something caused my rear tire to deflate pretty quickly today...a cursory search didn't show me anything obvious, but when i left the house it was fine and when i got to school, it was pretty flati actually rode it the 2 miles back home (at 15mph) rather than leaving it at school...i assume the rim is finein any case, do i need to pick up a new tire, a new tube, or both? the tire size is 80/90-14 (and i think 45P, but it might be 40P)...like i said, the tire itself SEEMS to be fine, but i've never replaced a scooter or motorcycle tire before, just car tires and bike tires[Edited on November 20, 2009 at 5:37 PM. Reason : something like this: http://www.bikebandit.com/irc-nr77-motorcycle-tire]
11/20/2009 5:23:34 PM
also...can i put wider tires on there? if so, how wide do you think i can get away with? are there any name brand tires that are preferable? the most common seems to be IRC NR77 for about $18-20http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=543566http://www.sportsxgear.com/irc/pr-bodyparts-irc-motorcycle-tires-scooter-nr77.htmhttp://www.streetbikerider.com/h-bodyparts/irc/pr-bodyparts-irc-motorcycle-tires-scooter-nr77.htmhttp://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/5/32/404/20925/ITEM/IRC-NR77-Rear-Scooter-Tire.aspx?SiteID=CSE_GBase_404&WT.mc_ID=80003&zmam=88421133&zmas=1&zmac=2&zmap=20925
11/20/2009 6:12:44 PM
If it has a tube, just replace the tube. Cycle gear has the common sizes for bikes on the shelf. I don't know about scooters. You can bring it by and I'll show you how to change it. It's essentially the same as a bicycle tire, just more of a pain and it will need to be balanced(also easy).If it's a tubeless tire you've got a hole somewhere.
11/20/2009 10:41:44 PM
There is prolly some tubes at the shop. No need to replace the tire. Get yourself some good tire spoons and pledge...You can thank me later
11/21/2009 1:51:05 AM
I just had this same problem. Replace the tube, it will just go flat again.
11/21/2009 3:09:45 PM
awesome, thanks for the input i assume one (or two?) of these for $6/each will work: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93230
11/21/2009 3:48:41 PM
Yeah, at least two. The thinner the better, regular car tire irons are too thick. I've got two pretty much just like the ones you linked to. Mix up water and dish soap in a spray bottle and spray around the rim for lubrication. Put one tire iron in and work the other around until one side of the tire is out(this can be frustrating). Pull the old tube out. Some people put baby powder in the tire to help the tube slide around if it needs to. Put the new tube in, attach the valve stem nut(there are different types of valve stems, be sure to get a tube with the right one). Inflate the tube slightly so that it will hold its shape. Work the tire sidewall back on, taking care not to pierce the fragile tube.If you have pretty aluminum rims, you'll want to use plastic rim guards or you'll fuck your rim all up. I have these and some irons if you want to borrow them.
11/21/2009 5:11:22 PM
when you take the tube out make sure you drag a paper towel or rag around the inside of the tire and see if it snags on anything sharp
11/22/2009 11:33:07 AM
^true
11/22/2009 11:34:23 AM
Very tr00.
11/23/2009 11:40:31 AM
or just be a man and run your fingers around in there
11/23/2009 7:27:08 PM
alright, i admit my extreme n00bness/inexpertise/general suck at this...i can't for the life of me remove the wheel OR the tirethere's no way for me to lock the wheel in place so i can remove the 24mm bolt that keeps it on the axle (i've already removed the exhaust) and there's no way for me to lock something between the wheel spokes and the belt case to keep it from spinning (i've tried, but the angle isn't right)...when i put it on the kickstand instead of the center stand, it just rolls backwardthinking i could remove the tire and replace the tube without removing the wheel, i tried to soap it up and wedge tire irons between the tire and the wheel (using folded cutting sheets to avoid scratching my aforementioned "pretty aluminum rims" ), it would spin and i never could get enough purchase to pull the tire over the wheel (i came close, but then succeeded in punching through the cutting sheet and scratching my pretty aluminum rims)suggestions? i realize that in theory this is pretty easy (it's really just like a bicycle wheels and i've replaced a number of those), but for someone without experience or, apparently, basic competence, it's a PITA...i DO want to avoid damaging the wheels because they DO look niceis there a stand or wheel lock i could buy that would allow me to lock the wheel in place so i could remove it? or am i going about this the wrong way? i bought the tube from cycle gear and they said they'd replace it for $5, but i can't get it down there (i obviously can't ride it, and i don't have a trailer)...i would be happy to pay someone more if they could come over and do it (obviously i'd help if i wouldn't be getting in the way), but i want to see it done so that i can hopefully do it in the future...let me know if you'd do it (or would be willing to pick it up and take it back to your place if you've got equipment there and i'd throw in some money for gas) and how muchthxu
12/30/2009 5:46:31 PM
many thanks to smc
12/30/2009 10:29:12 PM
12/30/2009 10:40:33 PM
maybe smc will post...that rear wheel was a bitchhonda has this special nut that keeps it tight on the axle bolt...there's no lock pin on the bolt and the nut tightens the farther onto the bolt it goes (but not like any lock nut i've ever seen)...i'll take a picture of it lateri don't know what to tell you...no doubt someone COULD do it by themselves, but it wasn't that easy...i (at 225lbs) had to sit on the scoot and lock both brakes while smc practically sat on the wrench to get it off...again, MAYBE y'all could get it off on your own, but i think it's a combination of that special nut, high torque, and the fact that the scoot doesn't weigh a thing (compared to a motorcycle) that made it difficultin any case, i appreciated his help*shrug*[Edited on December 30, 2009 at 10:55 PM. Reason : .]
12/30/2009 10:55:27 PM
you needed an impact wrench
12/30/2009 11:06:27 PM
that would have been useful
12/30/2009 11:36:38 PM
The axle nut(loose term, the axle hangs out the side and the wheel/brake drum bolts directly to the splined end of the axle) had two tiny shims in the threads. I've seen disintegrating laminated axle nuts before, but this one is a new one for me. The nut went on easy the first couple turns then got tight. Took about 150lb-ft to bust it and since it seats directly on the wheel the thing wanted to roll. Eh, something different.[Edited on January 1, 2010 at 6:55 PM. Reason : I'd feel better with a cotter pin in it.]
1/1/2010 6:54:01 PM
so did you finally fix this? can we go riding now?
1/3/2010 12:04:01 AM
^ it appears to be good...it doesn't appear that i clipped the tube or anything, and it seems to be holding air (though the cap the tube came with broke when i was screwing the valve in, so it's not in all the way...i need to fix that)but until it the weather stops violating my rule of 40's (at/over 40°F and at/under 40% chance of precip), i'm not riding
1/4/2010 7:35:42 AM
youre such a pussy... I'm riding today
1/4/2010 9:16:37 AM
back tire says something like max load 375lbs at 41 PSI (cold)...41 seems awfully high (the front is 33 PSI)...does that seem right?
1/13/2010 1:12:01 PM
dont go by the psi printed on side of tire. set psi at manufacturer specs.
1/14/2010 7:11:15 AM
i like this bump-old-threads-without-a-mod-or-premie thing i noticed some cracking (dry rot?) in the treads of my front tire last year and then recently noticed some in my rear tire (both are original and have about 7500 miles on them)...also, the rear tire is mostly bald (center tread is gone)...i don't ride in the rain and i don't USUALLY go above 45-50mph, though i occasionally hit 64-65mph if i'm on one of the larger roadsFRONT: 70/90-14 M/C 34P (with disc brakes)REAR: 80/90-14 M/C 46P (with drum brakes)anyway, i'm posting because (as noted above), the rear tire was a pain to get off and i don't have any way to lock the wheel so i can get the amount of torque required...i was thinking getting something to lock the wheel in place, but i'm not sure if they sell anything like that (or if it's worth purchasing)thoughts? would a chock do that? harbor freight had a couple of them: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=motorcyclealso, replace the tubes at the same time, or if they seem fine (and they do, so far), don't bother? the brakes are original as well...replace them while i'm at it?
3/20/2013 9:31:04 AM
It's a damn liquor cycle. Run them til they won't hold air.
3/20/2013 10:50:57 AM
^ except that i'm not really comfortable with the tire peeling apart at 65mph
3/20/2013 11:13:23 AM
Pussy
3/20/2013 11:19:00 AM
nrr ftw
3/20/2013 12:30:27 PM
i admit it...i'm not thrilled with the prospect of dying/being maimed/broken bones/becoming a paraplegic/minor road rashi went ahead and picked up something like this for $10:figured i could put the wheel in it, then slide something through the spoke so that when it tries to move, it will catch
3/20/2013 2:32:50 PM