So I've read the rules pretty closely this year and it looks like I can do whatever I want to the stock ECU but I can't replace it or add any piggy backs for the classes I'm riding in. I found a company called Flash-Tune that offers software that rivals stand alone quality management for the STOCK ECU. Looks like I can gain a good 10-15WHP (~9%).

My question is what are the thoughts and general rules of thumb for tuning to a particular fuel? The gas station down the street has E85 and I thought about tuning for that, but I'd have to buy more gas cans to make sure I could get through 2-3 full days. Do I want to use a 91 base tune and assume 93 might not always be 93? I need more power but I also need this motor to make it through the whole season. I don't care to run a fuel I can't get everywhere, so no 100+ octane tunes

3/10/2012 1:59:46 PM

ok

1: no stock ecu will equal a good stand alone... if they do process as fast as a stand alone its because they're managing more then the engine alone. And even then any stand-alone is only as good as the tuner. (except the ones that "self tune" fuel with o2 sensor feedback.)

2: your stock ecu can compensate for bad gas.

3: converting to e:85 requires 30% more fuel and your current injectors & fuel pump may not be able to flow that much not to mention e85 around here sits for a long time and can have a high water content and doesn't always run consistently.

[Edited on March 10, 2012 at 2:09 PM. Reason : .]

3/10/2012 2:05:27 PM

1) I'm not saying this is a motronic or haltec or black box, but it's pretty solidly ahead of any piggy back. The bike has a factory O2 sensor
http://www.flash-tune.com/?wpsc-product=06-07-yamaha-r6-ecu-tuning-interface
Here's a vid for a good look at what I'm working with


3) good call about e85 sitting, hadn't thought of that - though I think about it every time I buy diesel durrr

tuning for 93 it is then

3/10/2012 3:26:16 PM

It looks pretty basic as these things go. One thing I don't see is any kind of data logging capability, which could be a pain. It's hard to make changes without any kind of instrumentation.

Do these engines have knock sensors? If you don't have any way to detect knock, exhaust temperature, air fuel ratio, or critical things like that you will have trouble knowing what settings to change.

[Edited on March 10, 2012 at 5:02 PM. Reason : .]

3/10/2012 5:02:27 PM

without droppin 2k on a haltec or the like, you're not getting that on a bike

3/10/2012 6:24:48 PM

I always subscribed to the idea that knock sensors are useless over 4000rpm (in a 4 cyl car, at least)

[Edited on March 10, 2012 at 7:13 PM. Reason : ]

3/10/2012 7:13:41 PM

lol, my bike is worthless below 10k rpm

3/10/2012 11:59:37 PM

Knock sensors are always useful once you can filter out engine noise.
It would be neat to see mor bike stuff, since they don't have to pass emissions I assume base maps for timing and fuel are completely different.

3/11/2012 12:49:43 AM

get a bike with carbs.

3/12/2012 11:07:51 AM

ahaha - why don't I get a kick starter while at it

3/12/2012 2:04:24 PM

yeah because carbs made my v-max so goddamn slow.

3/12/2012 2:05:13 PM

I think the 600+ pounds made it slow

3/12/2012 2:22:03 PM

no that part just made it clumsy!

3/12/2012 4:43:04 PM

Quote :

"why don't I get a kickstarter while i'm at it"

Why don't you delete the starter, replace the battery with a lightweight Lithium one to run the electrics and roll start it like a real road racer?

3/12/2012 4:53:49 PM

and a magneto!

3/12/2012 5:25:55 PM

I have a lightweight lithium battery - I made it with parts from a hobby shop. I thought about removing the whole charging system but I don't have a crew so push starting by myself wouldn't be a good look. Also, I'm not exactly skill capped so I'm not sure all that is necessary to win more races.

3/12/2012 5:30:12 PM

So the lithium battery holds up to starting amps? That's cool, I'd heard people say they wouldn't last. You could also leave the crank bolt exposed and crank it with a heavy duty drill. Nothing wrong with roll starting though; all the European road races used to require the riders to push start their own bike...while the clock was running!

This is how the old timers went fast...drill out all that excess aluminum...inside the engine as well. When it explodes you know you've removed a little too much. Like you said though, it seems silly today when the weakest link on a modern bike is the skill level of the upper chassis member between the seat and the bars.


The E85 could be worth it, especially if you shave the head and bump the compression as much as the ethanol allows. Since it burns so much cooler you might could even start shaving parts from the cooling system...or at least reduce the area of radiator exposed for a smoother airstream.

[Edited on March 12, 2012 at 10:09 PM. Reason : .]

[Edited on March 12, 2012 at 10:10 PM. Reason : .]

3/12/2012 10:04:40 PM

heh, at 18k rpm, I'd be worried about weakening the block. that's pretty diligent work though

http://shop.durbahn.de/shop/en/bikes/Honda_-_SP2__and__RC51?bikecat=46

I meant motec, not motronic, but that's the drop off between stand alone and the best alternatives.

3/13/2012 8:57:41 AM

Motec is just a crazy good ems i mean there is a reason it's as expensive as it is. Its race quality stuff..


E85 would be awesome. if you switch let me know how it goes, i'm thinking about switching on my subaru but i've heard issues with high water content at least from the cruizers off 55 that has it. And it isn't a consistent problem.... just random bad tanks when the supply gets old.

3/13/2012 9:02:38 AM

I'd be going to the texaco on new bern that has e85 for less than octane

3/13/2012 11:29:03 AM

im not sure more power was useful... all I did was shred my tire while I was searching for grip. in a lot of turns. CMP has gotten slimey in the last year

3/20/2012 10:23:34 AM