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stopdropnrol
All American
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got what i thought was a hot shit radiator, lifetime warranty but i can't find any documents for it since i bought the thing 2 yrs ago. it's leaking right along the side where the tanks meet the core. stop leak doesn't get to it and i've tried some liquid solder too. my jeep doesn't get close to overheating but when i park and return there's a good sized puddle. the radiator is all metal but it's aluminum, is there anyway to repair it?

[Edited on March 24, 2006 at 11:43 AM. Reason : .]

3/24/2006 11:39:24 AM

optmusprimer
All American
30318 Posts
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heres a novel idea- why dont you call a radiatior shop

3/24/2006 12:19:23 PM

stopdropnrol
All American
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oh that was helpful. shops say i'm looking at $200+ to repair it which is more than i paid for the damn thing to begin with. anybody got info/know how that actually helps me?

3/24/2006 12:29:50 PM

State409c
Suspended
19558 Posts
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WHY WOULD WE

KNOW MORE THAN A RADIATOR SHOP

ABOUT RADIATORS

3/24/2006 12:35:08 PM

stopdropnrol
All American
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bc a radiator shop wants $. the guy said if it's the gasket it'll be 90$ not including the labor to take out. i can take the thing out myself and what gasket do u know that cost 90$?!?

3/24/2006 12:38:50 PM

optmusprimer
All American
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youre ignorance begets your failure

whos next?

3/24/2006 12:40:25 PM

stopdropnrol
All American
3908 Posts
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ok let's limit the respones to ones that progress me towards my goal of not having a leaking radiator...

3/24/2006 12:43:52 PM

toyotafj40s
All American
8649 Posts
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radiatorbarn.com

3/24/2006 12:45:16 PM

zxappeal
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You need to know how the tanks are attached to the core. Are they furnace brazed/soldered? Or are there bent tabs that hold the tank to the core?

Bottom line is, aluminum does not solder or weld very well at all, especially if it's in the very slightest bit dirty.

It's also very difficult to solder, though it can be done with the correct rods. Heat control is a big issue here.

If it's the second type, every one of them damn tabs has to be bent, the tank and core mating surfaces cleaned well, and resealed with a good gasket material.

My advice? Junk the goddam thing and get you a regular replacement from Performance Radiator or Lake Shore.

3/24/2006 12:49:20 PM

stopdropnrol
All American
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thank you

3/24/2006 12:50:59 PM

BigBlueRam
All American
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yep, i would just replace it also. generally not worth the effort to repair/patch one. careful with the stop leak, that crap will block up passages it's not supposed to.

3/24/2006 2:12:58 PM

tripleD4u
All American
6247 Posts
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i had an old 89 f150 with the 300 straight six in it it had lil leak in the bottom from rock i think i put one can blk pepper in it and it fixed it for about 10k miles till i fliped it

3/24/2006 8:27:48 PM

gk2004
All American
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Quote :
"Bottom line is, aluminum does not solder or weld very well at all, especially if it's in the very slightest bit dirty.
"


Well said. If you pull it and drain it real good, I will talke a shot @ welding it for ya.

3/24/2006 9:09:00 PM

smoothcrim
Universal Magnetic!
18966 Posts
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you can get a replacement radiator for $100, swap it yourself. do the hoses, cap, and t-stat while you're at it

3/25/2006 3:00:32 AM

69
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15861 Posts
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there really is no way to relaibly fix an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks, but thats the whole reason behind them ,they are cheap, so put a new one in there, and get a new cap and thermostat, reason #1 and 2 they usually fail.

3/25/2006 11:57:00 AM

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