM

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b102/jabbe/















[Edited on August 19, 2006 at 12:15 AM. Reason : Finally remembered how to post pics. Doh!]

8/19/2006 12:12:01 AM

How did you get those really fine, dark panel lines on the P-47?

8/19/2006 9:03:36 PM

how do you do the pannel lines if the model has the raised lines,

8/19/2006 9:20:57 PM

The lines are done by airbrushing in black lines, then doing final coats over top.

I just don't get how they're so dark and fine. Maybe they were applied with a very very thin brush?



[Edited on August 19, 2006 at 9:37 PM. Reason : .]

8/19/2006 9:36:18 PM

There are two seperate weathering techniques. One is "preshading", the other is "washing".

You can see preshading in the 3rd pic. In preshading, you take a fine airbrush, and lay paint down over the pannel lines. When it's painted over with the topcoat, a little of the black shows through.

Washing is where the pannel lines really jump out. It's easiest to do on a model with recessed pannel lines. Before I "wash" the a/c, I'll put a nice coat of "Future floor polish" to make it smooth (flat paint has a rough surface). Then I mix the wash (5 parts water, 3 parts liquid dishwashing soap, and 2 parts PollyScale acryllic paint). I'll touch the brush to the engraved pannel line, and the paint will run down the groove. After a half hour, I'll wipe off the excess, and I'm left with a sharp, crisp line. You can see this effect really well around the control surfaces of the A-4 (only part of the model what was recessed and not raised).

I'm going to finish an F-4 phantom soon, and I'll post pics when I finish.

Joshua

8/20/2006 3:10:03 AM

I used to be so into this when I was younger, cept all my models were star wars/star trek. I had the big ass enterprise A with the fiber optics in it and shit. I might get into again once I get a job/money.

8/20/2006 3:43:17 AM

I just marked down some models at Hungate's in Cary and when I get in tomorrow night I may work on finding more to mark down. Old ones go to 1/2 off. Basically 5-9 M-Th this week I'll be there

8/20/2006 7:29:02 AM

i have an old as hell iowa class ship model i did, i used to model but jsut ran out of time, and other than the more or less intact iowa, my younger siblings kidna killed all that was left of both my models and the old classic ones my dad had saved up. The post WW2 iowa models suck to put toether, as after ww2 they had enough extra AA gun stations tacked on to take over several small cities. Look for a early war version, or a modernized model with the missile decks added.

8/20/2006 9:45:49 AM

you can also use inks and washes to paint recessed lines. Use drybrushing to paint rased ridges.

ALso if you don't want to deal with mixing your own washes/inks, you can buy them here:

http://store.us.games-workshop.com/storefront/store.us?do=List_Models&code=304328&orignav=300810&GameNav=300810

look near the bottom for "Inks"



[Edited on August 20, 2006 at 10:23 AM. Reason : .]

8/20/2006 10:20:18 AM

I'm working on a 1950 Chevy Stepside, I'll post pics when I get it finished up. It's gonna be a sweet ride...wish I had the real thing, LOL.

8/20/2006 1:29:03 PM

Quote :

"I just marked down some models at Hungate's in Cary and when I get in tomorrow night I may work on finding more to mark down. Old ones go to 1/2 off. Basically 5-9 M-Th this week I'll be there "

That's awesome. I love your 50% off sales. I'll pick up 3-4 models if there's anything good. I'll probabily be in tomorrow.

8/20/2006 10:35:26 PM

heeeelll yeah.... i wish i could get there today!

8/21/2006 10:47:31 AM

if anything is marked down it means it is no longer made/can't get it anymore so if you want it don't hesitate. I should finish up the cars today or tomorrow then move to other stuff

8/21/2006 3:28:21 PM

cheerwiner,

If you can find a Vehicross model, and can ship it, I'd buy it

8/21/2006 3:37:42 PM

where are these hobby stores? I went to cary towne center and crabtree yesterday and saw nothing... b/f is interested in model cars/trucks. I was looking on the directories b/c it was getting late, so maybe I missed it if they weren't listed. What are the best hobby shops around cary and ncsu area?

8/22/2006 8:28:34 AM

hungates - cary town center

8/22/2006 11:18:37 AM

Both of these are Hasegawa 1/72 models. The USAF F-4 is a very old mold, with raised pannel lines. The Navy F-4 is the new mold, and I loved that kit. I have one more to build. The Navy F-4 came from the Ron Barbour estate sale, where he had 1000+ phantom kits. Both Phantoms have pre-shading, and the Navy Phantom has a wash (I'm still learning on how to make a good wash though). I didn't put too much time into the USAF plane, but I am very happy with the Navy build. I also cut the flaps out. Both have 3 tanks which will be added soon. Also, I forgot to add the second gear door on the navy F-4, so that will be added soon. The USAF plane will be hung from my ceiling. Anyhow, enough talk, here are some pics.











(family shot)

Please, feel free to express constructive critisims. I'm still looking to become a better modeler.

Joshua

8/22/2006 4:01:46 PM

dude your very good

8/22/2006 4:11:22 PM

"wash?"

What's that?

8/22/2006 4:35:03 PM

its a method of bringing out the detail of panel lines in a plane, makes the model look really sharp

8/23/2006 1:21:30 AM

yes the model planes that look awesome will almost always use this.

OK so where exactly is my store? It is right next to Sears at Cary Town Mall. You might see a bunch of toys up front, but yes we have tons of models at Hungates.

8/23/2006 8:35:56 AM

If your going to do a good job start out with good supplies.

Airbrush and a good compressor

practice with the airbrush

Learn how paint mixes, i alwasy used oil based paints, but acrylics are good as well.

I usually painted with Humbrol, but you cant really find it around here, its execellent for color matching ww2.

Oh yea,

Pre paint any parts that you dont think will be easily visible, Also they sell this stuff you put on decals to help them blend in better, you use one before you apply the delcale then paint over it about 4 or 5 times to finish it off.

they also have "Dust" paint, if you want to make the model look older.

8/23/2006 9:25:13 AM

heres one i did




it kind of sucks

8/23/2006 4:02:47 PM

Quote :

"If your going to do a good job start out with good supplies. Airbrush and a good compressor practice with the airbrush Learn how paint mixes, i alwasy used oil based paints, but acrylics are good as well. I usually painted with Humbrol, but you cant really find it around here, its execellent for color matching ww2. Oh yea, Pre paint any parts that you dont think will be easily visible, Also they sell this stuff you put on decals to help them blend in better, you use one before you apply the delcale then paint over it about 4 or 5 times to finish it off. they also have "Dust" paint, if you want to make the model look older. "

Some essential tools a modeler needs are: airbrush, future floor polish, sandpaper, filler, xacto knife, tweezers, and patience. Many of my models will take months (but maybe only 10-20 hours of real "labor")

A decent airbrush (dosn't have to cost a lot) and compressor (or spare car tire) is essential. I normally paint with Model Master Enamels, mostly b/c they're easy to find and easy to use. Be sure to buy the half gallon of paint thinner from Home Depot and not from the hobby shop. It'll be a better value, and you should always fully clean your AirBrush.

Also, you can use SolvSet and MicroSol for decals, but you don't have to. Before you tip the decal in warm water, dip it in vinegar for about 10 seconds. Also, lay vinegar down over the area that you wish to put the decal. The acetic acid will help make the decal stick to the plane. Don't panic if the decal wrinkles...just don't touch it, and it'll flatten right out.

8/23/2006 11:50:09 PM

I've got 3 P-47's in the works, but only one is close to getting finished. The middle P-47 is now Olive Drab, and has 2 coats of Future. It'll get decals and will be finished when I get back next week. I would have airbrushed today, but it was raining.

8/31/2006 11:04:40 PM

dude you really seem to love building p47s

9/1/2006 3:38:43 AM

i got a fairly large shipment of stuff in yesterday.

also all of our reference books are 1/2 off. The Osprey company books are pretty cool.

-Tim

9/1/2006 8:21:37 AM

do you have any 1/2 off aircraft?

9/1/2006 3:02:02 PM

Here is the A-10 i just finished, im pretty pleased with it. could have been better but im still ok with it. i usually just do WWII planes though

9/14/2006 8:36:35 AM

not bad

9/14/2006 9:20:56 AM

Looks good Republican 18!

I just finished a P-47N, so I decided to shoot my T-bolt collection:




[Edited on November 16, 2006 at 6:57 PM. Reason : .]

11/16/2006 6:56:04 PM