a couple of nicks on the handle (black plastic underneath), one 3/4 deep scratch on a door (metal), and 3 or 4 nicks on the back bumper (black plastic)

i've never touched up a car before, so i'm looking for any advice for doing a not-awful job on it myself

i've waxed it twice (nu finish), so i assume i want to remove that before applying the touch up...will goof off/goo gone or isopropyl alcohol work?

suggested number of applications and procedure? sand between coats or only when done? what grit? clearcoat after?

i can get a new OEM mazda paint pen off fleabay for $11...it's a "pearl" color, so i don't know how likely it is that i can find a non-OEM match locally for the same or less

7/17/2014 2:26:29 PM

I've had great luck with Dr. ColorChip for rock chips but I've never tried it on scratches, in my experience the paint pens have always looked shitty even when taking my time. Dr ColorChip will be able to match your OEM color.

7/17/2014 2:32:21 PM

Dr. Color Chip didn't work on scratches for me.

7/18/2014 9:25:14 AM

yeah, i met a rep at a BMW meetup a few years ago, they were demonstrating it on an old car and the results were pretty good so I bought some. the rep said it wasn't really designed for scratches but if the scratch had defined edges (i.e. kinda like a long chip) then it would cover okay but wouldn't really work at all for scuffs or anything like that. on my car when i used it on rock chips you could still see the shape of the chip afterwards but from a distance it blended perfectly and the color matched perfectly.

the rep also said that metallic/pearlescent paints were harder to match

7/18/2014 10:34:40 AM

^same for me. you could always see the repair when near, but at a distance it was fine. It's more about protecting the metal from rusting than a true repair. If you want paint damage repaired, you have to get a real paint job.

7/18/2014 10:51:28 AM

i watched a guy using an OEM-supplied paint pen perform a touch-up and make it blend seamlessly. He blobbed the paint on the nick so it was overfilled. After it dried he used 1500 grit sandpaper and sanded the blob down even with the factory paint. Then he buffed the sand marks. Once he was done I swear you could not tell where the nick was.

7/19/2014 8:53:25 AM

^ is car paint different than other types of paint? seems to me manufacturers always call for several thinner layers instead of a single thick one

also, thoughts on prepping the area? i've got several applications of nu finish (which is a...polish? instead of a wax, right?) and i assume i need to remove that before application in order to maximize adhesion

and then do i apply a clearcoat on top, once i'm happy with the paint and sanding?

7/22/2014 12:39:49 PM

what year and make is your car? i.e. water or solvent based paint?

7/22/2014 7:18:50 PM

If you want to really take your time, check this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xi3xmeO6C4

For you, if there's not metal undereath (i.e. rust potential), I don't think you need to sand to start with. I would thoroughly clean (a quick wash with 'dawn' dish soap in the local area will strip the area of wax, then dry with a towel that has some alcohol on it to be sure). Once clean, ensure the chip has no loose edges. Actually, if there are loose edges, make this step one. Apply your touch up pen. Wait a while, it will dry up and eventually recess into the chip and leave you with exposed edges. Touch up round 2 once it has recessed (about 1 day or so). Lastly, you could sand, I guess, but you're just going to need to polish the sand marks away, so you may as well polish it down and skip the sand stage, IMO. Wax and seal when done.

[Edited on July 22, 2014 at 7:49 PM. Reason : ]

7/22/2014 7:45:30 PM

2010 mazda3 hatch

7/22/2014 7:45:46 PM