OK, I need to run an OBDII diagnostic on my car but can't get it towed to a mechanic (and no, I can't drive it there either). Is there some way to use a voltmeter or two paper clips and bubblegum or some other MacGyver shit to get the codes? Are there any mechanics or auto stores that lead you borrow the palm readers? 1998 Ford Escort, standard OBDII 16-pin port.

9/1/2006 9:31:53 AM

Nobody lends those things out. No way to pull codes either. Not that I know of.

whassamatter? No money to pull to shop? Why no start?

9/1/2006 10:49:54 AM

If you're willing to go in to MacGyver shit, you can build something that will let you use the serial port on your computer as an OBD2 scanner. I think there's even some free software floating around to do this. I've seen a few websites that claim you can just wire it straight in to the serial port, but most of them recommend some little circuit based on the MAX232 serial interface chip.

9/1/2006 11:29:23 AM

cheap obdii code readers are like 60 bicks these days

9/1/2006 11:30:27 AM

i have a cheap obdii scanner that you can borrow if you come get it and bring it right back

9/1/2006 11:46:37 AM

wump...i dunno about all that stuff

zxappeal...no money, and no start

dannydigtl...will it work in my car? any charge? i live in Pittsboro...but I could leave my wife as collateral.

9/1/2006 12:08:17 PM

I know on my car you can pull codes without a reader, the ECU just has a diagnostic setting that you set it to so you can see codes. You can't clear them though. Not sure about other cars.

9/1/2006 5:30:37 PM

you can pull the codes from hondas with a paper clip

[Edited on September 1, 2006 at 5:38 PM. Reason : .]

9/1/2006 5:38:11 PM

pre OBD-II only.

9/1/2006 5:42:52 PM

nope.

9/2/2006 1:14:23 PM

did the harmonic balancer fall off the car

9/2/2006 7:02:34 PM

If it does, let me know how

9/3/2006 4:42:53 PM

Okay, so I got the codes...it tells me the following:

No response from the:

- catalyst monitor
- evaporative system monitor
- oxygen sensor monitor
- oxygen sensor heater monitor
- EGR monitor


Anybody have any idea what this means? Would this be the same part to replace, or are they all seperate? What kind of cost am I looking at (i.e. would it be worth it to keep the car)?

9/6/2006 10:52:36 PM

Ok, no "codes" were pulled. Is it possible that the above monitors are only enabled once the engine is running? Apparently the fact they are blinking means they haven't been tested, not that they are faulty. Looks like I am back to square one.

Would the fact that I can't pull codes signify a blown PCM?

9/6/2006 11:35:07 PM

what the fuck is it doing to start with?

9/7/2006 7:39:39 AM

it wont start. it will turn over, but it wont start. defintely wont start. yep. thats right.

9/7/2006 10:18:06 AM

fuel pressure, spark? checked anything yet?

[Edited on September 7, 2006 at 10:31 AM. Reason : and a regular code scanner on a no-start aint gonna tell you shit]

9/7/2006 10:30:42 AM

^what he said. no fuel pressure, no spark, STILL no error code.

9/7/2006 12:12:43 PM

with my experience with those cars, i would check for fuel pressure first, either the pump has shit the bed, or it was close to it and blew the fuse as it was shitting the bed, and possibly screwed up the relay, its never one problem, always cascading failures on those damn things

9/7/2006 9:10:56 PM

i can hear the whirring noise of the fuel pump. the shut-off switch wasn't tripped. tomorrow i'm going to disconnect the injectors to see if they are squirting. it has spark...i think. i checked it once but ill check that again tomorrow.

9/7/2006 11:13:39 PM

I'm just curious...timing belt?

9/7/2006 11:26:13 PM

OK, some back history on the car issue. I already described this in another thread but here goes again. 1998 Ford Escort ~171,000 miles. Blew the alternator. Replaced alternator and serpentine belt using a rebuilt alternator. That one got me about a mile away then quit. For some reason the car sounded like it was pulling 3500 rpms sitting in my front yard, but I drove it anyways (why the fuck not, I could use the exercise ). It killed the battery and melted the Audio and Interior light fuses under the dash when it went. I got a new battery and put another alternator on it. I checked all other fuses and wires that I could with a voltmeter. I tested the starter. I am getting about 13 volts coming from the battery, at the alternator and at the injectors. I am getting ample power to all fuse boxes. It kind of sounds like it's misfiring when I try to start but it isn't. By this I thought it could be the timing belt, but I had that replaced in June. The car turns over but just won't start.

Tomorrow first I'm gonna check for spark then for gas. I don't wanna catch anything on fire. Is there some way to test for spark than disconnecting the spark cables and arcing to the engine block? I set a wrench across the dist. box and it threw it off, but the cables could be bad. I also need to check the spark plugs I guess. I don't know why I didn't do it before. I may have, I can't remember. Maybe I should just kick the fucking car. OH well. Enough rambling. If anyone out there has a stroke of genius then pass some ideas my way. thanks.

9/7/2006 11:36:52 PM

You still need to check the goddamn timing belt, just to eliminate it as a possibility.

9/7/2006 11:41:07 PM

lol u tell'um

9/7/2006 11:58:26 PM

mkay...how do i check the timing belt?

9/8/2006 12:12:26 AM