This is the *OFFICIAL* "arghx is busy trying to find a 50 page answer for this" thread.

when a thread just needs a simple answer or explanation, arghx is here with a book about reasons.

some example (just from the past few days ive noticed):

http://brentroad.com/message_topic.aspx?topic=550676&page=1#12372193

Quote :

"On cars that use a pulsewidth modulated solenoid valve like that for idle control, surging can be the result of too much bypass air entering the system due to the adjustment of the throttlebody screws. On many cars there is usually an air bleed screw and a stop screw of some sort for the butterflies (Civic included). Too much air through these and the IAC will overcompensate under some conditions, causing a sticking or surging idle. On Hondas equipped with a chipped ECU (such as Hondata), idle surging/hunting can be fixed by decreasing the idle air control valve duty cycle in the ECU itself. I've done it before on those applications with some success (it was a D16Y8 on a 98 civic EX with an OBD 1 conversion and Hondata S300). Of course that doesn't help a stock vehicle. You really should just do the idle adjustment procedure in the factory service manual. The ones I'm posting here are for 96+ but it's basically the same thing. I've used the very first one here (for the US spec Y7 motor in my friend's 96 LX), but I am not sure what motor the VX came with and thus what throttlebody it had. I'm guessing the Y7 procedure would probably work. If there's nothing else going wrong (MAP sensor or a mechanical problem), setting the idle speed properly with the adjuster screw will have the idle air control valve operating within the range it designed for. "

http://brentroad.com/message_topic.aspx?topic=551211&page=1#12395486

Quote :

"As far as "redline" vs "max rpms" : If you consider the "redline" to be literally where the red line is on the tach, it does not always mean it is exactly at the rev limiter. For example: the V6/GT Mitsubishi Eclipse has a 6000 rpm "redline" on the tach but a 6200 rpm rev limiter. If you are using the term "redline" to essentially mean the same as "rev limiter," then it may seem like a pointless/dumb distinction. For the Rx-8, the rev limiter is I believe 9000 rpm, meaning you would want to shift before the needle physically crosses the red line on the tach. You can reflash the ECU to raise it of course (Racing Beat PCM flash goes up to 9300), allowing the needle the physically go past the red line on the tach without hitting fuel cut. I've driven a completely stock Rx-8 once and it falls off pretty hard after 8500, so you might as well shift before you get to the "redline," in both the literal sense of the tachometer and the sense of the rev limiter. [Edited on December 9, 2008 at 11:38 AM. Reason : the anarchy of language] "

Quote :

""

This whole thread
http://brentroad.com/message_topic.aspx?topic=499682

12/11/2008 11:40:58 PM

MAI LIFT KIT IS SAGGING A BIT. CAN ANYONE HELP ME!



[Edited on December 13, 2008 at 1:02 PM. Reason : psi]

12/12/2008 12:03:12 AM

12/12/2008 8:22:30 AM

I think my air idle control valve is FUCKED. Shit's been horrible (on occasion) recently. 500rpms at idle makes me feel like I'm riding the raging bull machine at a bar

12/12/2008 1:11:58 PM

Quote :

" CUT AND PASTE "

12/12/2008 1:18:15 PM

^^

Welcome to one of \-/ondas biggest flaws. My civic IACV is wonky as well

12/12/2008 1:32:13 PM

Guilty as charged.

12/12/2008 1:43:50 PM

how hard is it to swap out these bad boys, and are they $texas, or $rhode island?

12/12/2008 1:56:08 PM

on the s2k or do you still have the teg?

12/12/2008 2:45:25 PM

The Teg!

S2000 is flawless

12/12/2008 3:26:58 PM

bttt..

my vtak kicked in.. what do i do

12/12/2008 6:12:57 PM

Quote :

"how hard is it to swap out these bad boys, and are they $texas, or $rhode island?"

if it's anything like my accord, it has coolant lines running into/out of it. it's expensive for one, but it's also a pain to get to. very little room to maneuver. other than that, it's easy. also the gasket is only sold by honda AFAIK (locally, unless it's a honda mechanic).

[Edited on December 12, 2008 at 7:09 PM. Reason : eh]

12/12/2008 7:08:38 PM

^^^ does it just idle low on deceleration sometimes or is it a constant thing? I would try fiddling with the air bleed screw (don't know where it is on the B series throttlebody but I know there is one) first before you go replacing the IACV. Loosen it a half turn, rev it/drive it around and see if it improves on decel, repeat if it still does it. The idea is to keep adding extra air through that screw (in stages) up to the point where the idle starts sticking/not dropping quickly on decel. At that point you would leave the screw alone or tighten it up slightly (to prevent the idle from sticking now) and then leave it be.

Otherwise, wouldn't it be possible to clean it by removing it, spraying it with some carb cleaner, and supplying 12 volts across the terminals (use a cordless drill 14V battery or something) multiple times? never done it on a civic IACV

just an idea before you spend $Texas on a new IACV. that process has worked for me on civics and rx-7's before. and yeah that was probably a 50 page response.

12/13/2008 8:43:34 AM