1988 Rx-7 Turbo . Here's the situation. I was removing the sparkplugs from the vehicle and managed to round off the hex of the last one. Here's the complicating factor: I am using NGK irridium plugs that were not designed for the vehicle--they sit very close to the rotor housing, and there is a lip on the housing around the spark plug hole that the plug socket has to clear, requiring a VERY thin socket (almost sharp it's so thin). Well you can buy one for $80 or you can make your own with a grinding wheel. I made my own, it worked fine on three plugs, and on the last one it split and rounded off the hex of the plug. All the normal plug extraction methods won't work due to need for a thin socket, trust me I tried. I know this is hard to visualize but if you see the engine it will make a lot more sense.

What I need to do it seems is weld a 9/16" socket to the edge of the 13/16" plug hex, then turn it with a ratchet and it should come right out. This should only take a few minutes and won't require a nice welder or anything. Can anyone help me out? I'll buy you beer or dinner or something. The car is located in North Raleigh about 5 minutes from triangle town center.

Here are some admittedly crude pics:





[Edited on May 5, 2008 at 10:50 AM. Reason : pics]

5/5/2008 10:49:53 AM

you really need to learn to use the macro button on your camera

i can't tell what the hell i'm looking at

[Edited on May 5, 2008 at 11:01 AM. Reason : if i was closer i'd help.. surely someone else will though]

5/5/2008 10:59:40 AM

my camera sucks balls. it's some kind of $40 ebay DXG that I ganked from my little brother. There's not much to see anyway.

5/5/2008 11:01:09 AM

Jeepman has my welder at his house if it's driveable.

also, that will actually require a weld from someone that has half a clue what they're doing. most sockets are cheaply cast, and don't really like being welded. it might work, but there's a bigger chance it'll just break. it's also going to be next to impossible to get a full bead around it judging from the pic.

5/5/2008 11:11:36 AM

I was not suggesting that I do the welding. I've never welded a thing in my life. There is a good chance it can be welded strong enough-- there can't be more than like 15 foot lbs of torque on that plug.

And no the car isn't driveable. I have the transmission out right now so I can get a leak fixed on it (ugh more money pit bullshit). That's why I will pay gas money and buy a good dinner (not some applebees bullshit. Or I can get you some cases of beer, whatever you want that's reasonable) for anyone who can make a house call.

[Edited on May 5, 2008 at 11:46 AM. Reason : you should be able to get close to a full bead on it if we access it from the top and from below]

5/5/2008 11:44:48 AM

have you tried vicegrips on the upper part, not the now rounded off hex

5/5/2008 12:07:19 PM

i was just mentioning in general whoever does it will need at least some experience welding those two different metals together. even if it's done perfect, it's still not going to be a great weld. the problem lies with the cheapness and crap metal of most sockets.

if it's really not in there very tight, it might work. since you've already put enough pressure on it to round off the plug i've got my doubts though.

since it's not drivable, that mostly rules out my welder. it requires 240v and has a big ass bottle of shielding gas to be drug around with it.

i know dan has a little hobart 135 that runs on 120v and has flux core wire. something like that is going to be your best bet.

5/5/2008 12:20:31 PM

^^ Vice grips won't work, I tried. it's because the hex is so far into the rotor housing because it is a non-stock plug. You'd have to see it to fully understand.

^ Dan is MIA as usual and won't return my calls. I would take his ass out to J. Betsky's if he could help me out though.

5/5/2008 12:44:47 PM

Ok, just got off the phone with a friend who has one of those flux core wire feed welders. He's coming tomorrow, so I'll keep my fingers crossed.

5/5/2008 1:16:16 PM

yeah, i think dan is pretty busy with his new hobby (girlfriend). i haven't talked to him in a while either.

make sure you grind/sand/clean up the surfaces to be welded as much as possible. also, preheat and postheat the area. that'll give it the best chance of survival.

5/5/2008 1:26:30 PM

not trying to be a dick but why not get some pipe that'll fit over the ceramic on the plug and weld it onto the plug and a nut or something on to the other end? I just think the welding will go better that way than using some shit casted chrome plated socket.

(que ram calling me dumb now...)

5/5/2008 1:37:09 PM

why dont you get a luggnut extractor tool. it bites down on it as you put more torque. break off the tip to the plug. should get right off.

5/5/2008 1:46:03 PM

^ i don't think he has the room... keep in mind he broke the socket cause he had to file it down...

5/5/2008 1:47:50 PM

did you put anything on the plugs before you installed them the first time. reason i say to use the lug nut extractor is because you can use an air gun. i have a snap-on one i use all the time. the stud breaks before the teeth on the socket slip. good luck

5/5/2008 2:01:45 PM

^^^^no, that's actually a good idea. short lengths of small diameter mild steel pipe/tube aren't exactly readily available to everyone though. that's how i would do it personally. then either take a pipe wrench to it or weld a bolt/nut to the end. you could also flatten the end to get it with an adjustable wrench, vise grips, etc.

^air impact on a spark plug. brilliant!

5/5/2008 2:11:35 PM

i didnt say to use one. i said it was strong enough.

if he is got the "wrong plug" for the car stuck in its his own fault. im sure the plug has welded its self to the motor

[Edited on May 5, 2008 at 2:23 PM. Reason : lol]

5/5/2008 2:21:26 PM

general service announcement to anyone who can't figure out why using an impact gun on a spark plug is a bad idea... the possibility of stripping any thread ON YOUR FRIGGING ENGINE is something most people try to avoid.

its probably not really "wrong" i'm betting its a generic plug a couple steps colder than stock for running boost or something along those lines.

and i doubt he's dumb enough to use something with an incorrect thread

5/5/2008 2:25:45 PM

Quote :

"im sure the plug has welded its self to the motor"

clearly that is what has happened. Thank you for your insight.

5/5/2008 2:27:51 PM

Quote :

"if he is got the "wrong plug" for the car stuck in its his own fault. im sure the plug has welded its self to the motor"

how the fuck do you do it? i mean, i just can't understand how so much dumb shit comes from one person

did you read the fucking thread? do you understand the problem? why in the bloody fucking hell would it weld itself to the motor?

5/5/2008 2:27:52 PM

BAHAHAHA GOD

5/5/2008 2:31:07 PM

Quote :

"I am using NGK irridium plugs that were not designed for the vehicle"

not literly welding together. when two different types of metals get to gether. particles act against the mating surfaces, after severe galling and seizing, the part finally ceases to move, or "freezes up."

i can put it in easier terms for you if need be. but after all you go to an engineerering school you should be able to figure it out

5/5/2008 2:37:39 PM

oh i didnt mean wrong plug like vw plug compared to an 05+ mustang plug. i just meant not the right application plug. it was just a statement

5/5/2008 2:41:29 PM

I'm pretty certain in the other thread about the car he stated the plugs hadn't been in there long enough for what you're talking about to happen.

5/5/2008 3:11:18 PM

Just use some quick set epoxy. I've got enough here that I can show you how to do it and send enough with you. All you need is some West System 105 (Resin), 205 (Fast Hardener), and 404 (High Density Filler) and you'll be in business.
Call me if you want to swing by.

Trey
(919)-302-0880

5/5/2008 3:16:25 PM

dont fuck up and glue that shit on

5/5/2008 3:56:51 PM

Quote :

"Need help. Anybody got a welder?"

Quite a few of us have welders. But I am sure you alreadu knew that.

5/5/2008 6:37:10 PM

Quote :

"when two different types of metals get to gether. particles act against the mating surfaces, after severe galling and seizing, the part finally ceases to move, or "freezes up.""

are you positive you're not talking about galvanic corrosion and just made up some shit to sound smart

5/5/2008 8:00:58 PM

jesus christ slowtard, 99% of the time you post, I am like "thats the dumbest shit I've ever heard." Then you go and outdo yourself 2 days later.

5/5/2008 8:11:55 PM

The plugs have been in the engine for approximately 50 miles and had a light coat of anti seize. I had no problems removing the other 3 plugs, but shit hit the fan when my ghetto socket broke on this last one. The plugs themselves are designed for crotch rockets, B10EIX is the NGK part number specifically. There are some race plugs that work with a normal sized socket and do not have the same clearance issues, but they are $30 each (* 4 = $120). These were $7 or so (* 4 = $28).

Tomorrow I will go to the hardware store and look for pipe that is about the same size as the socket I was planning to weld to the plug. The socket I was planning to use is Craftsman but that doesn't necessarily mean it is good metal I suppose. I was not aware of how inferior the metal was for sockets in general, or that that was even an issue. Thanks for the input everyone. I have a propane torch that I can use to heat up the surface, and I will make sure I clean it thoroughly.

Quote :

"Just use some quick set epoxy. I've got enough here that I can show you how to do it and send enough with you. All you need is some West System 105 (Resin), 205 (Fast Hardener), and 404 (High Density Filler) and you'll be in business. Call me if you want to swing by. Trey (919)-302-0880"

Thanks for the input, but I trust a welder more at this point.

[Edited on May 5, 2008 at 8:57 PM. Reason : spark blowout over 15psi and I managed to get Advance to let me exchange them for free new ones]

5/5/2008 8:52:35 PM

I can cut another socket down for you on a lathe, It would probally be stronger than one with the grinder treatment.

5/5/2008 9:22:55 PM

get a forged impact socket and let ^ turn it down. you can get them dirt cheap at harbor freight on capital and it's like 30 seconds from his house.

as for the pipe, you might be able to find a sch. 40 black iron nipple at lowes/hd that would work. look in the gas pipe/fitting area. you could also try some of the local plumbing/mechanical supply houses. ihrie, wilkinson, noland, murray, etc.

i MIGHT have some 1/2" black iron pipe around you can cut a piece off of if you think it would work. i know i've got some 3/4", but it's probably too big (keep in mind how pipe is measured).

5/5/2008 9:39:25 PM

im sorry to hear about this.

y did u used different plugs? sounds like a pain in the ass for just a lil performance.

good luck.

5/5/2008 9:42:48 PM

A friend of mine hooked me up with the proper spark plug socket, the $80 one. He used to run these plugs on another car, but doesn't anymore, so has no need of it--and he owes me because I've hooked him up with some cheap parts in the past. I will bring the replacement sparkplug with me to the hardware store and find a suitable matching pipe and nut.

^ and I didn't get nicer plugs for like a 2hp gain. That's normally the only thing you get out of upgraded plugs, but in this case (and in the case of other heavily modified turbo vehicles), it's different. By running a colder plug, there is less surface area on the insulator, which increases heat dissipation and reduces the chance of detonation, which is important on a vehicle which runs exhaust temps in the 1200-1500 F range around town and 1600-1800 on a road course. The second main advantage is the irridium tip, which decreases the risk of fouling. Finally, these plugs have adjustable gap with a regular ground strap on the top. The stock plugs actually ground on the side of the electrode (you'd have to see them) and are not adjustable, with approximately .009 gap standard. I'm also getting spark blowout (even with the MSD and stock coils which are supposed to be good to 500whp) so I figured an irridium tip couldn't hurt spark delivery.

5/5/2008 10:39:17 PM

Quote :

"plugs hadn't been in there long enough "

i see where you are comming from but all it takes is one ride with a couple pounds of boost to do the job.

Quote :

"galvanic corrosion "

thanks

5/6/2008 1:38:29 PM

Got it.


[Edited on May 6, 2008 at 9:07 PM. Reason : link]

5/6/2008 9:05:49 PM

Well done man

5/6/2008 9:37:07 PM

nice

[Edited on May 6, 2008 at 9:38 PM. Reason : plumbing parts ftw! ]

5/6/2008 9:37:16 PM