It's that time of year when my CP23-II needs the bottom done. She stays in her slip in Oriental year-round, and hasn't had the bottom done in something like 4 years. And it's nicely fouled.What are your preferences for bottom paint and painting, and do you recommend barrier coating first?
4/8/2006 12:49:42 PM
4/8/2006 1:58:49 PM
LAWL
4/8/2006 2:34:36 PM
well i am of the opinion that if the bottom looks like it might need paint, i would just pass and look for a cleaner bottom. If thats not an option, use as many barriers as possible. Beyond that, i have not a clue. I can fix glass, but I have never painted it, and I dunno much about it. I would guess that any reputable boat yard could point you in the right direction.
4/8/2006 4:53:55 PM
Stays in the slip?shit.scrape the shit out of it, get the barnicles off.sand it down all the way (I used to turn into a smurf when I helped dad sand the shit out of his blue-bottomed parker 25) wear proper maskthen any run-of-the-mill copper bottom paint will work. An old salt's trick is to add a whole spice bottle of cayenne pepper to the paint before you put it on. For some reason, barnicles hate the shit.
4/8/2006 6:09:17 PM
Really. Cayenne pepper. That's damn interesting.Question...I don't know what kind of condition the bottom's going to be in, and whether or not there are going to be any blisters (and I damn sure hope not). You ever used an epoxy barrier coat underneath the ablative coat?Number two...I'd ideally like something I don't have to haul and paint EVERY YEAR, though I will if I have to. That's why I was thinking of one of the high-dolla dual-biocide paints with something like 70% copper or whatnot.At 180 dolla a gallon, one would wonder if it's worth it as opposed to one of the cheaper ones.
4/8/2006 6:22:47 PM
you're gonna get what you pay for, remember that.that being said, the quality and the durability of the finish is going to be only as good as the prep work before you even put spraygun/roller to the bottom.I don't know if I'd put on an epoxy barrier cote or not.
4/9/2006 9:21:08 AM
my experience with epoxy based paints has never been good. There are so many variations in the glass and epoxy from boat to boat, then variations in paint, then varying quality of prep work, its just to many things to go wrong.
4/9/2006 10:36:11 AM
As far as prep work...I do as good as possible. If there's one thing I am anal about, it's paint prep.Been painting for about 18 years... Thanks fer the info, fellas.
4/9/2006 1:13:43 PM
once you pull it out, you prob already know this but its the easiest way to get alot of the gunk and barnices off is just to pressure wash it.[Edited on April 9, 2006 at 1:58 PM. Reason : k]
4/9/2006 1:57:32 PM
If he has blisters than pressure washing it may not be the best because you can end up getting the water into the core material like that.Then you're mega-ultra-fucked.
4/10/2006 1:41:30 PM
No blisters as of three years ago. But she hasn't been hauled since being refitted after Isabelle (broke the forestay, tore the sprit offa the bow, trashed the 135 Genny; had Keith Scott of The Sailboat Company fix her).Anyway, I'm hoping to go down on Thursday and take her over to Sailcraft Service on Whittaker Creek and have her hauled and blocked up on the yard.
4/10/2006 3:13:50 PM
x[Edited on April 10, 2006 at 3:23 PM. Reason : x]
4/10/2006 3:22:52 PM
I'd love to go down and see oriental again
4/10/2006 9:38:54 PM
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/boa/149539846.html
4/10/2006 9:39:44 PM
where at whittaker creek are you docked?
4/10/2006 9:42:00 PM
cayenne peppers are some weak shizzzz[Edited on April 10, 2006 at 9:42 PM. Reason : lol barnacles]
4/10/2006 9:42:05 PM
4/10/2006 10:08:36 PM
dude if you want some help, let me know. I love Oriental, and I could bring the Nacra20 down there and go blasting around in the Neuse-Juice.
4/11/2006 9:32:57 AM
I've been usuing the paint that flakes off after a season or two
4/11/2006 11:12:00 AM
i have used the petite 1 part epoxy for years without any problems, it doesnt require mixing shit, and it holds up well in salt and freshwater, you can get the base in a lot of colors, then you just add biocide or the non slip addittive, etc. for the specific area you want to use it on. if i remeber right they have a below water line primer you use first.http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.aspthey also have good blister repair kits[Edited on April 11, 2006 at 1:25 PM. Reason : link]
4/11/2006 1:23:20 PM
pettit, thats the name i was trying to think of. I have used that stuff with mixed success on wood boats, it bonded to epoxy in some places, didnt in others, and took forever to harden. However the places it actually bonded and it seems to be decent. I think it goes bad quickly, i vaguely remember having problems with older cans, and started buying it from stores with higher turnover.
4/11/2006 1:53:12 PM
you can buy hardener, which it says is requiered for temps less than 80 degrees, i highly reccomend the bonding primer. the topside paint is really great stuff, it doesnt fade in the sun at all, and mildew doesnt stick to it
4/11/2006 2:17:32 PM
EhhI get wary when you say you don't have to mix it.Never had a good experience with those.Awgrip or vc17 if you want a slick bottomjust be prepared to go down and scrub alot.
4/11/2006 2:26:07 PM
Bottom is done with Pettit Trinidad SR hard antifouling paint.Sailcraft Service off of Whitaker Creek did it. Charged 761 dolla to haul and pressure wash the hull, acid wash the deck/topside, and prep and paint the bottom with two coats of Trinidad Red. That also includes 8 days of lay time in the yard. I went down and buffed out the hull. Now I need to do the topside and paint all the no-skid areas with a pretty topside color.Next will be the brightwork. Any recommendations as to favorite varnishes/urethanes/clears for teak? I've been using Cetol, but I don't like it...it makes the wood look too brown (has pigments and uv protectants in it).One thing I'm thinking about is using an automotive grade clearcoat (like my beloved Sherwin Williams CC639 Glamour Clear). Yes or no?
5/8/2006 5:17:03 PM
west marines spar varnish, same shit as the name brand (which escapes me), but a few bucks cheaper. resists sun very nicely.
5/8/2006 7:14:28 PM
Thanks, man.Have you still got yer boat?
5/8/2006 7:59:11 PM
http://www.mavawreck.com/albums/My-boat/000_0619_001.jpghttp://www.mavawreck.com/albums/My-boat/boat_2.jpghttp://www.mavawreck.com/albums/topsailbeach/014_11A.jpg
5/9/2006 6:21:47 AM
I have a house in Oriental. Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrr!!!! Let's go night sailing bitches. Next full moon. Yar?
5/9/2006 11:30:02 AM
Muagan, definitely bring the Nacra. Those fuggers are FAST.
5/9/2006 11:45:14 AM
Oriental party!!! WOOT WOOOOT!!!!
5/9/2006 11:54:43 AM
5/9/2006 3:56:32 PM
For real. Have your boat pulled before the next full moon. We'll work on it by day and get it ready for a night sail. No shit.
5/9/2006 9:35:42 PM
Not a whole whole lot to do. Gotta unstep the mast and run new wiring for the masthead light. The power panel is kinda fucked up too, so I need to scrutinize that as well.I'm thinking about putting the VHF antenna on the mast, but I've got a Windex there already, so I don't know exactly how I'd go about doing it.
5/9/2006 9:39:36 PM
Get lot's of beer and a house for the weekend. We'll figure it out.
5/9/2006 9:45:44 PM
zx: I'm sure they make brakets for windex+vhf mounting. A lot of lead-haulers have their VHF and windex up there. You could get one of those windex arms that stick the thing off the front of the mast. Don't put it behind the mast (unless you have a square top sail) because the vortex tip effect will screw up its reading.
5/10/2006 9:40:35 AM
windex makes a wind vane that fits over the vhf antenna. I bought it for my boat, pretty simple installationhttp://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/27246/0/0/windex/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0[Edited on May 13, 2006 at 10:40 AM. Reason : link]
5/13/2006 10:39:04 AM