picked up this bad boy yesterday

7/17/2008 12:35:51 AM

^^^ i think my Firebird's a V. it's a '91, if I remember correctly. I think I paid something like $700 for it about 10 years ago.

[Edited on July 17, 2008 at 2:34 AM. Reason : my other guitars are a mexi-strat and a 60's Gretsch Corvette]

7/17/2008 2:34:09 AM

^^ thats a great tool, its what our other guitar player uses a lot to write his parts + the harmony he wants in our songs without having to wait for me to be around to be a backing track and vice versa.

7/17/2008 12:25:53 PM

on a different note, I am looking for some more interesting ways to change between keys - especially ones that are far apart. I know there are TONS of ways and I've seen other bands do some really cool stuff, but what I generally do I feel is pretty basic and I'd love to learn a few tricks from people who know a lot more than I do. (which isnt that hard to be at that point hehe)

For example, moving to a key based on a chord already in your current key. Lets take the key of C. Its easy to switch into the key of F from the C7 chord. Just like its easy to switch into the key of G using the D7 chord. I know those are pretty elementary tactics but its fairly easy since the key you're switching to is pretty complimentary of the key you're coming from.

But say you are looking at going from D major (D - Em - F#m - G - A - Bm - c#dim) to F# major (F# - G#m - A#m - B - C# - D#m - e#dim). As you can see, they do not share any chords with each other at all and only share a few notes ( F#, B, and C#). Basically, they're pretty far from each other tonally. (although I did get a little lucky when I randomly picked this with the F# and the B heh).

Anywho, the main thing I would use would be to notice that F# = the 5th of B or that B is the IV of an F#(I) - kind of like i mentioned in my second paragraph. So I would just do something like [D A Em F#7]+ [B D#m C#7 F#] to start in the key of D major and end up in F# major pretty smoothly.

Another method is to transition/resolve off of the c#dim chord (C# E G (B) ) to something a half step away from the notes in the diminished chord since, even though this specific dim chord is in a key, it doesnt commit strongly to just 1 particular key. For example after the C#dim from Dmajor, I feel like I could go to a G#m chord from F#major since the G in the c#dim is the diminished 5th that wants to get "pulled up" to a perfect 5th. the G# would be the perfect 5th and the G#m also has a B.

And while both of those work, I feel like they are pretty simple.

Anyone have any tricks for moving between 2 different keys?

7/17/2008 12:58:39 PM

So I've been debating with myself over amps, because I've got a Valve Junior and a Blues Junior and only space for one 1x12 amp in the house. The BJ is too loud to turn up for good cleans in the house, and the VJ is voiced so that it sounds like a roaring Marshall at good house volume, which is not always what I'm looking for.

So I'm getting a Tiny Terror.

MUAHAHAHAHAHHAA

7/17/2008 4:11:37 PM

Check this link:


http://www.eurotubes.com/euro-weber.htm

scroll down to attenuators. Basically they connect between the amp and the speaker so you crank the tubes then roll off the actual volume.

7/18/2008 12:11:26 PM

15 watts really isn't too much to use in the house for short periods of time, but the BJ sounds kind of boxy anyway and I don't feel like modding it. The real key is that the Tiny Terror can do serviceable cleans (as good as EL84s can do anyway) as well as quality mid/hi-gain stuff, and do it at both volumes.

Also, I had a THD attenuator for a while back when I was using 100 watt head and never really liked it that much.

7/18/2008 1:06:44 PM

Is your BJ the black one or the tweed?

7/18/2008 2:48:39 PM

Lacquered tweed with the factory Jensen. The black one with the stock speaker sounds so boxy I turned it off after two minutes in the store.

7/18/2008 2:55:22 PM

sweet

7/18/2008 4:10:40 PM

http://www.truetemperament.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25&Itemid=42

what is this funny business?

7/20/2008 10:57:27 AM

Guitars use tempered tuning, where every note is equidistant from the ones above and below it. While this is mathematically correct for perfect intonation, it doesn't exactly work in practice. That's why an open A chord on a guitar doesn't sound quite right even when the guitar is tuned perfectly. There are a number of systems that have been created to help alleviate this problem and make the guitar more even-tempered across its entire fretboard (like a piano), including the bent/curved fret system and the Buzz Feiten system that includes moving the nut and some other minor modifications.

7/20/2008 2:56:30 PM

oh yeah i know.

i read the faq no that site and it explained it atll.

7/20/2008 10:18:12 PM

yea my teacher brought that up last year. I had never known about that. I saw some other people's designs as well. You can hear the difference on your own guitar if you play open chords you can slightly sharpen for flat one or two of your strings (specific ones depending on the chord not just random ones heh) and the chord you are playing sounds so much more full. But then switch chords and you sound completely out of tune.

7/21/2008 7:58:01 AM

i honestly always thought it was just my guitar being setup wrong is why it did exactly what you're describing ^

good to know

7/21/2008 8:04:05 AM

haha yea. I think its all pretty interesting but I dont think Im worried about it enough to get one of the special setups.

[Edited on July 21, 2008 at 8:32 AM. Reason : ]

7/21/2008 8:31:31 AM

i'm not worried enough to pay 1500 for a guitar neck.



odd timings ftw.

7/21/2008 12:40:44 PM

The Feiten system isn't too expensive to have implemented, but it's a pain in the ass to tune because the strings have to be done in a certain order at all times and it's not as simple as regular A440, etc.

7/21/2008 1:23:39 PM

finally got around to adjusting intonation, truss rod and action on mine.. jesus the action was way too low.. rattling is gone and it's actually a lot easier to play now even though technically it's a bit more effort

i guess i just got used to it and didnt notice how bad it was oops

7/22/2008 8:58:18 PM

got this today



gave me a reason to rebind all my pc cables and seperate the audio cables, and finally organize a semi-nice MIDI setup for the microkorg and sr-16.

7/23/2008 2:01:55 AM

i finally bought a 5150 combo amp.

$575, free shipping (for a fucking 80 pound amp) and a free boss noise suppressor and adapter. And a set of unused 5150 tubes (2-Sovtek6L6 High-Gain and 5-Ruby 12AX7 High-Gain)



[Edited on July 23, 2008 at 2:07 AM. Reason : i get the best fucking deals]

7/23/2008 2:05:36 AM

i got a tiny terror yesterday

much creamier than the valve junior (though there's a rattiness to the VJ that means i'll probably keep it) and the head form means none of the boxy sound of the compact 1x12 combo that i was using

good times

7/23/2008 1:44:58 PM

^^ good stuff. I really enjoyed my 5150 stack when I had it (which was probably about 3 years worth of writing recording and shows), but I just eventually wanted something a little more versatile.

7/23/2008 1:49:04 PM

the stack is a little bit better just because you have options with cabs without having to replace speakers.

7/23/2008 2:36:24 PM

well sure, but until you are utilizing one, a combo is sure a heck of a lot easier to transport.

7/23/2008 3:11:24 PM

I guess, but i drive a truck and don't really see my self touring anywhere outside of NC in the next 4 years so it wouldn't have been a huge problem either way. It only weighs like 15 pounds less than the average 4x12

7/23/2008 3:57:41 PM

true. i guess im just thinking of the fact that every show loading and unloading from our practice space I have to go down an ungodly narrow and steep staircase and my 75lb combo amp is a breeze and the 110lb 4x12 is a PITA because of the size and awkwardness of getting down the steps

[Edited on July 23, 2008 at 4:12 PM. Reason : ]

7/23/2008 4:12:43 PM

it all depends on whether or not your combo has casters or handles on the sides

i had an AC30 with no casters that was a bitch even with the three handles, because it had no handles in the side of the cabinet

the 4x12 i now have is much easier to move

although it looks fucking ridiculous with the tiny terror, lol

7/23/2008 5:05:04 PM

if it doesn't have casters i'll be building a base frame for that bitch pronto.

not sure if i want to drill into the tolex

7/23/2008 6:07:04 PM

so who knows a lot about retrofitting / routing for floating trems?


its time for me to get rid of my Lo-Pro Edge.

[Edited on July 24, 2008 at 10:04 AM. Reason : will probably just look it up on jemsite.]

7/24/2008 10:04:39 AM

jemsite ftw

7/24/2008 10:21:48 AM

yeah seriously.


i've done all the measurements but idk if theres something i should be looking for other than the two posts and making sure that it fits the spring block and the actual width on the top of the guitar.

7/24/2008 10:29:50 AM

unfortunately I dont know that much about setting guitars up/installing hardware or electronics or anything. (although I might try and build my own replica S540LTD DY/Yellow later this year if I have enough money after getting one of the other non-metal guitars I want). Wish I did but that site is a great resource for that kind of stuff.

7/24/2008 10:34:02 AM

Let me share two GREAT resources.

the first is:

http://smartflix.com/

They are like netflix, but stock serious DIY stuff, including Dan Erlewine's entire set of lutherie
videos. everything from basic set-up to refretting. This guy is one of the tops in the field and I got a shit load of info from these dvd's. Dan also builds guitars including the Erlewine Lazer that Johnny Winter has played for the past 20 years.

The other is:

http://www.stewmac.com/

almost everything you need to do your own stuff right.

The smartflix rentals are not cheap, but compared to buying them direct, big bang for the buck.
(they are like $9 each disk, and you get them for a week) also, they can be slow to arrive and some have a waiting list, but it was all worth it to me.

7/25/2008 6:34:24 PM

anyone picked up the new jeff loomis cd?

i mean its exactly what you would expect. 60 minutes of sweeping and tremolo picking, but if you like nevermore its like every nevermore song without verses or lyrics in the choruses.


one of the songs from the cd is a medley of unfinished tracks that he previously recorded with some new solos.

7/28/2008 2:22:14 AM

definitely getting a Schaller FRT-II next.

8/6/2008 4:10:27 PM

whoa this is pretty cool.

8/6/2008 5:56:48 PM

there are three vibrato units that i support

1. bigsby w/ roller bridge
2. jazzmaster/jaguar unit with original barrel bridge saddles
3. pushing down on the upper bout and up on the neck simultaneously

you crazy metalheads

8/6/2008 8:44:42 PM

i have to admit though, my ZR2 bridge literally never comes out of tune. I play my guitar a few hours a day with a lot of bending and some full whammy action on a few of our songs and I tune it every few weeks at MOST. Its pretty crazy.

8/6/2008 9:01:02 PM

i love my edge but it doesn't flutter as well as it did when i first got it and i don't want to have to rotate the posts. idk about cam systems though..

8/6/2008 9:13:35 PM

I'm sure I could google this.. but how often do you guys change strings? Hearing you only TUNE your guitar every few weeks make it seem that your strings last a hell of a lot longer than mine..

Breaking 13's is interesting

8/6/2008 9:48:21 PM

If you stretch your stretch your strings out well when you first put them on you probably wont break that many after they are on (though I break some stretching them initially). I hardly ever break any while playing. If im not playing shows Ill leave the strings on for a LONG time. Even then like once a month at most for me.

8/6/2008 10:04:23 PM

i used to do it religiously every three weeks, but now it's maybe every six

are you getting breakage near the bridge? especially with 13s, i'd think that if you're breaking them on a routine basis you've got a rubbing point somewhere in the innards of the bridge or a burr on the saddle that is causing premature breakage

8/7/2008 11:40:56 AM

that would be my guess too. and yea i just dont like changing the strings on my float if I dont have to heh. I love using it but im too lazy to restring it often.

8/7/2008 1:01:31 PM

the best thing about the tremol-no is changing strings is just as easy as a fixed bridge and as long as you make sure they're stretched out you can go right back into full floating mode.

8/7/2008 2:05:35 PM

i'll check where they're breaking when I get home.. I'm pretty sure the last few have been near the bridge so very possible I don't have something setup right.

8/7/2008 2:27:05 PM

^^ ive gone back and forth on trying that out.

8/7/2008 3:08:24 PM

if you can manage to get it set up so that it is perfectly 90 degrees then you honestly will not notice any difference, but if you're the slightest bit off then theres way too much tension in the bar and its just another added friction point to your bridge.

8/7/2008 6:22:14 PM

fuck guitar i wanna learn how to play drums.

8/9/2008 2:00:03 PM

^^ yea ive heard something similar

8/9/2008 2:00:42 PM