BEFORE:





[Edited on February 15, 2005 at 11:36 PM. Reason : pics]

2/15/2005 11:32:59 PM

update




[Edited on February 15, 2005 at 11:39 PM. Reason : passenger side door and quarter update]

2/15/2005 11:34:47 PM

lovely rustbucket ya got there.

2/16/2005 12:00:13 AM

sweet

2/16/2005 12:00:47 AM

lookin good

2/16/2005 12:58:33 AM

its a fast rustbucket...

2/16/2005 8:09:19 AM

^fast?? yeah, i guess it depends on how many bitches he has pushing it.

2/16/2005 9:43:58 AM

its a quote from spy novel that I read 2 years ago. Was pretaining to a hydojet boat that was disguised as a rusty old cargo ship that was equiped with missles. Part of a secret mission to steal some sort of golden budda statue that had maps of hidden oil reserves under tibet. Plot was iffy but was a cool book.

2/16/2005 10:00:53 AM

you should polish the whole thing

2/16/2005 11:49:57 AM

yeah we're getting there.

2/16/2005 12:33:14 PM

for real.

polish then clearcoat.

2/16/2005 12:38:18 PM

He made a little progress, the entire rear quarter is sanded now and the missing area you see isn't actually rusted away but where some rusted metal was cut out years ago. The rust isnt as bad as you might think.





[Edited on February 18, 2005 at 10:12 PM. Reason : I am sanding the trunk tomorrow! ]

2/18/2005 10:10:37 PM

well, some one has to say it,


i thank we can thank this progress to his suspension.

[Edited on February 18, 2005 at 11:06 PM. Reason : think, thank, same differance.]

2/18/2005 11:06:24 PM

Trunk's stripped. (Thank you Tal-strip II) Look I found some red paint, and part of the original pinstripe. Now the most complex part of the project is more visible- yes that is daylight showing through into the trunk and yes that part of the quarterpanel is only attached at one side.

2/22/2005 8:28:47 AM

^good work as long as you think you know what you are doing because that's all that matters.

2/22/2005 5:50:52 PM

Damn Joel ......New motor and body work. Glad your fixing her up. What color are you going to paint it? Dave

2/22/2005 6:08:27 PM

its going to be painted primer, get it?

now only the roof left to strip, and some little hand sanding shit, then resand all the bare metal again and everything from the doors back will be ready for spraying

oh yeah and I have to fix the flinstone quarters too, then I can spray

[Edited on February 24, 2005 at 12:19 AM. Reason : gg me]

2/24/2005 12:18:07 AM

not a great picture, but you can see the red paint dust all over the floor

2/24/2005 1:46:32 AM

Since then, the roof has been stripped (only one layer of paint and then the primer underneath it) but still needs a good sanding. Also all the rust/old bondo/fliberglass mess has been cut out of the LH 1/4panel and I have made sure I have the materials to patch it up. I am using a heavy expanded metal grate that will be trimmed according to a template made from the panel on the other side. Then at least one layer of fiberglass mat will be applied to the grate and then the whole thing will be mudded in with kitty hair for strength. The top layer of filler shouldnt be very thick, just enough to smooth out, and will be regular plastic bondo filler. I have to patch up a few small trunk holes as well. The 10 year plan (maybe 5) will include new all metal repairs to both the quarterpanels and the trunk floor but I am running out of time and need to get the car sprayed. I took the last two days off because the weather and I was tired from running other errands all day but now it is 46 degrees, I am sick a hell and I have to get to work on it.

3/2/2005 9:43:20 AM

Lookin' damn good - I'm jealous.

Mike

3/2/2005 11:34:59 AM

In the end it really wont look very different at all. Just another muscle car in primer. I wouldnt be jealous, even wearing a respirator isnt keeping me from finding big reddish-blackish globs of snot on the tissue every time I blow my nose. Plus I have one hell of a cold.
I am taking a break now from doing some rust repair in the trunk where I cut some stuff out a while ago and I have been working the inside of the trunk lid (its on sawhorses), sanding the rust that tries to bubble up around where the weatherstripping hits. When I head back outside I am going to install the power trunk release and the lock cylinder, I will have to do some minimal trimming to make it fit as this latch/solenoid apparantly came off an older F-body?

3/2/2005 12:53:18 PM

I am considering going with satin black instead of the full primer look:

Primer:


Satin Black:

3/2/2005 1:17:38 PM

why are you leaving it in primer? Saving some money to have a quality paint job done in the future? My guess is you just like the look.

3/2/2005 1:32:53 PM

yeah something like that

3/2/2005 1:48:19 PM

dark grey or black hmmm

3/2/2005 8:51:15 PM

toyota seqouia silverstone metallic!!

3/2/2005 9:02:17 PM

is that $2.50 a can?

3/2/2005 9:16:16 PM

fuck if i know. i didnt pay for it.

3/2/2005 9:19:05 PM

go w/ black

3/2/2005 10:41:53 PM

hjoowwwwwwwww doo youtr get thiss fdibveerglas ofgf yuoer hasndfsassssss

3/3/2005 10:38:30 PM

haha bondo fingers! gojo painters formula

3/3/2005 11:02:15 PM

got it with acetone

the fuckin guy on the box wasnt wearing gloves and had his hands all in the shit, then I figured well Ill be okay... but Ill have some paint thinner ready just in case... apparantly paint thinner cures the resin instantly on your hands

anyway the trunk floor and inner wheelhouse is now fixed and hopefully I will make some real progress on the quarterpanel tomorrow.

also it is looking more and more like the car will end up satin black. I just dont know if I should double my paint budget and primer the car underneath the black. I could also upgrade to a smoother spraying brand name of paint for about $1 more a can...

3/3/2005 11:28:56 PM

you aren't using a spray can are you?

3/4/2005 8:27:23 AM

yessir

3/4/2005 9:56:48 AM

it'd be cheaper and look alot better (smoother, less lines) to buy a $12 sprayer at walmart and spray rustoleum protective enamel primer ($7.00 a quart) w/ an air compressor. I sprayed dupont epoxy primer or my cutlass and it turned out really well, but that stuff is expensive. The rustoleum sprays just as well though.

3/4/2005 10:12:06 AM

how should i thin it out

and i dont know if my compressor can handle it
http://www.thewolfweb.com/message_topic.aspx?topic=270447

[Edited on March 4, 2005 at 10:24 AM. Reason : f]

3/4/2005 10:23:01 AM

thin it w/ acetone, i beleive its 4:1 (paint:acetone). I beleive if you can keep 40 PSI on it you'll be ok. It is walmart, if it doesn't work, take it back!

3/4/2005 10:36:34 AM

werd. might have to try that

3/4/2005 11:32:36 AM

You'll be better thinning with Stoddard solvent (mineral spirits). You'll get a much better mix, and flowout and leveling will be much better. It won't flash off as quickly, and if you have ANYTHING left underneath, acetone may cause it to lift, and that won't be pretty. If it flashes too fast, your job will not look very even, but stripey and shitty (Been there, done that, with flat black on a '58 Buick).

BTW, go to the automotive section at Walmart (or the tool section at Lowe's or Home Depot) and look for a good cheap DeVilbiss or Campbell-Hausfeld spray gun. You can get 'em for around 35-50 bucks. Or check out Harbor Freight or Northern. They all work much better than a fucking spray can.

3/4/2005 11:38:03 AM

Good tips there Dan Ill head to wallyworld and such in a little while.

Here are the pictures of the glory holes I patched last night, and whats going on with the car today.



I cut out the really shitty rust and riveted in a peice of that alum. gutter guard that the ricers love to put all over their cars, then worked over top of that. It may not look great, but its better than leaving it open. Ill load the bottom of the repair with either spray on bedliner shit or rubberized undercoating to prevent further mishaps. In a few years it will all be cut out and fresh replacement panels will be welded in but for now this will do the trick.

[Edited on March 4, 2005 at 11:52 AM. Reason : ok]

3/4/2005 11:45:11 AM

You got one of them 5hp oilless compressors, right? Smaller? Larger?

My old Craftsman handles a gun no problem. Just keep 'er regulated to 40psi, like tawaitt said...I keep wanting to say "TWAT" here...

3/4/2005 11:48:43 AM

I bought a $4 aerosol paint gun at Sherwin-Williams and used it for the actual paint on my car and it turned out perfect, not a drip and the gun didn't clog or spit

3/4/2005 11:52:35 AM

Should I get a nother small regulator and filter and install it after the compressors regulator then?

[Edited on March 4, 2005 at 11:55 AM. Reason : aerosol paint sprayer? sean plz explain]

[Edited on March 4, 2005 at 11:57 AM. Reason : nevermind figured out the regulator thing ]

3/4/2005 11:53:12 AM

I got a sprayer made for automotive paint. It's plastic and disposable, and it has a can of aerosol on the back. You put the paint in a bottle just like on a regular gun, and the aerosol works like compressor air and just forces the air out.

Worked really good for me, but you gotta be super patient.

3/4/2005 12:34:15 PM

^ i always have used acetone just b/c thats what rustoleum suggests. so u'd really get better results w/ mineral spirits?

3/4/2005 1:18:19 PM

Quote :

"^ i always have used acetone just b/c thats what rustoleum suggests. so u'd really get better results w/ mineral spirits?"

I am pretty curious about this too man, and the dilution ratio as well. I just happen to have a $20 walmart siphon sprayer now, and a quart of rustoleum semigloss enamel. Im not telling what color

3/4/2005 3:04:02 PM

3/4/2005 3:53:55 PM

Quote :

"hjoowwwwwwwww doo youtr get thiss fdibveerglas ofgf yuoer hasndfsassssss"

aint no ass like a dumbass.

3/4/2005 6:55:24 PM

I don't even touch 'glass without nitrile or vinyl gloves on. That shit doesn't even come off well with acetone.

tawaitt...are you SURE Rustoleum recommends thinning with acetone? Or just cleanup?

The reason i say mineral spirits is that acetone evaporates too quickly. Means it will dry fast and be somewhat less susceptible to runs, but I prefer the flowout that mineral spirits allows. The longer the flowout, the more uniform the finish can become with less chance of orange peel.

For regular Rustoleum, they recommend thinning with mineral spirits for brushing or rolling, and naptha for spraying. From their website.

Not a whole lot of difference between the two, but naptha has a faster evaporation rate. Neither has nearly any aromatic hydrocarbons in it. Yay for Google.

3/4/2005 10:45:53 PM

I cant sleep and apparantly want to write a novel about this shit so here it goes:

Good job on the googling there Dan. I think Ill just go with the mineral spirits since it seems pretty close to the naptha. I had another guy tell me he painted a van some 3 years ago with this rustoleum paint straight from the can, no cutter, with an electric sprayer of all thing, and it turned out great and still looks good. I plan on cutting it anyway. I am glad you guys mentioned this as I was kinda pissed about only being able to afford shitty spray can primer that wasnt gonna keep out water but now it looks like I will be able to protect the car a little better and get some color to it too, and a little (just a little) but of a nice finish on it. I am using a semi-gloss unless you guys convince me it is a poor choice. It will be nice to have something to wash bird shit off of for once. And, as much as I love primer, I admit that it kills me to see the look in someone's eyes when they see my beloved car for the first time and they think, "oh, its one of those old peice of shit primer cars" and "maybe soon he will buy a normal car like every other respectable young man". Yes, I admit it- the primered, work-in-progress look that I apparantly liked so much in high school dosen't really appeal to me anymore.

Another benefit to this rustoleum is I can get the same paint in aerosol cans too for little detail work and doorjambs and shit if I ever need it.

Here is the important question, how far do you think I can stretch a quart? I am not going for an all out paint job here, this is still a work in progress deal. Let's assume I put down two real good coats on the car, will I need 2 quarts, 3, more? Also I am thinking of just painting one general area at a time... for example, paint the trunk while it is still off the car, and paint both doors seperately from the quarters on each side and the roof area seperately.
I really am not looking forward to spending hours with a masking tape roll, can I just soap up the windows or something? lol

I had some trouble with running out of resin hardener today while glassing the quarterpanel, I got all the fiberglass cloth panels up onto the car but after an hour or so they hadnt really started to cure and harden like they should. If they arent cured to the touch in the morning what can I do to have them set up other than removing them and starting over? Spray them with hardener? Can you buy MEK-P at Lowe's? I did wear gloves today and it made a huge difference.

When I get the fiberglass work on the quarter patch area settled, I can begin filling it in with the regular bondo shit that I will need to use in order to smooth the repair out. Its probably going to take a couple layers, the hard part will be getting it thick enough (to cover the rivets used to hold the expanded metal grate to the quarterpanel) but not getting it so thick that the sidemarker dosent mount properly. Also I have a few little spots on the car that need some bondo as well for minor reasons. I am not even addressing any dents on the car at this time at all- don't have time. I may let them wait until I can pay a professional to do them or I have time to learn to do it myself. I have to rebuild the door hinges and adjust all the panels in front too at some point, and get the '70 fender on one side drilled so the emblems will match the '71 fender on the other. I already have all the brand new emblems I need, and the new trunk, door and hood bumpers and hinge pin/bushing kits and hood-cowl seal, and door handle and lock cylinder gaskets. I will have to do some filler work on the hood surface too before painting it, I would like it to be somewhat smooth this time.

I suppose I will repaint the hood stripes in satin white again after spraying the rest of the front to match- I am waiting untill the engine is back and in the car to start on the front end body work. Last time I taped them off by hand (very carefully) and then sprayed them with aerosol from NAPA, then when they came out a little funny looking I wet sanded them with like 2000 grit or something untill they were nice and uniform. Now that I think about it I need to fix the passenger side front fender eyebrow molding area and find a good molding to bolt on there. When I got that fender in the junkyard I didnt notice that the original had been molded into the rest of the fender after the owner of the car had a little accident. I managed to get the bondo mess off, and get most of the dent out but its not perfect, and not quite good enough to properly mount the eyebrow molding. Worst case scenario I will just mold it in again like they had it and then do the other fender to match.

Tomorrow's project will be removing the door panels to gain access to the door handles and lock cylinders so I can strip the old primer from behind them. I might not reinstall them until I spray the doors. Normally I wouldnt take them off, but just mask around them and go at it but they are a little loose anyhow and need to be tightened, which requires me to remove the door panel anyway. I also need to get the mirrors and stone sheild/headlight housings ready for paint, figure out how to properly get the passenger mirror to mount on the car in a more stable manner and finish getting the doors ready for paint. And do something about that uncured fibelglass resin mess. And roughly get at least some bondo on the quarters. And finish filling and smoothing the quarterpanel-to-roof seams. And finish sanding the roof and getting it and the areas around the front and rear winshields ready for paint. And go ahead and paint the driprail channels. And begin masking off stuff I dont want paint on. And I might as well detach the rear lamp harness and unbolt the rear bumper as an assembly so I wont have to mask it off. That reminds me I need to refinish the inside of the taillamp and reverse lamp housings, and clean and reseal the lenses (mightaswell get new bulbs too) and straighten the liscense plate bracket in the back. And get a new high beam bulb to match my other new one.

Also when the engine is done (middle/end of next week, knock on wood) I absolutely have to get it picked up, in the car, broken in, any bugs worked out and properly tuned as soon as humanly possible so I have transportation (this is my only car) to a new job that I hope to be starting the week after next. But I havent even bought the fluids I will need to get the motor job done yet... oh well

3/5/2005 5:45:26 AM