Does anyone have experience with wiring on a 1986 Toyota Truck with the 22RE? I need some help with getting turn signals, reverse lights and horn to work. The guy that had it before me liked to cut wires. Also, my truck will run fine sometimes but then others it will turn over but not run. Think it might be a clogged fuel filter?? It seems it might only do it after it gets rained on or washed. I don't know. Another problem is brakes...replaced the master cylinder and brake booster because the guy I got it from told me that's what somebody told him was the problem. But pedal still goes to the floor.

5/21/2006 11:06:41 PM

zxappeal

5/21/2006 11:46:09 PM

So did you bleed your brakes? Bench bleed the master? Does the pedal go to the floot by itself? Or just when you push it?

Turning over, not cranking problem...bet money on a fuel pump relay. I've seen instances when humidity affected a relay's functioning properly.

5/22/2006 12:03:04 AM

get the book, follow the diagram. its really pretty simple. btw that motor shoudl be trouble free forever! we cant seem to blow them up.

5/23/2006 5:53:15 PM

Yea...I didn't bleed the master cylinder before I put it on. I wil try that b/c I have pressure when the truck is off and then once I turn it on I loose pressure. I was just concerned that I may have a bad pair of wheel cylinders in the rear.

How do I check the relay? Thanks for the help. Sorry for the delayed reply.

5/25/2006 5:25:50 PM

The easiest way to check the relay is to do one of two things. The first is the easiest and most obvious: swap it with a known good one. The way 'Yota relays are, you can often pull something like your AC relay and swap it with your fuel pump relay. Just make sure they have the same part number if you do that. If you don't already have a known good relay, then scrap this idea. Most parts places will NOT let you return anything electrical that's been installed. For all they know, you might have plugged it into something that runs 110v house current and melted the field coil.

The next thing to try is to probe the relay socket and make sure you even have current there.
You can even use a jumper wire to jump the fuel pump conductors in the socket to see if you get power at the pump. You'll also need to verify that you have a good signal from the ECM to the relay trigger terminal. Keep in mind that the trigger won't turn on except for about ten seconds after you turn the key on or when the ECM sees a rotating signal from the distributor.

5/25/2006 7:31:47 PM

i have the diagrams, but the toyota diagrams include a lot of systems and they are on several pages, i tried to cut and paste into paint, but it was hard to read, if you need me to , i can just print out whatever you need and you can swing by sometime and pick it up. the tail, turn, horn, brake, and cruise control circuits are all on one diagram, the ecm is another huge one by itself

5/25/2006 8:58:19 PM

Ok. I bought a new relay and still have a problem. It seems that the fuel pump runs when the key is in the start position but not the on position b/c I don't hear come on until the key is in the start position. Also, the truck will continue to run if I bump the key to start. Does anyone have any time to help a fellow out and come look at this? I haven't had a chance to check the brakes but from what I can tell I think there still might be an issue. Do I need to set the pedal height as stated in the repair manual? What about checking the wheel cylinders on the drums?

5/27/2006 9:03:15 PM

does the rest of the truck (electrical, radio, blower, etc) run when the key is in the ON position? If not it's probably your ignition switch.

5/27/2006 10:52:42 PM

Yea man. Everything works with the ignition. I was thinking it might be the ignition, but that made me rule it out.

5/28/2006 12:27:28 AM

ok, heres the deal, you have two sets of run contacts in that switch, check the 15 amp efi fuse to make sure you have power there in the run position, if not, check the wire at the ignition switch that is black with a red tracer, it should have current in the on position, if not you have a faulty switch, if the fuse has power in the run position, then you shouldn't be having these problems, but if everything checks ok to this point, get back to me

5/28/2006 7:31:48 AM

Do you know where I could get a legend for the fuses? Mine doesn't have one on the cover anymore for some reason. Under the hood or the kickpanel. I was wandering if it was something like that. A guy on nc4x4.com told me to jump the fuel pump so it would stay on all the time so I could make sure it was an electrical issue.

5/28/2006 7:52:45 PM

and which relay did you replace? the main efi relay in the fuse box, or the fuel pump relay behind the passenger kickpanel by the pcm?

5/29/2006 8:35:06 AM

I replaced the EFI Main Relay. Apparently from that diagram there is a 10A fuse there to that I need to check.

5/29/2006 9:45:08 AM

There is something behind the passenger kickpanel by the pcm like what's on the driver's side kickpanel? I guess I will check that to.

5/29/2006 9:47:31 AM

yes, that is the actual fuel pump relay, it has two circuits, one that sends power to the pump in cranking, and on ein run, sounds like that where your problem is, or maybe between there and the switch

5/29/2006 2:02:44 PM

Do you have the Diagram for the pod under the hood? Is there anything behind the glovebox? I am going to try all this on Sunday. Thanks for all the help.

6/1/2006 8:45:44 PM

the fuel pump relay is behind the passeger kick panel beside the pcm

6/1/2006 9:02:56 PM

pm zxappeal for my number (i won't have internet of my own again until next week sometime). i've done this swap into a 4 runner. it's actually pretty simple if you've done it. i beat my head on the wall many a night getting mine to crank. there's alot of the factory circuits you can eliminate/simplify to make things easier.

6/1/2006 10:21:11 PM

nevermind, i just noticed you already have the re and need help with other wiring... if you need any help motor wiring related, let me know.

6/1/2006 10:22:26 PM

that engine was a stock option that year, wiring whouldn't be an issue, he's just chasing gremlins

6/1/2006 10:31:21 PM

Hey Ivan I lost your number. Maybe it's on PM somewhere around here.

6/1/2006 10:39:57 PM

Alright. I checked behind the passenger side kickpanel and all I found was the engine control module. I didn't find any fuses. Are you sure about that fuse placement?

6/2/2006 10:58:27 PM

its not a fuse, its a relay, above and to the left of the pcm

6/3/2006 8:53:58 AM

Dude I didn't see any fuses or relays. I called Fred Anderson and the guy there said the relay was under the hood. But I don't have a legend telling me what is what. Do you have the legend for the one under the hood like the one you had for the one in the left kickpanel?

6/3/2006 10:56:25 AM

Quote :

"that engine was a stock option that year"

as was the r...

6/3/2006 3:05:36 PM

as was the re-t

[Edited on June 3, 2006 at 3:37 PM. Reason : i think]

6/3/2006 3:37:03 PM

check on the passeger side inner fender then, it will probably be near the firewall, but i'm about 99% sure its under the dash by the kickpanel on the passenger side near the pcm though, its definately not in the underhood fuse block, its on a connector by itself







[Edited on June 3, 2006 at 6:49 PM. Reason : its called a circuit opening relay, what engine did the truck originally have in it?]

6/3/2006 6:31:26 PM

I just looked harder around the pcm and found the circuit open relay tucked up in the fender. Is this what you were talking about?

6/3/2006 7:59:24 PM

thats the one

[Edited on June 3, 2006 at 10:22 PM. Reason : blah]

6/3/2006 10:21:23 PM

Cool. I guess I will go to advance tomorrow and see if they have one. Then I can get on to the drums and the rest of the electrical stuff. The diagrams came through alright. I will let you know how it goes.

6/3/2006 10:24:18 PM

how many terminals did it have?

one comes from the efi main relay, hot when the ignition is on, one goes to the fuel pump, one comes from the start position on the ignition switch, and there is one or two grounds depending on if there are four or five prongs



[Edited on June 3, 2006 at 10:29 PM. Reason : blah]

6/3/2006 10:27:03 PM

Keep that oil engine up, that damned thing has a timing chain in it and it goes easy if you let your oil sit low

6/4/2006 10:30:27 AM

It had five. Yea I have that schematic in the repair manuel. Advance didn't have one so I guess I am going to have to go to the dealer. I worked on the drum brakes today. Somebody put the adjuster on backwards on the right side. Other than that everything looked okay. I still don't have much pedal with the truck off. It should get rock hard like any other car right? That's as far as I got today. More to come later.

6/4/2006 8:14:28 PM

get that damn thing running yet?

6/7/2006 4:01:06 PM

This shit is getting frustrating. I am waiting on the Circuit Open Relay. It should be hear Thursday. I got a new front E-Brake cable so I now that works. But. I still don't have brakes. I borrowed my friend's mityvac to bleed the whole system out. I have air in the rear apparently and I don't know where it is coming from. My rear shoes are adjusted correctly and my wheel cylinders looked fine when I worked on the rear brakes last weekend. Somebody told me to check the proportional valve. I thought I knew what I was doing, but I guess I don't. I need another set of eyes to look this system over. 69 want to lend a hand?

6/12/2006 7:13:33 PM

Oh yea. I need somebody to weld some things for me.

6/13/2006 8:18:32 AM

i might could take a look at it sometime later this week maybe thursday or friday after five, shoot me a pm with your phone number and we'll figure out a good time

6/13/2006 8:36:02 AM

I apparently have something shorting out that Circuit Open relay. New master cylinder and still no breaks.

6/18/2006 5:09:20 PM

Something is causing the Circuit Open Relay to get hot. Idk what the problem is. I am 99% sure I need a new proportional valve. I jacked my truck up and I have more back brakes than front. Any thoughts?

6/18/2006 9:19:06 PM

i think you have a bad ground and the relay is over heating. Also, try taking the proportional valve apart and cleaning it up. Another thing that would help is bleeding all the air out of the brake lines. Sounds like you have a ton of air in the lines.

6/19/2006 11:30:02 PM

have you driven it yet to see if the brakes lock up and the fuel pump bursts into flames?


btw, don't stop by the gas station on old stage and atlantic after 10, that shit is ghetto as hell, i tucked my glock in the back of my pants just to go in and buy ciggarettes and a gatorade, crackheads everywhere

6/20/2006 5:14:29 PM

Thanks man for the help. Yea I think the brake problem was attributed to the proportioning valve and a lot of air. The bad ground on the relay fixed the no running problem. I look forward to fixing the wiring on this thing. It is gonna be a project and a half. Naw I haven't driven it yet. Maybe tomorrow I can get over there.

6/21/2006 8:47:54 AM

Replaced the oil pan gasket tonight. Hopefully no more oil leaks. Still have to figure out why the Transfer Case is leaking. Haven't worked on it in a week and when I opened the hood I saw that the Master Cylinder brake level was very low. 69 did we not fill it back up? Idk.

6/27/2006 12:23:20 AM

^ i was damn surprised we got any pressure on the brakes as much as those lines had been pieced together, check the little tube from the resevoir to the master cylinder for leaks, it looked kinda sketch that night, if not then you should see a puddle on the ground somewhere if that much ran out

6/27/2006 10:14:39 AM

Well it has rained so much looking for a puddle would be impossible. I wander if it is leaking around the resevoir.

6/27/2006 6:50:48 PM

spray it down with brake cleaner, fill it up, and check it in a couple days

6/28/2006 8:39:14 AM

Well took it to Harris Lake today and put about 100 miles on it. Drives pretty good. Valves make a bit of noise or something tapping the valve cover. Other than that...brakes work fine. No more oil leaks. Gotta get the wiring straightened out and a muffler on it. Finally coming together.

7/1/2006 9:51:53 PM

lifter tick?

7/2/2006 7:01:23 AM

I am not sure. It only does it when you get on it or let off but if the throttle stays in a general position while driving the ticking isn't there. Of course, I am limited to hearing without a muffler.

7/6/2006 7:29:38 AM