99 Ford Explorer, 130k, oil changed every ~4-5k, AUTOMATIC

great condition except lately when I turn the key it starts up fine for about 3 seconds and then after the initial revving of the engine it stalls.

I have to start it, rev it, shift it into neutral while reving, then shift it into drive/reverse and take off. It is ok once I get it into drive.

The other day though I got it into drive and was going, but whenever I stopped it stalled and I had to go through the process again.

Other times it just starts up fine... no trouble at all

So i think because it is good one day and a pain the next that it could be a fluid needing refilled or something bc if it was mechanical then it wouldn't be so inconsistent...

But I don't know jack, so any insight would be helpful.

7/29/2006 1:25:51 PM

Sounds like it might be a sensor (MAF/O2) problem to me if when it is at idle it dies.

7/29/2006 1:27:36 PM

could be it.. the check engine light is on one day and off the next also.

How much for a fix? any idea?

7/29/2006 1:30:05 PM

maybe it's the idle air control solenoid.

If you're getting a check engine light, you need to have the error codes pulled.

Your issue could be anything from the bad IAC I just mentioned to the mass airflow sensor to a stuck EGR valve. And several others.

You really need trouble codes to be able to tell shit.

7/29/2006 1:46:05 PM

Yeah, go to autozone and get the codes pulled for free. Still probably a bad MAF, O2, or IACV...I believe you can just clean them off with pure electronics alcohol (or carb cleaner, but that may leave residue)

7/29/2006 2:03:23 PM

Well same day I posted this, my gf's dad who refurbs classic cars tells me to open the gas tank lid then close it before i try starting it. Now I just nodded my head and thought he was crazy. But sure enough, next time I tried starting it I opened the gas cap then put it back in. I've done it the past 3 days and have not had a problem....




I still think it is coincidence... and that something was just dirty on the sensors and got washed off somehow. I laughed though.

8/1/2006 6:46:58 PM

well a loose gas cap will make it throw a code, but I don't know if you need to check it every single time you start the car

8/1/2006 10:50:53 PM

I agree....
And yet, tomorrow when i walk outside to my car.... Guess what I'll do

8/1/2006 11:48:57 PM

i had a friend with the same issue on her accord, except they told her it was her fuel relay



perhaps somehow too much pressure can build in the system and cause the problem and all youve gotta do every now and then is crack the cap open to release it...


weirdness.

8/2/2006 7:10:58 AM

IAC

8/2/2006 8:48:35 AM

if its a 4.0, take the top plastic cover off to expose the iac, take the two bolts out and replace it, they arent expensive, and are a known problem on those, it will act flaky for a long time before it completely fails

8/2/2006 8:59:22 AM

^Trying that right now... It's being a real bitch and I'm late for work.

9/2/2006 10:24:25 AM

So I removed the plastice cover, Now I assume the IAC is the cylinder in the middle?
Circle it in MS Paint if you have too... I can't get this out of the driveway.

9/2/2006 11:14:02 AM

Oh and the check engine light has been off for a month or so now... So I'm not sure if the codes would show anything right now, but I can't get it to AZ if it won't run either...

[Edited on September 2, 2006 at 11:20 AM. Reason : d]

9/2/2006 11:19:10 AM

Yeah thats a IAC valve in the center, you can take it off and clean it or buy a new one for bout 40 bucks.

9/2/2006 11:46:16 AM

the same thing happened to my car once
its a vacuum hose thats loose
at least that is what happened to my 2000 explorer
check them all make sure they are nice and tight.
check for holes by getting some throttle body cleaner spray and spraying around while the car is idleing
if you hear it rev then you found the leak.

[Edited on September 2, 2006 at 12:58 PM. Reason : that IAC thing is a good bit of information in case i ever have problems with my exploder]

9/2/2006 12:53:59 PM

I checked everything on it as far as air intake, throttle plates, etc.. Took it too a garage and told them to make sure it was the IAC, the guy says he "tapped on it" and that got it working. He said it could just be getting stuck now and then. Unfortunately he called my parents at work as the secondary contact since I was in class and she OK'd a $220 replacement of it. Retail at Autozone is 74.99, does this seem like a fair price for removing 2 bolts from the IAC at the center & top of the engine, puttin on the new one, and replacing the 2 bolts? My parents did say they would pay though

10/31/2006 4:29:39 PM

thats a damn rip off and a half, especially since i told you what was wrong with it 2 months ago

10/31/2006 6:28:36 PM

Good call... At least i'm not paying for it.

11/1/2006 12:21:30 PM

I had the exact same issue with my car, on saturday I took the IAC valve off of my mustang, cleaned it out with carb cleaner, put it back on and it has worked fine since

11/1/2006 1:17:38 PM