Never done this before myself and only know what I have read. Getting ready to assemble the new heads and rockers tomorrow.

From what I understand I should:
1.) Tighten all of them to 21 ftlbs first
2.) With the valve closed and the compression released on the lifter, loosen the nut until i feel just a slight resistance turning the push rod.
3.) Then tighten the nut back about 1/4 turn.
4.) Tighten the set screw to lock it into place.

Pretty much sum it up or am I way the hell off. Thanks for the help.

11/13/2009 8:22:26 PM

sums it up pretty good!

11/13/2009 8:25:24 PM

^ he would know. And check...you're good to go.

[Edited on November 14, 2009 at 1:28 AM. Reason : ,]

[Edited on November 14, 2009 at 1:28 AM. Reason : your...meh]

11/14/2009 1:27:50 AM

i always just fire it up with the valve cover off, loosen them till they start ticking, then go in a 1/2 turn

thats on hydrualic, which i am assuming you are talking about, if you are doing it on engine assembly, make sure the lifters don't have oil in them

i think you have step 2 and 3 backwards, you tighten it until you can't turn the pushrod easily, to collapse the lifter, then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn

it would help to know what engine this is

11/14/2009 8:34:50 AM

87 sbf 5.0

[Edited on November 14, 2009 at 8:35 AM. Reason : ..]

11/14/2009 8:35:35 AM

ok, i got you now, i re-read your first post

they way you are doing it, you need to turn the engine until the exhuast valve on #1 is just starting to open, the do the intake valve, and vice versa for each cylinder

you loosen the nut until the pushrod moves up and down with some slack, you should be able to freely wiggle the rocker arm and hear a little clacking

then slowly tighten the nut until all the slack is just taken out

on a 5.0, 1/4 is for roller cams only, it will rattle like hell, you need to turn in 1/2 to 3/4 past zero lash for flat tappet lifters, which should give you .030-.040" preload

make sure you hold the nut tight when you lock the set screw, if not, all the careful work you just did is a waste

11/14/2009 8:53:16 AM

^this is a roller cam.

ive only done one cylinder thus far because I wanted to check the vtp clearance first and go from there. I adjusted the one cylinder, everything went pretty much as indicated below. Problem is when I pulled off the rocker I noticed the bottom of it is rubbing against the shank of the rocker stud, see pic...



Pushrod length looks to be off just a bit as the roller isnt dead center on the valve but I dont think thats it. Wrong studs? Cant be normal can it?

[Edited on November 14, 2009 at 10:49 AM. Reason : ...]

11/14/2009 10:49:08 AM

talking with the doug herbert performance hes saying push rods def too short. wonderful now I get to buy a gage.

11/14/2009 11:25:00 AM

my dad always did it with a feeler gauge between the valve and rocker

11/14/2009 11:51:47 AM

The OFFICIAL t-dub way requires the use of one special tool: a butter knife

11/14/2009 12:23:37 PM

theres a method to this? I just torque them down to 21lbs and done...maybe thats why my passengers' side is chattering a tiny bit... but I have non adjustable crane 1.7 roller rockers that were factory on the 93 cobras with GT40 heads.

11/14/2009 1:55:26 PM

Are they stud mount rockers or pedestal? What heads?

What brand rockers?

11/14/2009 6:25:35 PM

pro form rockers, stud mount, doug herbert 190cc heads

11/14/2009 6:33:58 PM

they should start about on the bottom 1/3 closed, and end up at the top 1/3 when open for the contact on the valve stem

11/16/2009 10:48:19 AM