Whatever idiot did the brakes last on my bike (first time I've had to replace pads since I bought it) used an absolutely retarded amount of thread locker on all the caliper bolts. I've been able to break them all free with varying degrees of difficulty using combinations of brute strength, penetrating oil, torch, hammering, etc, but the pad retaining bolt (recessed 5mm hex) on my rear caliper absolutely will not budge. Ended up destroying 2 hex wrenches before finally rounding the fucker off. Got a 4-6mm extractor from Advance, drilled it out, tapped the extractor in, and the end broke off within about 30sec of torquing it. This is what I'm stuck with:I don't really know what to do next but I need this fucker out ASAP. I don't have any welding equipment. I thought about squooging some high-torque RTV in there around the allen key and letting it cure to try and keep it from slipping but I imagine that'd only make a big fucking mess. Any suggestions?[Edited on January 6, 2013 at 9:37 PM. Reason : asldkfjas;dfk]
1/6/2013 9:24:22 PM
it doesn't do you much good now, but usually heat is the best way to handle loctite.i'd find someone who can weld a bolt on it, then melt the loctite.
1/6/2013 9:39:59 PM
yeah the torch didn't do anything for this one. I'll go the welding route if it comes to it, just looking for any other simple genius before I go to that trouble
1/6/2013 9:53:18 PM
i wonder what homeboy put on the threads
1/6/2013 10:15:50 PM
JB Weld. :beatup :
1/6/2013 10:38:05 PM
i'm starting to feel like it hahaalso, I have such a love/hate relationship with bikebandit...easy to find the exact OEM part and then pay 4x what you should for it
1/6/2013 10:46:22 PM
1/6/2013 11:09:44 PM
[Edited on January 6, 2013 at 11:31 PM. Reason : .]
1/6/2013 11:11:21 PM
I think I'm gonna see if I can drill it out with a bigger bit and try the extractor again...failing that, try to grind a couple flat spots on the exposed part of the pin and see if I have any luck with a wrench. If no luck there, gonna try to drill a hole or two perpendicular to the bolt axis and see if I can't get something through it to get some leverage (would be nice if my leather awl would fit and hold up to some serious torque)anyway, all has to wait till tomorrow
1/6/2013 11:49:43 PM
nothing like baked on loctite.
1/7/2013 7:46:52 AM
my money is on red loctite!
1/7/2013 7:51:18 AM
if it weren't for the broken extractor, I'd get a drill bit and drill the set screw to smithereens
1/7/2013 6:00:19 PM
use a 4 flute carbide ball endmill.
1/7/2013 9:28:16 PM
Is this for all complaints or just paerabol's? lolMy fucking tail lights on the 64 valiant, I thought they were working. Electrical things are not my strong suit...Press brake pedal, both lights fine.Left turn signal, fine.Right turn signal, fine.Brakes + right turn signal, fine.Brakes + left turn signal, just the signal and no right brake light. Fuck!So god damn annoying! How do I fix?
1/8/2013 12:43:35 PM
when you shut off the left turn signal does the right brake light come on?
1/8/2013 2:17:08 PM
Yes.
1/9/2013 5:09:17 PM
1/9/2013 11:05:28 PM
took the die grinder to it to make some flat spots on the top and bottom of the pin and torched it again while wrenching on it...broke it about 90 degrees and repeated process. took over an hour but I got the fucker out. here's the offender:
1/13/2013 8:48:36 PM
I'm so very happy for you. Didn't realize you could get pliers on the back of the bolt, that does make things easier.Now be sure to use plenty of threadlocker when you reassemble. Actually, a dab of medium strength threadlocker shouldn't be a problem. At the very least clean the threads and torque it down to spec, you don't want that bolt going AWOL in the future.Allen head bolts are terrible. Torx are nearly as bad. Great for manufacturers, but they don't hold up over the long term.[Edited on January 13, 2013 at 9:49 PM. Reason : .]
1/13/2013 9:40:43 PM
yeah some of the allen bolts on this bike baffle me. Like a rear brake MC reservoir heat shield bolt that sits directly behind the forward exhaust pipe, making it damn near impossible to get to and turn more than 30* at a time. The kicker: the outside of the bolt head is smooth and round so I can't get a wrench on it. assholes. Anyway, thanks. Just to piss off smoothcrim I've been putting a dab of blue loctite on errythang. figger it out yet y0willy0?
1/13/2013 10:45:11 PM
That looks like a huge pain, Dave. Glad you got it going.For y0willy0's tail light problem, almost every time I've seen something like that happen, it has been due to poor grounding. Whether there's a wire or the ground comes from direct contact with the housing and the car body, it's a good place to start checking with a voltmeter.
1/14/2013 8:11:32 AM
No luck yet but I'm going to take ^this suggestion.Thanks for the suggestion cementguy!God knows I can feel for you paerabol. I broke a few studs on that Ford 260 I was taking apart the other day and they're going be fun to dig out. I decided since nobody wanted to buy it that I would rebuild it about 90% and re-assemble it in such a way that my 6yo nephew can easily take it apart and learn about engines.Not putting the rings on the pistons, not torquing everything properly, etc. Should be an interesting exercise that makes him less of a sissy.
1/14/2013 3:51:54 PM
Valiant ate a piston ring.Yaaay.
3/6/2013 11:06:58 AM
want ford power? 352 is almost out
3/6/2013 12:04:57 PM
Not exactly what I had in mind.
3/6/2013 4:13:45 PM
Lol (you do know I despise cross brand swaps right ?)
3/6/2013 5:24:56 PM
3/6/2013 6:08:22 PM
http://m.sears.com/productGallery.do
3/6/2013 6:16:46 PM
was about to say there are ratchets available with 84-teeth
3/7/2013 7:34:02 AM
I for the life of me can not go into sears anymore. The dumb fucks don't know a fuckingthing about tools.
3/7/2013 10:27:59 PM
Then that is where you should go.
3/8/2013 1:32:15 AM
Speaking of tools
3/8/2013 10:27:58 PM