I know there was a parts store that recently made the parts diagrams available via the internets.... but I can't find them right now when I actually need them. Do any of you know where they are?


Also- does anyone have access to old freon & a way to accurately measure how much is being put in? I don't have access to the machine I thought I'd be able to use (to properly get out the old & put in the new).

7/2/2008 5:29:27 PM

zxappeal has a set of manifold gauges for R12 . generally speaking, you can't get real R12 without spending $Texas .

7/2/2008 5:32:02 PM

autozone.com has diagrams and walkthroughs for most cars.

repair info --> vehicle repair guides

7/2/2008 5:36:43 PM

you're gonnna have to get it the old freon sucked out.. you can probably get up with a shop and if they are nice they could do it for you, it honestly shouldnt cost you anything because they'll be sucking some freon from you also. unless you get them to recharge your AC system.

but im sure you can find out how many lbs your system takes. what kinda car?

7/2/2008 5:52:13 PM

it's for a 1995 Buick Regal

7/2/2008 6:00:51 PM

i thought 94+ was r134a?

7/2/2008 6:30:10 PM

that should be r134a. you might be able to get a shop to recover it for free. you definitely could if it was r12. i wouldn't bother if you're just trying to do a recharge though. leave what's there in unless you know for sure it's gotten moisture or some other contaminant in the system.

get up with keith, he can get you any diagrams you need from alldata. autozone.com does have some limited stuff.

i used to have a haynes manual for those cars, if i can find it you can have it.

Quote :

"zxappeal has a set of manifold gauges for R12"

so do i if anyone ever needs them.

[Edited on July 2, 2008 at 6:42 PM. Reason : .]

7/2/2008 6:39:24 PM

well, the compressor locked up, so moisture & contaminants are definitely present... there were a lot of metal shavings clogged up around the orifice tube.

and you guys are right... it's r134a- my step-dad told me the wrong thing... & I posted before checking it out myself. sorry

So- I dunno why he was so bugged out about the refilling-- hell I've done that before we've got the gauges and everything-- just no way to get the moisture out of the system.

7/2/2008 6:50:51 PM

okay, what you need is a vacuum pump then to pull any moisture out and ensure no leaks. check harbor freight, they have them cheap. did you flush the system any kind of way while it was open or what?

7/2/2008 7:05:03 PM

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96677

11 bucks, can't beat that!

7/2/2008 7:07:17 PM

jamie if you're going out to harbor freight let me know, i have stuff i need to return there. i'll drive or ride or whatever

7/2/2008 7:30:47 PM

matt-- I should know in about an hour if I need to go to HF-- so I'll let you know then!

7/3/2008 8:22:30 AM

let me know if they have any cheap gas grills.

7/3/2008 9:16:01 AM

^the local neighborhood should have cheap gas grills.

10 finger discounts. nah'mean
haha.

7/3/2008 9:39:42 AM

Screw that goddam cheap Harbor Freight thing...you need a good compressor that puts out a LOT of CFMs to get that thing to work halfway right. I have one.

I also have a REAL vacuum pump to pull a system down (NOT evacuate, mind you) prior to charging. And a set of R134 gages in the SuperDodge. The vac pump is at Frac's. You're free to use whatever you need to of mine. I think Matt has Frac's phone number in case you need to use the vac pump.

Pull vacuum on the system for at least an hour before you charge it.

Oh...and here's a bad thing: if the compressor locked up (prolly a V5 variable displacement one, I doubt it's an HR6), and metal shavings are in the system, the condenser (in front of the radiator) is most likely TOAST. Parallel-flow condensers (used on most 134 systems) have small passages, and they get blocked up QUICKLY. And there's no way in hell you can flush it all out.

[Edited on July 3, 2008 at 11:20 AM. Reason : no way, man. no way.]

7/3/2008 11:19:25 AM

^yep. i'm sure it's a sanden of some sort being that vintage gm, likely a v.

i dunno, i've used my little shit hf pump a couple of times successfully. hell, one of them was on that nightmare of a tahoe of tims. i know you recall that box of fun. knock on my head, it's still going strong about a year later. other time was on a benz i had. it was fine for a few months, then an o-ring went to leaking. no fault of the pumps, but i guess i might have picked up on it with a stronger pull.

i've got one of the big metal carry with a handle deals, but it's ancient and works about half the time. it's also of age that it only had r12/r22 ports, and my rigged up r134 coupler probably isn't totally leak free. i've been meaning to get another one, but i just can't see spending the $75-100 on one for the once in a blue moon i'm forced to mess with the awful systems.

7/3/2008 11:35:43 AM

well-- we managed to locate a real vac pump (guy said he paid something like $700 for it about 10 yrs ago )& do it reasonably right.... although didn't have it on there for a full hour-- more like 40 min.

Hopefully it was a good enough job to tie it over until my mom gets a new car-- but we'll just have to see.

7/3/2008 12:59:24 PM

Quote :

"And a set of R134 gages in the SuperDodge."

those guages aint worth a shit, they leak like a sieve

7/3/2008 1:37:53 PM

i just realized that ncsukat is kind of a cool girl

7/3/2008 1:46:38 PM

kind of

7/3/2008 2:04:42 PM

thaaaaanks

jk

7/3/2008 3:02:22 PM

Quote :

"those guages aint worth a shit, they leak like a sieve "

Negro please. They don't leak if you use the right can tap (do NOT use the fucking can piercing grip tap!) and screw everything together without boogering any o-rings. Which I bet you did.

7/3/2008 4:35:55 PM

^ the sight glass was blowing out shit all around it, i think the o-ring under it is dry rotted

7/3/2008 4:44:06 PM