So I put everything together to see if I can get my KA-T to start so intially it cranks but it wont start and I pretty much floods the engine with gas . So long story short after doing some trouble shooting I check my injectors and the bottom o rings slid off so i put some new ones on they stop leaking but again the car will crank but it wont start. In my intial check ups I checked the following:

- Spark Plugs: They are still good and are sparking so that lets me know the distributor is functional (I need some spark plugs that run at a lower temp range but I think it wouldnt prevent it from starting)
- Fuel Pump is priming and seems to be working
- Starter: I benched started the starter from the car and works well

Conclusions of what I think it could be:

- The fact that there is lots of lots of gas left in the car I have let it dry at days at a time before starting it I guess I am still not doing a good job of airing the gas out. While testing the starter I had the injectors disconnected and the motor did start and run till it combusted whatever gas was left in the car.

- Fuel pressure regulator: I blocked the 4 vacuum lines that come up from under the intake and I think the FPR gets vacuum there and I am not sure if its not getting a good vacuum source as a result of me capping them. (Other then FPR the BOV, Brake booster pump and intake are the only other things that would need a vacuum source right? I capped the EGR system so hopefully that should be it)

- I installed a N60 MAF: I followed the therad on KA-T I pretty much wired up everything but the green and yellow wires (maybe due to me wiring it wrong it wont start? i have heard it will run however it will run like shit)

- The Calum ECU I installed: I purchased it from the previous owner and plugged it in should have a burn for whatever is installed on that car, but I guess something could be preventing it from telling the car to start.

- No o2 sensor (I am waiting to run the wideband so again I heard that would prevent not prevent it from starting however the car would run like shit)

- The injectors: They are modified by the previous owner to make them high flow injectors they were working before but I guess that could be a potential reason why it wont start

- Something stupid as in I didnt tighten a ground down or didnt connect something right as I was reconnecting the harness.

- Timing (maybe the timing on the ECU is advanced...just thinking out loud and thought I would ask)

For clarification reasons this what I have installed on my car (The car was running before i pulled it)

Installed and replaced the following:

T3/T4 Turbo kit along with intercooler piping and a FMIC
JGS wastegate and blowoff valve
modified KA injectors to spray 600CC of fuel
Walboro 255 fuel pump
N60 MAF
Lightened Crank pully
replaced front crank seal and rear main seal
clutch flywheel short shifter
removed AC
blocked EGR tube
Calum ECU
altima fans (installed but not wired up)
Clutch flywheel

I know i listed a bunch of reasons but I was hoping you guys could give me some pointers as were to start.


Again I apperciate your help guys

[Edited on August 12, 2008 at 8:54 PM. Reason : ]

8/12/2008 8:42:47 PM

Quote :

"I guess I am still not doing a good job of airing the gas out."

are you pulling the plugs to let the cylinder air out?

Quote :

"I installed a N60 MAF: I followed the therad on KA-T I pretty much wired up everything but the green and yellow wires (maybe due to me wiring it wrong it wont start? i have heard it will run however it will run like shit)"

true. it will hold a rough idle if the car is running properly to begin with.

Quote :

"The injectors: They are modified by the previous owner to make them high flow injectors they were working before but I guess that could be a potential reason why it wont start"

that's most likely the issue. sounds to me like this was a failed project car you bought from somebody else. there's a reason why they gave up on it if this is the case. i suggest match + gas. j/k. i do think 600cc injectors are a bit much. i would think you'd need something along the line of 450cc injectors with a pair of secondaries.



[Edited on August 12, 2008 at 9:25 PM. Reason : -]

8/12/2008 9:03:45 PM

yeah, pull plugs, replace plugs to be safe and try again

and do what ^ says

8/12/2008 9:11:14 PM

holy crap. you're running 600cc injectors.

8/12/2008 9:30:13 PM

what you could try to get it to fire and to definitely find out if it's a too much raw fuel issue is to pull the fuel injection fuse and try to start it. right after the engine starts to turn over, reinstall the fuse.

8/12/2008 10:00:34 PM

I purchased the kit was off of a kid. Everything else I bought/modified the car on my own, as far as airing them out I am pulling the plug letting it air dry as well as sucking gas out.

As far at the injectors are concerned that is how we got it to start last time was pulling the plug to the injectors and it combusted whatever fuel was left in the motor.

Talked to a bunch of nissan guys (I could be looking down the wrong road) but they said the injectors are fine since i am running a bigger turbo we will see. Looks Like I need to focus on the injectors before anything else

[Edited on August 12, 2008 at 10:50 PM. Reason : ]

8/12/2008 10:49:23 PM

Quote :

"- Fuel pressure regulator: I blocked the 4 vacuum lines that come up from under the intake and I think the FPR gets vacuum there and I am not sure if its not getting a good vacuum source as a result of me capping them. (Other then FPR the BOV, Brake booster pump and intake are the only other things that would need a vacuum source right? I capped the EGR system so hopefully that should be it)"

i stopped reading here. where is the fpr located? stock setup? does the system have a return line? i'm betting your problem lies here. you're either building too much pressure and the injectors are still leaking, or it's not building enough and fuel is just flowing back through the return instead of spraying through the injectors as it should.

8/12/2008 10:53:57 PM

bigger turbo=t99ype R

[Edited on August 12, 2008 at 11:10 PM. Reason : ]

8/12/2008 11:07:01 PM

Regarding the timing, did you actually remove the distributor at any point? Did you mess with its wiring in any way, either at the distributor itself or on the engine harness somewhere before the signal gets to the ECU?

[Edited on August 13, 2008 at 1:30 AM. Reason : .]

8/13/2008 1:28:09 AM

if you are running a stock fuel pressure regulator, and a walbro 255, theres a good chance the diaphram is blown to pieces, you need a high flow regulator

[Edited on August 13, 2008 at 7:17 AM. Reason : you need to check your fuel pressure, first of all ]

8/13/2008 7:16:39 AM

I appercaite the responses.

As far as the FPR is concenred it is stock and the only thing that would have been altered is the vacuum source but from what it sounds like I will double check and start there

as far as the timing I didnt mess with the timing in anyway shape or form. I will have to plug it up to the computer and see if it reads anything.

Thanks guys

8/13/2008 8:10:51 AM

what year is it?

and the vacuum line off the FPR would starve it of fuel at higher rpms, not flood it at idle

[Edited on August 13, 2008 at 8:26 AM. Reason : ]

8/13/2008 8:26:19 AM

600cc isnt too big. I run 780cc on my 2.4L. Are they Deutschwerks? I assume the kid didn't drill out the injectors himself That might be causing some of the confusion here. For those that don't know, Deutschwerks injectors are stock injectors drilled out and flow tested to run at a certain cc/min.

Was the engine running perfectly fine before the turbo install?

8/13/2008 9:12:13 AM

sounds like he threw a bunch of used crap on there and has no diagnostic tools

8/13/2008 9:15:31 AM

damn you ngrs and your injectors.. turbo or whatever.. 600CC are dern big.

i mean, its all about tuning. but heck, get by with the minimal amount of stuff without over doing it.

i just read these were stock injectors modified to run that much CC. fair enough.

8/13/2008 9:33:03 AM

niggardly

8/13/2008 9:40:23 AM

The car was running before i pulled the engine.

the only thing used out of what I purchased were the:

ECU
Turbo
manifold
MAF
Injectors

I guess worst case scenario I could send the injectors to Deutschwerks and have them tested.

8/13/2008 10:52:03 AM

WHAT IS THE FUEL PRESSURE RUNNING?

8/13/2008 11:00:35 AM

where are the stock injectors?

8/13/2008 11:01:30 AM

IN MY FUCKIN ASS!!!!!!!!!11111111111

8/13/2008 11:35:11 AM

I will be checking apperciate it nygross......will keep yall posted

buttseks could I have my injectors back

8/13/2008 3:23:27 PM

Quote :

"damn you ngrs and your injectors.. turbo or whatever.. 600CC are dern big."

i agree, especially with the fact that it's running a large turbo. large turbo = no boost down low = rich as fuck. i still think a set of 450's and a pair of 180cc secondaries are the way to go.

8/13/2008 9:17:28 PM

in the mean time i am purchasing a adjustable High flow pressure regulator..since i do have a high flow pump and bigger injectors

8/14/2008 1:34:52 PM

the question is.... is the new maf calibrated to match the injectors???

8/14/2008 4:40:27 PM

oh lawd

8/14/2008 4:50:31 PM

^^no, that's not the question at all and has exactly nothing to do with the car at least starting.

^^^good, that's what my money is still on the problem being. i wouldn't waste time on anything else yet.

8/14/2008 6:16:12 PM

so metering wrong and sending twice as much fuel as necessary is a-o.k.

I'll keep this in mind for next time...

8/14/2008 7:45:51 PM

I don't pretend know much about KA engines, but what the heck does upgrading airflow sensor have to do directly with upgrading the injectors? The MAF calculates load and is an input into the ECU. Injector pulsewidth is an output from the ECU, and is calculated (depending on the ECU of course) through a lookup table based on airflow sensor voltage plus all your correction factors based on injector size, air temp, barometer, etc.

If you want to do it "properly" with upgraded injectors it is the lookup table that needs to be changed, not the calculated load, unless you have essentially maxed out your sensor. For example if you run a Power FC on an SR20 or CA18 you will see that they have several MAF presets for the sensors from a VG30, VH41 (Y33 Q45 motor), and RB25. Then you set the injector correction multiple and an injector deadtime setting for the larger injectors. It's the same on Hondata, AEM EMS, etc. The calculated load is the same, it is the given pulsewidth that changes.

Donkeybutt, is this an external adjustable fuel pressure regulator you are buying or just one that screws into the factory rail? If it is external (Aeromotive for example) you will need to run 6AN fuel lines, at least one from the return port of the rail and then one from the FPR to the return hardline on the car. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? You will have to plumb one in or screw one into the 1/8 NPT port in the aeromotive FPR. Then you need to set the base fuel pressure with the vacuum line disconnected or pressurize it with the car off by using a fuel pump diagnostic connector if those cars have one. Unless you have an easily adjustable ECU you should set it to stock, which is probably 43.5 or 47psi (check on that, but those are common numbers).

[Edited on August 15, 2008 at 2:09 AM. Reason : .]

8/15/2008 2:00:41 AM

I just looked up the Calum ECU and from what I can see, it is an eeprom ECU. Did you just buy somebody's used ECU and expect it to just run? Do you have a ROM burner to make changes to the ECU?

8/15/2008 2:17:39 AM

Actually i think q45,maximas and 240s all have the same maf calibration so never mind.. basically does the ecu know it has injectors that large then cause other wise its going to keep pulsing them as if they were stock.

( rather than reprogram the ecu some cars just swap to a re calibrated maf to match new injectors since they're a linear relation to each other and the ecu doesn't know the difference )



[Edited on August 15, 2008 at 6:48 AM. Reason : .]

8/15/2008 6:42:36 AM

As far as the ECU is conerned I purchased it from the guy who sold me the turbo kit so it is already pretuned for the setup I have it has a USB port to hook up to my laptop I just have to have the software on my laptop to communicate with the ECU.

AS far as the FPR is conerned I have purchased it but I heard there is one that can hook in line with the stock FPR just have to do some reasearch.

As far as the MAF is conerned I just need to make sure it wired right possibly clean which shouldnt take to long.

8/15/2008 9:02:41 AM

http://shopping.lightningmotorsports.com/customer/product.php?productid=57&cat=0&page=1

FPR regulator I am thinking about buying. I found it for 80 shipped barely used on some Nissan forums

8/15/2008 9:13:30 AM

I use the stock FPR on mine. Look for one and try it out

^^^the car should start without a MAFS. Expecting it to be driveable or rev past ~2000rpm, that's another story

8/15/2008 9:37:15 AM

Im going to guess something is wrong with the ignition system. Ive done a couple nissan swaps and the 02 harness is the same size and color as the harness going to the ignitor\distributor\or coil (i forgot which one), if u swap these. You will get something that looks like spark but really isnt, and you will fry your ECU.

I think your ignition circuit in the ecu is fried.

8/15/2008 1:01:05 PM

"pretuned." Maybe. I've had "pretuned" basemaps before for cars with supposedly similar setups that wouldn't even idle. What kind of datalogging capabilities does this have? You need to see if you are getting a tach signal. Datalog the motor while you are cranking it over and see if all the sensors are reading properly including the rpm signal and MAF reading. When I installed a Megasquirt on my old nonturbo rx-7 I wasn't getting a tach signal due to a bad ground, and I noticed this by monitoring the rpm signal on the ECU itself.

If you get that FPR, make sure you do not use the rising rate feature. I've never used a rising rate regulator, only an Aeromotive external 1:1 FPR, but you need to keep it as a 1:1 FPR and set the base pressure to factory spec, at least initially. If you use the rising rate capabilities it will just dump in more fuel. With a tuneable ECU and large injectors the rising rate capability will only cause problems with WOT tuning. Rising rate pressure regulators can certainly get the job done, but they are sort of an oldschool 90s thing before decent tuning software was available for a lot of cars.

[Edited on August 15, 2008 at 1:43 PM. Reason : .]

8/15/2008 1:42:51 PM